Which oil to use in concours car?

[ming11]

I have a 1948 Jaguar 3.5 liter Saloon with zero miles on it. It has undergone a body-off restoration. Presently the engine is filled with 30W non-detergent oil as per original factory specs. It also has an original NOS Tecalemit washable-cotton oil filter. This car will always be trailered to concours and only driven within the concours site for judging. Since detergent oils deteriorate with time and this car takes 13 quarts of oil, can I continue to use the non-detergent oil and leave it in the engine? I doubt whether the car will drive more than 10 miles per year. Naturally, I would bring the engine up to temperature before shutting it down.

 

[Steve_S]

I'm no expert on this particular question, but I would imagine that any engine oil would be fine, provided you change it periodically. I would also thoroughly warm up the car to normal operating temperature a few times per year. Ideally I would drive it around for an hour but at the very least let it idle until warm and then a while more. The reason for this is to get the oil hot enough to evaporate any water out of it.

 

[piman]

Hello Ming,

with the number of miles you do I doubt that it matters what oil you use.
However, just by running an engine up to operating temperature is really a waste of time. An engine needs to work to get thoroughly hot to get rid of any water that the oil absorbs which then turns into acids. So which ever oil you choose will deteriorate quickly and do your engine no good whatsoever.

Cars that are not used regularly deteriorate mechanically and electrically.

Alec

 

[Steve_S]

To clarify, by stating "thoroughly warm up the car to normal operating temperature", I don't mean simply coolant temperature. The engine needs to warm to the same point it would in normal driving. This includes metal as well as liquid. Since the car won't see pavement, idling and revving for a while is all that one can do.

 

[jlaird]

I would change the oil quarterly even if only run a bit. Wonder if the rings are even seated.

 

[AweMan]

I agree with Piman, Acidic oil will be your worst enemy in this scenario. Even periodicaly warming the engine up to operating temprature will not rid the oil of any acids that have built up inbetween warmups, Unless of course you run the engine up to temp frequently {Like at least weekly}. And if you are going to run the engine that much to keep any acid from building up you might as well drive it around your neighborhood every sunday and enjoy it some. {i`m sure others will enjoy seeing it too!}
Motorhome owners have the same problem with long periods of idleness. What I do with my M.H. is, In the summer I start it and let it idle until the temp guage shows it is up to the same temp as when i`m running down the highway at least once a week. In the winter it sits all winter and doesnt get started at all. Every spring I start it just long enough to get the oil warm then I drain it and replace with new oil, filter and all. Once I`v changed the oil and filter, We normally go camping {the trip is around 200 miles}. Hopefuly this burns off any excess moisture that has accumulated on the metal parts inside of the engine from sitting all winter.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Cars that are not used regularly deteriorate mechanically and electrically. [/QUOTE]
Is a VERY true statement!
Kerry

 

[LarryK]

Non-detergent oil is pretty much a thing of the past. If you want to keep the dirt out of the engine and not have to decarbon every year, change oil, put in good grade of non synthetic oil to help keep the rings scraping. If you do not drive much there is the possibility of rings not scraping and then there would be blow-by or fuel dropping past the rings into the sump and thinning the oil. Show cars need love and driving. If you look at the JCNA site you will see the St. Louis Concour winners drive theirs to and from the shows and on outings occasionally to keep them in running shape. That is part of the mystique of owning an old Jag. Yes, break downs are possible, but that's the quirckiness of British cars. Makes great stories at the shows and get togethers later. The oils of today are so much improved, they will make the car last longer on normal driving. Sitting and running is not normal and the acids will really work their way into the bearings and start the degrading process of which good money was paid to correct. Besides, what about the transmission, u-joints, and rear axles and etc. that need movement to lubricate. Most cars have to be moved a minimum of 25 ft per week just to coat the parts with lube. ( taken from a dealer lot with warning on new cars). You do not have to drive forever, but a few miles every couple weeks will keep tune in good condition.

 

[jlaird]

Even aircraft in storage need moved and engines turned from time to time just to keep em lubed and such.

 

[ming11]

Thanks for your excellent advice. I'll try to drive it a bit, but it's actually a horrible car to drive. Hot, uncomfortable, but beautiful.By the way, the entire electrical system is reproduction new. In fact, almost everything on the car is either reproduction new or NOS, including the wire wheels.

 

[LarryK]

You then drive it with the windows up and pertend it has a/c. Smile and give them the crown wave. Later they will say,"does that old car have a/c?" The answer,"yes! 80mph 4 windows down. We used to do that back in the 50s in my Dads' old Studebaker. My Moms' 140 was always hot, being near the wood floor over the dual exhausts, but listening to the exhaust notes and the engine roar, you never felt it.

 

[DougF]

I would use a specific break-in oil to help seat in the rings. After that initial start up and running, switch to a racing oil.
Synthetics are not recommended for brand new engines as they may not allow the rings to properly seat.
Non-racing oils lack the needed levels of ZDDP for lubricating the older flat top tappet engines, which can result in cam failure.