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Where's the best place to have tandem MC resleeved

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Luke_Healey

Luke_Healey

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I'm looking for opinions of the best places in the USA to have the tandem master cylinder in my 1098 serviced. My brake side leaked all of the fluid in the reservoir onto my floor over this winter. In the summer braking performance is always iffy, in that I find myself pumping to get pressure.

So I'm wanting to just drop the money to have it resleaved and possibly entirely rebuilt by a company so that I know it's not going to leak and also so I don't have to mess around with a new 7/8" version of this cylinder.

Do any of you have good reccommendations?
 
I too had mine done at Apple, BUT, I've almost never heard a good word about them, and i've heard tons of horror stories. That said, mine from them works great, 10 years on.... BUT, the resident expert, is Gerard

(https://www.gerardsgarage.com/)

and i've only heard GREAT things about both Seirra and White Post.
 
Im less than 20 minutes from them, not only did I hear bad stories, The guy who spoke to me on the phone had pretty poor knowledge. I sent my stuff out. (Not a M/C anyways) but never the less, wasnt impressed
 
Thanks, this is the info I was looking for. I'm hoping to just have my cylinder resleeved. I haven't taken it apart to inspect the pistons yet.

I figure now is a good time to get it out of the car and get it sent away so it'll be back before things thaw out for good.
 
I wouldn't choose Apple. I had a MGB brake cyclinder done by them a few years ago. They lost a banjo fitting, the packaging was poor and it leaked within 9 months.
 
Luke_Healey said:
Thanks, this is the info I was looking for. I'm hoping to just have my cylinder resleeved. I haven't taken it apart to inspect the pistons yet.
Click to expand...

How do you know it needs a sleeve? Just curious, I've spent serious quality time with my 3/4" bore MC since I've had the car (9 months or so) and maybe I should have just sleeved it from the get go but it sure felt decent to my untrained finger tips. I honed it lightly and it seems fine but haven't been able to assess on the road yet.
 
Its been my experience that a master cylinder has to be pretty bad to require a resleeve. If you hone it and leave a few small pits it won't give trouble. If it seeps a bit you can often just adjust the push rod a tad to locate the seals in a different spot and stop it.
KA
 
In my case, I just don't want it leaking, and having working brakes is important enough that I just want it done correctly. I'm tired of having brake fluid on the floor of the car, and subsequently on my shoes.
 
I remember discussing this a while back. On my MC, I don't see how you could do that, the piston needs it's full travel so it has to start from where the spring pushes it all the way out and you want it to travel all the way with a full pedal stroke. I thought push rod lengths really just effect pedal position? You need some clearance at the pushrod to piston as per the book, IIRC but I'm such a newb I better shut up. I have to readjust everything soon too though. Could be your MC is different though.
This thread may be interesting. I learned not just any 3/4" seal will work.
 
Over the last 40 years I have had two done by White Post. No problems with either of them. Lovely craftsmanship.
 
Tonight I bought a brake cylinder hone when I was at the car parts store. I have to hone a brake cylinder on my Ford, so I figure it'll get used either way. Now some of you have me wondering if I can just rebuild my master cylinder in the Sprite. I have two VB rebuild kits laying around here. If things look smooth in there, I'm just going to clean everying up, hone it slightly, and put it back together.

The car was rebuilt more than 15 years ago, so maybe its just leaking due to age or improper rebuilding by the previous owner.

I'll keep everyone posted. Hopefully detailed photos to come.
 
Or maybe the old seals are just gone. Give it a shot.
 
Luke: A 66 has a 3/4 master and I hope you got a hone that will go that small. If not they have them and there not to pricey. Alcohol is the solvent to use. Good luck!
KA
 
I found out my hone is too big :wink:

I removed and tore down the master cylinder tonight. There was rust in there, but not much. However, where the final seal to the outside world sits, there's pitting. I'm not sure how much is allowable. I'm going to start a new thread about the teardown and inspection.
 
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