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TomFromStLouis

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Perhaps you can help diagnose what my BJ8 needs done to it.

I turn the key and the fuel pump makes pumping sounds. I conclude the battery is fine (which checks) and the fuel pump is fine. I turn the key further and I get an occasional rat-a-tat-tat sound, but the engine does not turn over. I seek the manual, which advises checking for a spark. In doing so, I learn that the solenoid button does not give the same effect as turning the key - no sounds at all. I leave the key turned and return to the engine bay and see smoke coming trailing out from the distributor. I do not know much about cars, but I immediately sense that this is not good. (I have the Pertronix ignition, not points).

I may have done something fresh or maybe the smoking from the distributor is the final stage of my original problem. What steps would you now recommend? Why doesn't the solenoid button work (it used to)? Please keep your instructions at an eighth grade level. Make that sixth grade.

ps - I doubt this is related, but the horn sounds very weak and feeble. It was like this last time I had it out. I am accepting suggestions on this issue as well.
 
A) never, ever leave the key on with aftermarket ignition without cranking or starting. But, you know that now.

The "rat-a-tat-tat" sound can be several things. Seized engine, or hydraulic lock, jamming starter and causing very high current, which breaks the contacts in the solenoid by dropping the battery voltage due to high current....but not likely.
Usually, a sound like that is caused by the highest normal draw in the vehicle (starter) finding a bad main power connection. This can be battery cable ends or battery posts corroded (you need to remove the cables one at a time can ream, re-install), bad cables (voltmeter connected at each end, placed where you can observe, crank, see what the drop is.....on 12V, 1/2 volt is still okay, (long ones can be higher), grounds corroded, battery flat enough that it operates fuel pump but not starter.

A) Check battery voltage at rest.
B) Same check while cranking. If below 9-10 volts, battery is dead , as in shot, or discharged, charge battery for proscribed time interval and re-test.
If A) and B) okay, load test each cable with voltmeter on each end.
C) Clean (ream) cable ends and battery posts.
You can do all of these rapidly without overheating anything.
You're down then to solenoid and starter.

Dave
 
first if the engine doesn't turn over its the starter it could be the connection on the starter cable i would chech that ,the dist has nothing to do with the motor turning over,if smoke is coming out it maybe a ground prob make sure all connections are tight
 
as far as the horn you can clean it there is an article on the web join the healey list the archives have article on it
 
I think the problem is the starter solenoid. The "rat-atat-tat" is the solenoid clicking but not engaging the starter. Could be just loose or dirty connections.
 
It could be a poor ground connection, or a poor connection in the cutoff switch in the trunk.

A member had a similar problem on a club outing yesterday. Turned out they had the wrong key in the ignition.
 
John, it doesn’t cease to surprise me how common it is to hear of an odd Healey experience that I would never have expected. The wrong key turned sufficiently in the Healey’s ignition switch to engage the solenoid to the point of clicking…but not activating the starter?

Tom, although the fuel pump clicks, the battery could be too low weak to turn the engine or sound the horn with enthusiasm. The horn, along with the starter, the two components that produces the largest electrical draws (remember, they gave it has its own 35 amp fuse) and will produce a weak sound if insufficient power is available.

Along with the battery, check the circuits leading to the starter solenoid. Do a drawdown test to make sure the connections and leads are functioning properly. If all tested circuits fall within specifications, I would take out the starter and check it separately.

Good luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Although I'm a TR 3 guy, your rat-a-tat reminded me of my car last weekend. Rat a tat from the key in ignition, very slow engine turn from the starter solenoid button. Turned out to be a low battery; the battery tender was faulty, not providing charge. Ten minutes on a battery charger did the trick. To me, your weak horn was a big hint. Best of luck from the 4 cylinder side!
 
Kevin, I am always amazed at how we ignore the obvious and look for bigger problems. Of course, the feeble horn indicates a low battery!
 
Hi again Tom. By now you should have either a brand new battery or a fully charged one, correct? If the problem is the same here's a little tip; move the ground cable off the switch (cut-off switch in trunk) and re-connect to the frame where the other side of the switch is connected, in effect bypassing the switch.
It's rare but the starter cable itself may be corroded as well.
Let us all know what you found or you can call me or Keith.
 
Also too, if you have another failed start attempt (carefully) touch all the connectors; e.g. the terminals on the solenoid and at the starter, etc. If any feel hot or even warm you have high resistance at that point.
 
Had same issue with my e-type.

good battery

good connections

TOC I believe said jump it..I did... started right up and 6 months later no issues???

Jammed starter???..who knows..mystery of british cars
 
I am still here. I appreciate all the feedback. I have not had a chance to get out and try some of these fixes. The consensus seems to be something electrical; I have had corrosion of connections before and checked the battery connections recently, but will look at all connections afresh. Last time I put the battery charger on it came back as fully charged, but I will revisit that treatment too. I like the voltmeter idea and need to buy one. I will post what I learn!
 
Jump it!!!

Pete
 
hate to say it why drive yourself crazy get a new selenoid and see what happens if not you can have the starter checked take it out and hot wire it to the battery
 
I put a new battery into my BT7 this summer. I just got it because it was getting old (7 years). It still worked good, so I thought. First time I have ever bought a new battery before the old one went and stranded me.

What a difference. Lots of problems seem to be fixed. I should have done it the summer before.
 
TomFromStLouis said:
Yes I did try to jump start it and there was no difference. Sometimes there is the rat-a-tat sound, sometimes no sound at all.
Click to expand...

You may not be aware of this Tom, but you can reach behind the solenoid and depress the button to activate the starter.
 
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