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Window winder mechanism BJ7

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chicken

chicken

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Can anyone tell me if the window winder mechanism is a different length between the BJ7 & BJ8 ? My BJ7 has a small channel (4")on the bottom of the door glass that the mechaism fits into, however if you wind it down to low it drops out of this channel !!
Something aint right.

Rob
 
Sounds like the little bracket positioning the bottom stop rubber buffer is missing or maybe bent out of alignment so it can't stop the bottom limit of the glass. Also the small L shaped arm that limits the regulator arm maximum travel both up and down may be out of adjustment.
 
Rich
Is the bottom buffer stop bolted on right in the bottom of the door ? also i seem to be missing the L shaped stop brackets, any idea what length they are ?

It just seems like the short channel is not long enough to take the winder mechanism, I take it the windows come right down flush with the top of the door.

Rob
 
I'm not sure I'm following this exactly. If you are speaking of the metal piece Moss refers to as "buffer stop assembly". It can be repositioned along the bottom by pulling it off and moving it forward or back.
 
chicken said:
My BJ7 has a small channel (4")on the bottom of the door glass that the mechaism fits into, however if you wind it down to low it drops out of this channel !! Something aint right. Rob
Click to expand...

Hi Bob,
Your right, something ain't right.

The 4" channel is movable. It should be a tight press fit on the window frame. When in the correct position it will accommodate the roller when the window is in both the up and down set positions. If the roller is coming out in the down position, either the channel is in the wrong position or the bump stop is not making connection.

The bump stop is an L-bracket welded to the inside near the bottom of the door panel. It should have a U-shaped rubber stop, held in place with a cotter pin. It looks identical to the rubber stops used for the bonnet. Maybe the rubber is not large enough and not making contact with the 4" channel? If that is the case, you can try and bend the L bracket up a little (maybe it got bent down) or you can try and adjust the rubber bumper up by adding something in the slot of the rubber bumper to raise the bumper, then drill a new hole in the rubber if that position works, for the cotter pin.

Good luck and let us know what the solution was.
Cheers,
Roger
 
Roger

Sorted now, didn't realise channel section was moveable, of first inspection looked like it was welded on.
Do i need the winder limiters fitted that stop you winding to far up or down ?

Rob
 
chicken said:
Roger Sorted now, didn't realise channel section was moveable, of first inspection looked like it was welded on. Do i need the winder limiters fitted that stop you winding to far up or down ? Rob
Click to expand...

Hi Rob,
At first glance the channel does look like it is spot welded, good eye.

Yes you need to adjust the window limiter to stop the up travel. The lever has two bolts that get tighten when in the correct position. Here's a couple photos.

The rubber bump stop, stops the downward travel.

Good luck!
Roger
 
Well Rob, to add a bit more to your confusion... there is a difference between early BJ7 and late BJ7's. I discovered this in the same way we all "discover" many things about our treasured LBCs.
If you have an early BJ7 (I don't know the breakpoint for these differences), the arm that lifts the window up and down is relatively straight. The later version has a bend in it a few inches from where it fits into the channel that it slides in when raising/lowering the window. The bend helps relieve pressure from the slider. The earlier (which mine had) straight arm puts considerable pressure on the slider and can fail (guess why I know). I replaced mine with the later version and now the windows work great.
Another, early/late BJ7 difference can be seen on the upper edge of the window channel. The early channel is solid all the way up (that's the chromed portion of the channel). The later version of this channel has a notch cut out of it (same as a BJ8). The notch gets filled with a little rubber bumper that is attached with a machine screw. On the early BJ7, solid channel, the ENTIRE window and mechanism must be installed as a single unit... try doing that without breaking at least one of the little nylon channel guide!!
 
Roger

I don't have the window stops and guess they should be fitted to the BJ7, do you have a measurement for these and I can bend some up out of a piece of flat ?

Rob
 
chicken said:
Roger I don't have the window stops and guess they should be fitted to the BJ7, do you have a measurement for these and I can bend some up out of a piece of flat ? Rob
Click to expand...

Hi Rob,
I don't have any measurements, but I did take some photos for you. If you don't have one on your door, put it anywhere you like, where it will make contact with the channel when the window is in the final down position.
Cheers,
Roger
 
Roger

Thanks for the pictures, sorry what I meant to say was the measurements for the "window limiter" the "l" shaped bracket that stops the up travel.

Rob
 
chicken said:
Roger Thanks for the pictures, sorry what I meant to say was the measurements for the "window limiter" the "l" shaped bracket that stops the up travel. Rob
Click to expand...

Hi Rob,
I just put both my doors back together last night. I would have measured it for you. Maybe some here can do that. However, it's very easy to make your own. Get a flat metal rod at the hardware store, bend the L in the end. Hold it in place behind the sheet metal in the door where it will be mounted. Use a marker thru the two mounting hole areas onto the rod. Drill those two marks making them oblong for adjustment. Easy as pie.

Good luck,
Roger
 
I just stripped the innards from two very rusty BJ7 doors, glass is already gone but everything else is there. Need parts?
 
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