I've been trying to pin down the best fast idle screw position and choke spring tension, and have met with a minimum of success. I wanted to make sure the choke was opening fully on its own at the present adjustment, so I tried to take the car for a brief spin to get it warmed up the rest of the way. It kept trying to cut out at idle. I brought it back home, and the idle (still) wasn't so good. I saw the tach was down close to 500, not sure how it managed to get that low, so I turned it up to 900-1000. The quality improved not one bit. I played with the mixture, and got it to run worse, but not better.
Last time I adjusted the carb I had altered the float setting slightly in order to eliminate a small fuel drip at idle. The fuel appears to be atomizing properly since the adjustment, as there is no longer any fuel visible down the barrels. After making the adjustment, I tuned according to some baseline settings and instructions I found online for my carburetor (Weber DGV). It was idling very smoothly, even as low as 550 rpm or so.
What could have gone wrong? I haven't messed with anything but choke and fast idle screws since, and they shouldn't be at issue when the engine is warmed up, which it was.
Last time I adjusted the carb I had altered the float setting slightly in order to eliminate a small fuel drip at idle. The fuel appears to be atomizing properly since the adjustment, as there is no longer any fuel visible down the barrels. After making the adjustment, I tuned according to some baseline settings and instructions I found online for my carburetor (Weber DGV). It was idling very smoothly, even as low as 550 rpm or so.
What could have gone wrong? I haven't messed with anything but choke and fast idle screws since, and they shouldn't be at issue when the engine is warmed up, which it was.