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Winter Project Lists

Tomster

Jedi Knight
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Well, as fall passes and winter approaches (weatherwise in our parts) I wonder what we all have for winter work lined up for our TR's? Of course we all finished up last winter's and this past summers work .... right?
 
Frame/floor pan stripping and repainting with POR15 or Eastwood.

After that remove replace the entire suspension system with powder coated parts and all new bushings.

Along with the suspension, a complete replacement of the entire brake system including hydraulics, calipers, rotors, drum, all steel and flex lines and convert to silicone fluid.

I'll also be replacing the front axles and hubs at that time.

That will complete the under body work for my lifetime.
 
This winter I want to replace all the front end suspension bushings, Along with a new sway bar. Then give the car a good front end alignment.

Also, I'm going to complete the Alternator change over.
I have the new Bocsh 55 amp. but have yet to install it.

I'm sure I can find many other things that could be replaced or rebuilt.
 
I'm pulling the head for a valve job, and while the head is in the shop I'll replace the driveshaft and rebuild the carb. Then it's top up driving for the rest of the winter.
 
eejay,

When you do, buy the Payem brand gasket set from LBC or Moss. That is the best gasket set for these cars. I just did my head and they are top quality. A few bucks more, but well worth it.
 
I haven't driven the thing in years -- but the project continues:
Frame is painted -- all the other body work is at the painter's now.
Motor is disassembled, awaiting the head back from the head man -- and a few other parts I need to buy.
Still need to clean/paint half of the front suspension.
Have all new (urethane) bushes for EVERYTHING and new springs all around.
I have to bring work to my guitar repair shop to do during the winter. The garage is just too dang cold and dark (Minnesota).
I hope to have the motor reassembled and all the remaining cleaning/painting done by the Spring thaw.
Then I can begin hanging stuff back on the frame.
I have this, sort of, goal of seeing it on the road before the snow flies in '08. I' will have a LOT to do next Summer to pull that off.
 
I am preparing to start this weekend by pulling the engine for a full rebuild and having the differential rebuilt.
While that is out, I am going to rebuild the front brakes and wheel bearings.
Also tidy up the engine compartment. Tying to decide if I want to paint it now or wait until I do the whole car, in a couple of years.
The paint is serviceable and these projects will have drained the till for awhile.
Unless there is old english white in spray cans? Anyone found some thing close?
 
I have all the parts for a total rebuild of the rear brakes. I am slightly worried about replacing the old wheel cylinders. Any advice removing them so I don't to damage the lines would be appreciated. Other than that, just fiddle with a small list of odds and ends.
 
Well around Houston, this time is really more the driving season than the project season, but since it is normally too hot to work in the garage during the summer, I doubt I'll be driving much. The to-do list is huge:

Restore surrey top, also thinking about old english white for the top with signal red on the car body.

See if I can resurrect the engine on my spare TR4. Currently needs carbs rebuilt, then undoing the stuff I did to it, like replace a frozen water pump.

Start pulling panels on the spare 4, see how bad the rot is - based on that decide to restore or part out.

Assuming the 4 is parts car bait, pull everything and restore the frame - then swap the frame on my running TR because it has a bit of PO accident damage.

That should keep me off the road for a year or two..

Randy
 
TR4 said:
I am slightly worried about replacing the old wheel cylinders. Any advice removing them so I don't to damage the lines would be appreciated.

Best thing is to use a brake line wrench so you reduce the change of rounding off the fittings on the lines - other than that I doubt you'll have a problem.

Randy
 
TR4nut said:
TR4 said:
I am slightly worried about replacing the old wheel cylinders. Any advice removing them so I don't to damage the lines would be appreciated.

Best thing is to use a brake line wrench so you reduce the change of rounding off the fittings on the lines - other than that I doubt you'll have a problem.

I agree with Randy on the line wrench. I would also spray the fitting, both the threads and where the hard line goes through it, with your favorite penetrating oil. You don't want the line rusted to the fitting so it twists and crushes when you turn the fitting with the wrench.

Good luck.

Matt
 
Wiring harness replacement (gasp)

And lots of dry-weather driving.

Tom
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I would also spray the fitting, both the threads and where the hard line goes through it, with your favorite penetrating oil. [/QUOTE]

Agreed. Do that several times a day for a week before you take it apart and you will be very happy with the results, especially if you buy the proper flare nut wrench.
 
TR4 said:
I am slightly worried about replacing the old wheel cylinders. Any advice removing them so I don't to damage the lines would be appreciated.
Just a thought, you might consider replacing the lines while you're in there. They don't last forever, and if the cylinders are shot, the lines might not be far behind.

I know, this smacks of shipwright's disease, but having a brake line fail is no fun on a car with single-circuit brakes.
 
NutmegCT said:
Wiring harness replacement (gasp)

And lots of dry-weather driving.

Tom

Hi Tom,

My 3A came to us rewired with a nice uprated harness. Trouble is that the DPO rewired the entire car using red wire. It works great but ... I'd rather have it correct.

So I just bit the bullet (pun intended) and purchased a complete new harness for this winter's project. I think it will be harder for me since I am basically starting over and can't match wire color to wire color - except the rear light that have red wires already!

I already added and alternator, a 6-circuit aux fuse panel, and headlight relays so I will have to wire around these additions.

I think that I might invest in one of the bullet crimping tools for the job.

Good luck and take pictures first!!!

PeterK
 
Same old plan : Drive it till it breaks, then fix it and drive some more ! It's always LBC weather around here, especially for a Stag.

With any luck, the "daily driver wanna be" will come home from the paint shop today. If the looseness in the RF wheel/steering isn't anything worse than worn shims in the inner tie rod, I'm still going to try to hop over to TRfest tomorrow and say Hi to a few friends.

But after that, I plan to pull the steering rack, replace the leaky PS hose, and try to put some feel back into the 'Novocain' steering along with new rack mounting bushings. New Cibie CSR headlights (with new wires & relays), B-post covers & lamps, some new wood for the center console, maybe some tunes. Oh yeah, need to fix the regulator for the driver's quarter window, so I'll probably change the panel at the same time ... the list just goes on and on. I keep hoping I'll stumble across the mechanical temperature gauge adapter that I know is around here someplace, but if not, I'll have to make another one.
 
My main project will be to take the empty side curtain frames and make them into something usable. I do plant to have work done on the transmission, but that will not be done by me I am afraid. I am happier tearing down a computer than a transmission. But in winter I also work on my HO slot cars and layout as a diversion when the garage and outdoors are freezing cold.
 
Well, all the frame work is done including suspension. The car's body work is all done and it is painted. All the interior leather work is done including the dash and all the gauges have been rebuilt by me. The rack and pinion steering conversion is done. I've got Herman's Toyota 5-speed conversion, and I installed the four pot Toyota calipers. Now the fun starts.

I have to rebuild the engine, and then I can assemble the whole car. Dan Master's harness should be here this week...another fun project. I have one more project that I'm also working on, and that's a dual master cylinder set-up for the brakes.

As you can see, I've got alot to do this winter, but it should go quickly, as it's mostly just assembly work, much less time consuming then the body work.

This certainly won't be a stock TR3. I hope I don't lose all of the character of the original. Hopefully I can get all of this done by the spring.
 
TR3driver said:
Same old plan : Drive it till it breaks, then fix it and drive some more !

That about sums up my entire TR3 restoration plan the last nine and a half years. Once I really started driving it I can't seem to get myself motivated enough to taking it all a-part. Then again it's probably the fear of dismantling it and not being able to find the time or funds to put it all back together again. Kind-a reminds me of the Humpty Dumpty story?

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