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Wifi/modem question

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I have lost track on where this is going...but here is what i did in my new house to get internet connection to the garage. Perhaps it will help...perhaps not.

If you are trying to split the ATT inbound signal into to modems, that will not work. They wont allow that.

It should go like this (The modem does have a built in router so they can be combined, I have separate ones as they are faster):

ATT MODEM ==> ROUTER ==>Computer
______________________==>Shared Printer
______________________==>Wireless
______________________==>Garage computer
______________________==>Etc

I have two wireless networks in my house. One secure for the family and one in the garage for friends that stop by to hangout.

The garage one is similar to what you want to do. I bought a box of CAT6 at Home Depot and have the tool to crimp ends on. It is putzy but not hard.

Once the run is complete and the ends attached, connect one end to your modem / router. the other end can now connect to your garage computer and all will work on the computer in the garage without any issues.

If you want a wireless set-up in your garage, buy a little router and split the long run so it can go to your garage computer and your garage wireless unit.

Remember, most wireless units need ot be "deployed" so you have to initially connect it direct to your computer to set it up.

Wireless signals are sketchy at best. Trying to push a home wireless signal that far will not work well IMHO.
 
DNK said:
500 feet at about10 cents a foot for raw wire.
Pricey.
Click to expand...

Like I said, aint happening. Question: If the stuff I have run out to the out building is the same stuff I have run underground coming in to my house, why can't I just use that and need cat6? In the end it's still coming in and going out on the same four strand type wire feeding my signals to begin with.
 
LOL, I guess I could have run that stuff out there three times. The wire I have was free.
 
dwalpole said:
You other option is to purchase a WiFi range extender which *might* push your signal far enough.
Click to expand...

Tried that, won't work. Problem is there is no "middle". The furthest point is the same as where the wifi can be hooked up. I'm sure if someone knew what they were doing there is a hack to extend range but that person isn't me. When I was in trade school, I had a buddy that built an "illegal" CB system. I want to say it was like 1000 watts or something crazy like that. He'd go through McDonalds drive through and key the mic next to his speaker causing feedback which would bleed into the order intercom system. You could always see the chick in the window rip her headset off from all the racket. IIRC he could talk over the PA system at Kmart and Walmart through his CB too.
 
kellysguy said:
Like I said, aint happening. Question: If the stuff I have run out to the out building is the same stuff I have run underground coming in to my house, why can't I just use that and need cat6? In the end it's still coming in and going out on the same four strand type wire feeding my signals to begin with.
Click to expand...

But the signal needs to pas their modem to ensure you have paid your bill (among other things).

I can see what you are trying to do, but that will not fly with any ISP...unless of course you buy two subscriptions.
 
OK, I'm gonna give it a shot
In you existing wire, How many bundled pairs and what are their colors billy?
 
DNK said:
OK, I'm gonna give it a shot
In you existing wire, How many bundled pairs and what are their colors billy?
Click to expand...

Four solid copper core wires: blue, blue/white; orange, orange/white; all copper shielded together then the black plastic insulation. I guess you would say all four are bundled together.
 
Sold wire.
Didn't they quit using that in the 60's???
As Randy says
You're F......
 
OK. So then we are on to going with a directional wifi antenna to essentially direct the entire beam to your workshop. Or, possibly, LAN over power lines setups, assuming that your workshop and house are serviced by the same breaker panel. But again none are exactly cheap.

The problem using the 4 strand wire that's already in the ground is going to be interference between the lines. The whole point of the 8 wire, twisted pairs is that they provide EMI (Electromagnetic Interference) shielding for each other which allows for the data rates we expect. Without the right wire you will be lucky to even see a connection, let alone get any data passed.

In any case you are loooking at about $100 solution on the cheap end.

This one would go into your laptop in the workshop and should help pickup your home wifi.
https://www.amazon.com/NextG-USB-Yagi-Range-antenna-2200mW/dp/B0044D7J1W/ref=cm_cr_dp_asin_lnk

This one would help establish LAN over power.
https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-over-POWER-Adapter-Pair/dp/B004C4XWN2

This one would push the signal from you house to the workshop.
https://www.amazon.com/TL-ANT2424B-...3220&sr=1-1&keywords=directional+wifi+antenna
 
dwalpole said:
The problem using the 4 strand wire that's already in the ground is going to be interference between the lines. The whole point of the 8 wire, twisted pairs is that they provide EMI (Electromagnetic Interference) shielding for each other which allows for the data rates we expect. Without the right wire you will be lucky to even see a connection, let alone get any data passed.
Click to expand...

Perfect. I wuz gonna send 'im down th' ol' IEEE 802.11x rabbit-hole next... :devilgrin:


And Billy; if you go with the Yagi, put it on the roof of the trailer under something like a Rubbermaid tub to weatherproof it.
 
dwalpole said:
The problem using the 4 strand wire that's already in the ground is going to be interference between the lines. Without the right wire you will be lucky to even see a connection, let alone get any data passed.

]
Click to expand...

I don't understand how I can't use it but that's the same exact type of wire that carries all of the signals to and from my house to my IPS. What am I missing?
 
Without getting to far into the CS and EE. The problem is how the signals are carried along the lines. The signal coming from you ISP is very different from the low voltage signals running along the LAN cable. The lan signal is optimized for speed and runs at low voltage and uses the twisted pairs to fight off bad signals generated by interference. I've even had problems with LAN cable and signal passage if the wiring sequence in the plug is off (same on both ends but off from what the spec calls for). The line from your ISP runs a difderent carrier signal which is more interference resistant. Too oversimplify it; it's like the difference between AM and FM they can do the same thing but provide different plusses and minuses (FM is clearer but has shorter transmit ranges).
 
O.K, that makes sense. If someone could now explain to me why I can't run two modems on the same line that would be great. I don't understand why it has to be theirs and I don't get how that supposed to insure I pay my bill. From what it sounds like, if that's the case, all anyone needs is a modem and they get free internet. I don't understand it.
 
kellysguy said:
O.K, that makes sense. If someone could now explain to me why I can't run two modems on the same line that would be great. I don't understand why it has to be theirs and I don't get how that supposed to insure I pay my bill. From what it sounds like, if that's the case, all anyone needs is a modem and they get free internet. I don't understand it.
Click to expand...

I think you just answered your own question... :smirk:
 
So I can go to walmart, buy a modem and get free high speed internet? I don't get it. Our bill got screwed up before, they thought we cancelled but didn't so our internet was down. They did that through the modem? There isn't another way to shut it off?
 
So, OK. If you go to ANYMART and buy a cable modem; you certainly can plug it in to the line coming from the street. The problems arise when your modem talks to the ISP's system. The ISP will ask your modem, to use the clubbing euphamism, "is it on the list?" What that really means is, is your modem registered with the ISP and is its MAC (Machine Address Code) address on file with the ISP. If your modem is not on file, you get no service. If it is on file then you are paying a bill through your ISP. The problem with runnning 2 modems is now you essentially need 2 accounts with the ISP, so you would be paying 2x the monthly fees.

Your modem's MAC address is like a fingerprint. Every network device has a unique MAC address it looks likes XX:XX:XX:XX:XX:XX (where X is hexadecimal(16), digits 0-9,A,B,C,D,E,F) giving 256^6 (280 trillion ish)possible devices worldwide.
 
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