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Which oil filter base on my BJ8

rdbucknam

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I'm about to do first oil and filter change on my BJ8 since purchase. How do I know if the filter base is Purolator or Tecalemit so I know which seals to buy?
 
I'm about to do first oil and filter change on my BJ8 since purchase. How do I know if the filter base is Purolator or Tecalemit so I know which seals to buy?

p. 19 of the latest Moss Motors catalog has a good illustration (if you don't have a Moss catalog, get one; they're free and even if you don't buy from them the illustrations are excellent, cribbed from the parts manuals I believe).

Also, here: https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28858&SortOrder=180
 
rd-

It has been a while since I replaced the cannister filter on my car with a spin-on but my recollection is that the paper filter that Moss supplies comes with a couple of different sized O-rings which should cover the spectrum of filter heads. And now might be a good time for you to consider upgrading to a modern spin-on filter. Without addressing whether or not they provide better filtration they certainly make the job of replacing a filter much easier.

And if you do opt for a spin-on try to find a filter base that accommodates the filter in a vertical position which allows you to fill the filter with oil during an oil change. The alternative--horizontal mounting--means that there will be a big slug of air in the lube system which to my mind cannot be a good thing.
 
rd-

It has been a while since I replaced the cannister filter on my car with a spin-on but my recollection is that the paper filter that Moss supplies comes with a couple of different sized O-rings which should cover the spectrum of filter heads. And now might be a good time for you to consider upgrading to a modern spin-on filter. Without addressing whether or not they provide better filtration they certainly make the job of replacing a filter much easier.

And if you do opt for a spin-on try to find a filter base that accommodates the filter in a vertical position which allows you to fill the filter with oil during an oil change. The alternative--horizontal mounting--means that there will be a big slug of air in the lube system which to my mind cannot be a good thing.

I also think the filters come with a couple O-rings, but it's been a while since I bought any and couldn't say for sure. You could call Moss and ask them, their people are usually knowledgeable and helpful.

Agree on the spin-on filter vertical mounting, though I have the side/horizontal mounted adapter and after a change get pressure within a few seconds. Always wondered about the older Ferrari engines, which appear to have a couple filters mounted vertically with the openings down! Guess they expect you to rebuild your engine every 5K miles anyway.
 
I still have the original filters on my cars . Spin on's in my mind are for modern cars . The cartridges come with a variety of O rings and the top seals to suit whichever canister you have .
The easiest way to change it is to remove the two long bolts facing upward at you as you look down into the engine bay . Take the whole assembly over to your workbench and deal with it there , that way you can really see if you have the top seal in properly so it doesn't leak . . You can easily make a new gasket out of those thick brown paper grocery bags and a smear of gasket sealant .
 
rd,

Do yourself a big favour. Unless you're showing the vehicle, get a spin-on filter adaptor. Easy to install. About $50. Takes about an hour or so. Accepts a large number of spin on filters. Don't fart around with the sealing rubbers on the old canister filter. There is limited room to work, you have to dig out the old rubber and sometimes they leak, if not seated properly. You can always put it back to original if required. Thank me later.

And welcome to the BCF. A lot of good info here from a great group of enthusiasts, and administrators.

Cheers.
 
My '60 BN7 came with a NAPA Gold 1516 filter, and that's what I use when I replace it. I don't know the origin of the spin-on adapter on this car. Frankly, one wonders whether the world really needs all of the oil filter ones finds in the auto parts store. I also have worked quite a bit on road bikes over the years, and I remember the early days when a great many components worked together. But as time went by we had 6-speed chains, 7-speed chains, shifters with "pulls" that only worked with certain derailleurs, etc. I think this proliferation of components is done more to boost sales than from real needs. Firearms makers discovered years ago that adding new calibers boosted sale, but I digress.
 
I was cleaning up in the garage this morning and I had a look in one of my spare oil filter boxes . Its a WIX51302 and there are 3 different top canister seals of different thickness and section to suit whichever canister you have . I looked in an older Purolator filter box (its really old n faded) and there was only one seal but the seal was loose in the box and the box may have been raided at some point in its life .
 
Healey Nut: The easiest way to change it is to remove the two long bolts facing upward at you as you look down into the engine bay . Take the whole assembly over to your workbench and deal with it there , that way you can really see if you have the top seal in properly so it doesn't leak

:encouragement:
 
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