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Where would you wire an auxilliary outlet?

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I'd like to add a (hidden - non-dash-spoiling) 12v outlet for odds and ends. You know, a cigarette-lighter style. Two questions:
1) where would you put it (that's off the dash but useful)?
2) where would you tap into the power (dash wiring or in engine bay)?

I know I can buy an inexpensive socket with bracket, and one that comes with a wire that handles some reasonable amperage. But, is there a best place to get the power (that doesn't over-load anything else)? I presume I should add an in-line fuse... and what amperage might that be?

How about a photo or two (of clever locations and a wire tap)?

Thanks.
 
Place it on the firewall ahead of the shiftier above the bottom of the dash just a bit. Mount it side ways at the edge of the foot well on the passenger side. Wire direct to battery through the fire wall with an in line fuse.

There ya go, out of the way and non-dash-spoiling.
 
I just went to my local O-Reillys and picked up a remote outlet that is completely insulated. Wired into the switch and toss it loosely on the package tray in my MK2 midget. Navigator wife can then decide what needs to be plugged in. Garmin or cell phones and its not hardly noticable where its at. It said on the package that it would'nt work for a cig lighter.

Kurt.
 
Very nice. Thank you both (Jack and Kurt). Much appreciated.

I've often thought it would be nifty to see something I saw in a big Healey where they rigged a little pull-down shelf that had a GPS and/or other item(s).

At any rate, I think I'll start with a simple power outlet down below.
- Mark
 
Positive ground car here, so I too picked up a completely insulated outlet, mine from Radio Shack. I wired the hot to the fuse for the horn, as it's the only thing on that fuse, but still use the inline fuse as well. I left the wires long and toss the outlet into the parcel tray, unsecured. It's easy to get to and unobstrusive, with no extra holes drilled anywhere.
 
Be careful--the socket may well be insulated, but the thing you attach to it may not be totally insulated, even if it seems like it. Any metal on the outside could be connected to the local ground.
 
Sarastro said:
Be careful--the socket may well be insulated, but the thing you attach to it may not be totally insulated, even if it seems like it. Any metal on the outside could be connected to the local ground.
Click to expand...

Thanks Steve. I recall all your nifty electrical changes on that red Sprite... and saved them all! I'm still kicking myself for not jumping on buying your car back in July (but I just wasn't ready then). I've always been into electronics (and am still a ham) and really appreciated the work you did on the car as well as your generous on-line posting of all that you did to the car.

I'm thinking this "completely insulated" thing/approach is the easiest way to go for now (and I have + ground too). And the horn makes a lot of sense for a point of attachment.
- Mark
 
later sprite wiring diagrams ran the cigar lighter to the ignition switch or to the fuse box. Maybe more neat and tity as far as wires go?
 
You would have to be wiring it up with the polarity reversed for electronic applications so a short to the outside of what ever is plugged in would be a concern.

Kurt.
 
I like the idea of a fully insulated outlet on a coiled cord that can be tucked away. I got one at Harbor Freight for $5 (though auto supply stores and Radio Shack had various ones - some with USB outlets - for between $6 and $12). I'll ad an in-line fuse and I think this will be a good way to go for now. I plan to wire it so it's hot all the time.
 
bug_sixty said:
got it.. but was that not a concern back when they had it as an option on pos earth cars?
Click to expand...

Only electronic's needed back then were the radio and those were available with either pos or neg ground. Had a car with a homemade completely insulated radio housing to put a neg ground radio in a positive ground car once. ( I bought it that way!). Changing polarity is easy especially in a BE since you don't have to change the polarity to the tach.

Kurt.
 
nomad said:
bug_sixty said:
got it.. but was that not a concern back when they had it as an option on pos earth cars?
Click to expand...

Only electronic's needed back then were the radio and those were available with either pos or neg ground. Had a car with a homemade completely insulated radio housing to put a neg ground radio in a positive ground car once. ( I bought it that way!). Changing polarity is easy especially in a BE since you don't have to change the polarity to the tach.

Kurt.
Click to expand...

I used to have a 60s positive earth car that I used with a ham radio (drawing some serious amps). Had to rig a special ciruit-breaker and capactance isolation to get it all to work with a large, whip antenna. Anythings possible.
 
bug_sixty said:
and.. did the generator keep up?
Click to expand...

It did. Of course, I'd only transmit when I'd pull over and turn the engine off. At full power, my transceiver was about 200 watts (i.e., about 15 amps), but that was only bursts during speech and I didn't usually run it at full output. Receiving was just like running any radio. You sure didn't want to inadvertantly touch that whip antenna curing transmission though (without the possibility of getting an RF burn and a serious jolt).
 
I suppose this depends on the intended use, but what sort of fast-blow fuse might I use for the in-line protection? Simple electronics like an iPod could probably use a 1 amp... but, although I don't plan a lot of other uses, I wonder about a GPS. Obviously a lamp, short of being an LED, would require more juice. Suppose I should look up the power of various devices.

And as I ponder this on the fly, I suppose I should determine the typical amperage of a portable device battery charger (for like a cell phone). This might be the highest consumption.

Your thoughts would be appreciated... and you know who you are (don't you?).
 
I did an intersting thing with the radio in Bugsy so I could have a Ignition Switched power circuit plus a added a little mini SPDT switch mounted to the left dash support bracket. So Radio is wired to the switch. One side goes to an always on connection and the other side of the switch goes to a switched ignition connection. No worry about burning out points. Need to park by the side of the road, listen to music. Simply flip the power switch in the other direction and "Bob's your uncle!". About $5.00 worth of wire and a SPDT SWitch.
 
On my outlet I put a common 20 amp fuse- if it gets a direct short it will kill fast enough but it will handle anything that I need. The inline fuse is a last resort safety so 20 is fine (in my opinion)
BillM
 
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