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TR2/3/3A Which choke cable

TomMull

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My choke is a PITA. I need to pull it with all the strength my aging hand and fingers can muster and still if I have a helper push the lever from inside the engine compartment it moves a bit more quite easily.
I've done all the stuff suggested for this condition, oiled the cable, rebuilt the carbs, polished the jets and followed the linkage diagram posted by the late Randall Young.
Next step seems to try a new cable. The one I have seems to be a replacement as it doesn't seem to have the stops of the original or if it does, they don't stop.
The question is which replacement cable? Moss and others list 2, a "replacement" and a "reproduction". What is the difference? I think one other supplier lists a twist lock cable too but my main interest is to get the chokes to operate fully and the locking or stops just a small bonus.
Any recommendations?
Tom
 

CJD

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The twist lock cable is the original style. It is a bit easier to pull if you twist first, as then it misses the detents, which add a bit to the pull force. I would assume the repro is the twist lock style, and the replacement just a simple friction cable.

One other thing to check is the cable is in close proximity to the heater core. It is easy for the cable to get a sharp bend right as it exits the dash to clear the heater. Once it has a sharp bend it is forever hard to pull after that.
 

sp53

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I got the original twistable from Moss and it is a good reproduction. It does not take too much to pull. These chokes can be fiddly sometimes; they foul up right at the choke cable holder on the front carb and need to have that clamp just right for the angle to slide. Maybe even a slight arch and wiggle room there. What John said also and perhaps your clicker inside slipped or wore out. I twist mine to the right also then pull and I would bet you could pull it without too much effort.
steve
 

dbenichou289

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I am following this as well as I just installed a "replacement' style and it is tough as nails to pull. I have gone though the carbs and linkages and all work smoothly. I also do not see any kinks or sharp turns in the cable, and I oiled the interior cabling with lubricants. ...Still difficult to pull. Not sure where to go from here...
 
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TomMull

TomMull

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I have the original cable in my other TR3 project car. I plan to put it in my driver TR3 tomorrow. Will post result here. Tom
 

6TTR3A

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The choke assy. sold by TRF is a pretty good copy of the original Lucas unit with one exception:
The tiny "D" shaped piece that locks into the cuts on the brass shaft is way too big. They are a pain to trim,
but doing so makes the pull tension a little bit better. I finally left that part out since once the engine caught
the set screw on the idle linkage can be set to keep the idle speed up until it warms up. I still wasn't completely
satisfied so I disconnected the choke linkage from the front to the rear carb and Viola! Easy-peasy !!
F
 

Graham H

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I modified my choke by fitting a new outer and inner cable from a push bike shop. The new one has a nylon lined outer and allows the multi strand inner to move with ease a bit of a fiddle but works much better.

Graham
 

mastaphixa

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Grahm,
Can you provide details of your choke cable modification?
Steve Baker
 
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TomMull

TomMull

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The twist lock cable is the original style. It is a bit easier to pull if you twist first, as then it misses the detents, which add a bit to the pull force. I would assume the repro is the twist lock style, and the replacement just a simple friction cable.

One other thing to check is the cable is in close proximity to the heater core. It is easy for the cable to get a sharp bend right as it exits the dash to clear the heater. Once it has a sharp bend it is forever hard to pull after that.

I've found the cable from my project car and this is probably a matter of semantics but it might be more appropriately called a twist to unlock. The reproduction cable that is in my driver is a twist to lock. It has no detents but probably some sort of eccentric that locks it when you twist. Unfortunately the one from my project car will not be usable unless I can find a way to replace the cable core and jacket. I don't know if anyone's done that but I'd be interested if you have. I could probably get away with just replacing the core.

Someone put a retaining clip on the support behind the heater in my driver that holds the cable in a nice direct route through the firewall.

Tom
 

sp53

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Does the knob come off both cables? I used a guitar string for the inner cable-- been there for many years--- and a small piece of stainless steel washer for the D clicker and I cannot remember what I did for the outside or if I replaced the outside. I think I solder one once with a piece of wooden dowel to keep the hole open.
 

CJD

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Guitar string...I like that idea. Starting with a washer is a good idea too...I spent a lot of time making the little half moon lock from scratch. Starting with a washer would have saved a lot of time!
 
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TomMull

TomMull

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Does the knob come off both cables? I used a guitar string for the inner cable-- been there for many years--- and a small piece of stainless steel washer for the D clicker and I cannot remember what I did for the outside or if I replaced the outside. I think I solder one once with a piece of wooden dowel to keep the hole open.

The knob on the original cable is held on by a spring loaded pin and comes off easily. The replacement cable is the same although the placement of the pin looks different. The knob on the replacement cable is loose also and moves almost 1/4 inch on the shaft, a result I assume of the force I and the PO had been using to start the car.
I hope to retain the knob on the original cable anyway. Actually got everything to work on it after a day or two in penetrating oil but I'll replace the 60 year old core anyway.
Plucky solution with the guitar string too.
Tom
 

sp53

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Forgive the dirt, I drive this car hard and hang it up wet, I live in western Washington the evergreen state. The guitar strings come in different diameters, also.
 
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