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white smoke [blown head gasket]

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evsdropr

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I have a 1979 midget with stock 1500 cc just added weber dgv
and pace setter header in tuning carb I found timing appeared to be off set timing by ear instead of light ,and once car got warm white smoke billowed out tail pipe and lost quite a bit of power.I checked dipstick and it doesn't seem to have water in crankcase , any ideas?
 
You can always do a pressure check on the engine. If there is a blown head gasket you will be getting air from the radiator bottle.
JC
 
[ QUOTE ]
I have a 1979 midget with stock 1500 cc just added weber dgv
and pace setter header in tuning carb I found timing appeared to be off set timing by ear instead of light ,and once car got warm white smoke billowed out tail pipe and lost quite a bit of power.I checked dipstick and it doesn't seem to have water in crankcase , any ideas?

[/ QUOTE ]

Noticed this is your first post. Welcome to the forum! Not a bunch of more helpful people on the planet! Enjoy!

Regarding the problem above, the very first thing I'd do is pull all spark plugs and check for moisture. Then, with the plugs still out, turn the engine over on the starter. If there is water in one or more cylinders, it'll come flying out confirming your suspicions. (Plugs out will also prevent a hydro-static lock which can cause all kinds of mechical damage!)

Best wishes and let us know.

Tim
 
Welcome aboard!


you can do it with a compresion tester, or a leak down tester.
copresion testers are available at most all parts stores and are fairly cheap. A leak down tester is a little more comprehensive, and are also available. You might want to do a comp check and see what you get for readings. They shold be within at least 5-10% of each other. a low reading on adjacent cylinders might five you a clue as to where the problems are.

Mark
 
If you don't have an air compressor then the advice that Tim gave about pulling the plugs may be the best way to go. What a pressure tester or "leakdown tester" does is uses an air compressor and an adaptor that allows you to hook the compressor into each spark plug hole one at a time. While doing this you make sure the cylinder is at the very top, set your parking brake and put the tranny in high gear. You supply regulated air usually 100psi to the cylinder and listen at the tailpipe, air filter, oil filler cap, and radiator cap. Where you hear the air is where your power is going when the engine is running. Each place tells you a different story about the engine. With a little internet searching you can find out all you want to know about leakdown testers... Try the plugs first and look for moisture. If the coolant is going directly into the exhaust port...not sure if this can happen on LBC's...then you may not find coolant on your plugs but it is worth a look considering the limited amount of effort it will take.
JC
 
Well the good news is it only took one test to find out the problem.The bad news is I have a blown head gasket.The test that proved it was pulling the plugs and cranking the engine.Anyone have any ideas on whether the car being out of time could cause the blown head gasket?Also anyone recommend the copper head gasket for a stock head?
PS thank you Tim for the info on pulling the plugs!
 
If there is anyone who knows about water in the cylinders, it's Tim!!
Head gasket is a phrase that is never mentioned in his, or Brads, presence.
If the car was sufficiently out of time to run hot, that could lead to a blown gasket.
I wouldn't recommend the solid copper gasket for a stock setup. The regular head gaskets seem to work fine for me, but I do coat them liberally with spray on copper-coat prior to installation. Don't forget to re-torque the head back to specifications after running it a bit. Also, get a good straight edge, and make sure the surface of the head is flat.

Jeff
 
One thing you want to remember to do before you pull the head, is to drain the water from the block. There's a plug on the left side of the block, about halfway up towards the rear on the right hand (carburetor) side. There actually may be a drain valve there. This keeps you from dumping coolant into the cylinders when you pop the head.
Jeff
 
[ QUOTE ]
If there is anyone who knows about water in the cylinders, it's Tim!!
Head gasket is a phrase that is never mentioned in his, or Brads, presence.
If the car was sufficiently out of time to run hot, that could lead to a blown gasket.
I wouldn't recommend the solid copper gasket for a stock setup. The regular head gaskets seem to work fine for me, but I do coat them liberally with spray on copper-coat prior to installation. Don't forget to re-torque the head back to specifications after running it a bit. Also, get a good straight edge, and make sure the surface of the head is flat.

Jeff

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif

You're gonna jinx me saying stuff like that, Jeff! Wish I still had pictures of his freshly pressure washed pistons though - my how that works!

Ran 3 hours and 2 minutes of racing conditions on the head gasket in the 948 race motor and the gasket is still there in its full glory. That's ok though - I don't mind being able to change it in 30 minutes or less...you know - for that occasional mishap. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif

Brad
 
[ QUOTE ]
If there is anyone who knows about water in the cylinders, it's Tim!!
Head gasket is a phrase that is never mentioned in his, or Brads, presence...

[/ QUOTE ]

LOL! I wondered what Jeff was going to say the entire time I spent writing that little response! Yeah, I've had more than my share of head gasket problems on the race motors!!

Glad to have been able to help. Now get it fixed and back on the road. BTW, Brad's reference to 30 minutes is fairly accurate with the right knowledge, experience, tools, parts, and motivation -- like getting the car ready for the next race after blowing a head gasket in the previous race! <grin>

Heading back to the garage to play with the corner weights on the race car some more. Waterford Hills is racing this weekend! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif

Tim
 
if i see no signs of water in the crankcase do you recommend draining the motor oil and changing the filter anyway? I'm just in such a hurry to get her back up and running and want to do it as fast as I can.
 
Why take a chance. It will only take 30 minutes or less to change the oil & filter. You can't be in THAT much of a hurry.
D
 
so I don't go through this again can anyone tell me where the timing should be on a '79 midget yhat is stock except for weber dgv and pace setter header?should it be the same setting as the factory setting? (which i think is 8-10 degrees BTDC)
 
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