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Tips
Tips

Winter driving tips

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The worst thing I had happen was a windshield wiper arm had so much ice buildup under it that it flew off one night. I always carried an extra arm with a new blade on it, so just replaced it after chipping all the built up ice off. I really had no problems, but I was on stock size 155-80 Goodyear radials. Not the best autox tire, but with judicious throttle and gearbox useage my 2 GT's never bit me. Now when I was trying to get home one night and there was 6 ins of snow on the roads, I did get hung up a few times.
As said before, best thing to do is go to a huge open lot with no curbs or streetlights. Induce spins, slides, etc. Get used to the car and how it warns you. I honestly had no more trouble in the IN and NY winters than I did in my '88 Saab 900s. I routinely was in the Adirondacks and VT in the winter months. Washed the car all the time, esp the underside, though.
 
I am kinda forced to Drive the GT6, I really wish I had another option but due to hard times earlier this year the GT6 is my only car at the moment. I appreciate all the concern

I did Drive a 88 300zx for years (until someone rear ended me 2 summers ago and totaled it), it handled almost the same in the snow. What I have always done in the past is about 50 pounds of kitty litter over the rear wheels it helps a lot and I can use it on the ice of I get stuck.

Luckily the job I have if very flexible with my Hours, If I want to show up at noon because of there being less traffic they are OK with that (as long as I make up my hours later that day or week).
 
I think it helps to reduce tire pressure (within reason). This increases the size of the contact patch.

Hey Will, I'm in Bowie. The good thing about those snows last winter was that it was an easy decision to stay at home. It's the 3" - 7" ones that require real thought.
 
I think the other things you have to take into consideration are the abilities of other drivers in the snow and the effect of road salt on your car in the long term. Finally, if you do get into an accident, I am not sure what would happen in terms of getting the car fixed if you have historic car insurance and what the police would say if you have historic plates on the car. Be careful.

I completely understand your situation and I think everyone can pretty much say they have been there. I can. I also commend you for wanting to drive your Triumph. I think you would agree that you want to keep driving it on into your 30s and 40s. Maybe after a while you could buy a $500-$1000-$1500 clunker off of Craigslist that you can have for the winters and bad weather?

Good luck,

30-something Jeremy
 
I would suggest finding an empty parking lot, with a few inches of snow and practice controlling slides and spins. Driving in snow can be fun, if you know what to expect. A sliding car and panic can lead to big problems. Keeping the rev's low, staying out of 1st gear as much as possible (easier to spin your wheels in first), and giving yourself extra room between you and the car in front of you will also help. And don't forget to keep an eye on the cars behind you, especially when stopped. If you see someone bearing down on you, you just may have time to dive for the shoulder and get out of the way.
 
tdskip said:
JKB1957 said:
I would suggest finding an empty parking lot, with a few inches of snow and practice controlling slides and spins.
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Good idea.
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And if the Cops appear on the scene then you can practice synchronic drifting :banana:

Cheers
Chris
 
CinneaghTR said:
It was not too bad up my way just west of Baltimore this morning. Hope you enjoyed your drive!! :thumbsup:
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I am a little upset, we didn't get any here in Glen Burnie (just south of Baltimore) I was kinda looking forward to playing in a parking lot or two :devilgrin:

but I have not been having any problems on my drive back and forth to Bowie (17 Miles south one way)

Tanks again for the advice everyone.
 
I would like to second the caution about salt on the roads. Best to avoid it, if possible. Also, even when the roads are dry, there can be a lot of chemicals still on them, not to mention the gravel that some road crews use instead of salt. This is especially true of some new process being used here in Virginia where the highway department puts down five or six "lines" of chemicals on the roads before a snowfall. The stuff appears to dry completely, but apparently is activated when moisture hits it. Many of our roads are now "striped" in the winter.

I drive in the winter -- on dry roads -- every 15 days or so in order to warm up the engine (20 minutes minimum) and keep things lubricated. But, as the weather sometimes turns warm here in Virginia in the winter, I flush the insides of the fenders well with water when the temperature reaches aboout 50 degrees. Lots of water in order to really flush out the salt and not just "activate" it. Failing that, you can brush these areas or even wipe them. As they say, however, "rust never sleeps," and I suspect that the fight against road chemicals can only be partially won.

Bottom line: It is great to drive across snow-covered countryside, as long as the roads are clear and "dry."
 
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