T-Series Who can say what a new clutch will cost?

[jimmiekeyes]

My MGB (1980) is stuck because it needs a clutch repair.

Worst case scenario - What will it cost to install a new clutch.

I have source for the clutch at ~ $250.00. what other parts might I need and how much will a mechanic charge to install one? Am I getting into a black hole? The underside is old and I expect I will need to replace mounts - I have done everything else it might be, replaced the slave cylinder and rebuilt the master cylinder.
Thanks for your help
Jim <font color="green"> </font>

 

[aerog]

Just FYI - Just did a quick check of Moss Motors - they have a full Borg & Beck clutch kit for $149 (includes pressure plate, clutch disc, and release bearing)

 

[John Moore]

Brit Tek has one for about the same price. Problem with replacing the clutch is that you have to pull the engine and transmission. It's not the parts that are expensive, just the labor.

How handy are you? The engine comes out pretty easily. Also when the engine comes out the "might as wells" can really attack. Engine mounts, tranny mounts, side cover gaskets, consider replacing the rear seal. resurface flywheel, paint the engine, etc.

 

[R6MGS]

Priced a new clutch for the 1980 MGB LE a few months ago....came out to around $700 CDN for labour only as we supplied the clutch....it'll be going in for the work soon, once the weather is consistantly warm.

 

[Moose33]

My mechanic quoted a clutch job to be 10 hours labor.
figure in your shops labor and your KNOWN parts needed and factor in an extra cushion of $200 for whatever else might need to be done while the engine is out.

what is it doing, or not doing at this point that leads you to believe you need the clutch done?

 

[rampant]

Had a clutch job done about 8 months ago ,not including parts was 625.00 and parts were abot 130.00

 

[jimmiekeyes]

Sorry that I was gone so long, live in the florida keys and family was here visiting.
Here is what is wrong, the car has had the slave cylinder replaced, master cylinder rebuilt and still won't depress the piston enough to allow us to shift. The release bearing might be blown up, this car has gone over 130,000 miles, even more problematic those miles recently have all been short two mile trips.
We are thinking of replacing the master cylinder to see if that does it. But if it comes down to pulling the engine and transmission to replace a clutch the can of worms we open up is going to be very large.
I agree we will be replacing the mounts for both the transmission and the motor at a minimum and who knows with the age of the vehicle what else.
I don't think replacing the master will do it but if it doesn't then I guess I'll sell the car for something under 1500.00
That's the next question what is a fair price for an 80 MGB in very rough shape but with a good engine, webers that we just rebuilt etc. I sure don't want to stick money in it short of a full restoration and then have way more in it than it is worth by any stretch of the imagination.
I would like to get it working to sell in working condition but if it costs 700 to 1000 $ to do that and that's all the car's worth, i'd just as soon sell it now for whatever is fair.
Lots of questions Thanks for your thoughts.
Jim

 

[Radford]

Jim, my guess is that you ar looking at somewhere between eight hundred and a thousand dollars either way. How rough is rough, I mean the Keys have got to play havoc with car bodies, and we all know how easily british car bodies rust.

 

[R6MGS]

Jim if you want to sell it send me an email at rjzer@sprynet.com Please provide a descripion of overall condition and pictures of exterior, engine,interior etc.....please don't send more than 3 pics at a time

Thanks
Zack

 

[jimmiekeyes]

Back again, I haven't tried the Master Cylinder yet. If that fixes it I'll be surprised. At this point I think I'll try the MC and then if that doesn't work sell the vehicle. I have a pic but its too big to fit so back to the drawing board on that one.
Jim

 

[ROADSTR6]

Jimmie, you'd be surprised at how little the slave has to move to get clutch disengagement/engagement. If it's moving 1/4" to 1/2", your hydraulics are probably doing their job. If the car has been sitting a while, the flywheel may have rusted (salt and sea air, etc.), bonding the friction disc to it. I ran into this problem myself a few weeks ago with my '69 B which sat outside for years in NC. At the beach, I could imagine it taking only a couple of months to develop this problem. I could shift mine if the engine wasn't running, but once I cranked it, no dice. Can you put your car in first, press the clutch, and crank the car without it lurching forward? If not, you may have the rusty flywheel problem. If this is the case, I recommend starting the car in neutral and letting it warm up to operating temperature. Turn it off. Situate the car so that you have a clear path ahead of you. No people, cars, etc. in the way. Put the car in second gear and crank the engine over with the transmission engaged and a foot on the clutch. You'll do the herky jerky 'till it fires and you're off and running. Once you get going, get on and off the gas many times while your foot is on the clutch the entire time. Your neighbors will think either you're crazy or you haven't quite mastered driving a stick, but eventually (usually less than two miles)it will break free. You'll know it when it does. It will pop. BTW, don't do this on a major highway. Be sure your brakes are good before you try it too. It's kinda' scary, but it works. Think about it before you spend $800 or sell the car.

 

[jimmiekeyes]

Thank you. I will take this action and report the result and again thank you. This forum is the best and you sir - are the best of the best! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif