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Whoops - Lucas?

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Jim_Newman

Jim_Newman

Jedi Hopeful
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Well the Prince of Darkness has struck and I need advice.
The car has been starting and running really well down here in Florida.
Yesterday as I was starting the motor, it cranked over once or twice then "suddenly" acted like the battery had no or very little charge. The engine would not turn over - just the familiar clicking from the starter. The lights are very weak as is the horn. I've searched a for bad connection but haven't found anything. The battery is fully charged.
I'm thinking maybe the voltage regulator has crapped out. What do you think?
As always, any advice or guidance greatly appreciated.
 
Well Jim, it still sounds like a battery problem to me ---Keoke
 
Have you checked the main shutoff switch? Have you sanded the battery terminals and the battery connections? I doubt it is the regulator? Can you swap the battery into another car? Or take it to a battery seller to get a load test?
 
How old is the battery? You're charger might show close to 12.0v, but you may not have enough cold cranking power.
 
Keoke et al
You were RIGHT (again).
The battery had been supplying juice for just over 8 years and I guess it had had enough. Even though it showed 12 volts at the terminals, it turns out that one or more cells were shot. Stuck in a new one today and she's back in business.
Thanks again.
Cheers all.
 
Keoke et al
You were RIGHT (again).
The battery had been supplying juice for just over 8 years :shocked:

Yep JIM, I guess it was tired alright---Keoke-- :laugh:
 
8 YEARS! Man - what was the brand? I want one!
Doug
 
Jim_Newman said:
Keoke et al
You were RIGHT (again).
The battery had been supplying juice for just over 8 years and I guess it had had enough. Even though it showed 12 volts at the terminals, it turns out that one or more cells were shot. Stuck in a new one today and she's back in business.
Thanks again.
Cheers all.
Click to expand...


Eight battery years is 120 people years.

A fully charged car battery should indicate about 13.2V with no load. Each of the 6 cells--which are connected in series--produces 2.2V. A battery tester puts a load on the battery--usually 100A or more--which gives a better indication. If you maintain a lot of cars--i.e. batteries--it would be worthwhile to have one (I don't, yet). Harbor Freight puts them on sale now and then (hmmmm ... haven't ordered anything in a while).
 
I really appreciate the followup of what the real problem was!
 
No offense to the original poster, but I always tell the smart alecs who make fun of Lucas electrics that more than half the problems with Lucas electrics were traced to poor maintenance or owner modifications of the electrical system. They were not perfect, but when properly maintained the old systems worked pretty well.
 
A couple of months ago, I watched a video and listed to the discussion contained therein on an Alvis, I think.
The presenter's feeling was with Lucas, manufaturer's looked at cost, first.
High-end cars bought "better" Lucas stuff than lower-end car manufacturers.
I have little or no issues with my Jag, he had none with his car, yet the further down the (original selling price) food chain you go, seems more problems ensue.
Previous owners?
Maybe.
Personally, connector quality plays more a part of Lucas failures than anything.

Of course, that's just an opinion from the trenches, having worked on them in shops for 40 years.

Dave
 
The Lucas electrical parts are good. Well at least the original Lucas parts. The issue is the system total full load amperage required is less then the maximum output amperage of the generator / alternator system. When the battery voltage becomes low under full load conditions the resistance then is high and the electrical component parts such as switches and etcetera become hot and fail. The switch failures and a dead battery are the main complaints with the Lucas electrics in the past.
 
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