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Where to Start?? Questions from a beginner...

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M down here in the country between Kenbridge and South Hill. I have a 66 BJ8 and am thinking of having the basics done by some pros since I have no time to invest in a project as detailed at this. Mine will require much of the same as you are describing. Sounds like you have a good basic machine to start with.
I did an MGB and a Bugeye back in the 70's, what has been said here is right on.
I love comming here just to day dream. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
This weekend we did a little rearranging of the garage, got the car moved around and back on jackstands. The engine does have oil in it and the raditor does have antifreeze. we connected the battery and the engine spun freely and the oil pressure came up normally.

However the engine does not spin by turning the key. The lights work from their respective switches but no wipers. Any explanation for this other than the typical Lucas reputation?

I took a few quick snapshots that I will post. Are there any specific pictures I could take that would allow for those on the forum to give me a little more info on the scope of this project. Criticism and comments are much appreciated.
 
Hi 66,
Maybe the first thing I’d try is switching the ignition key to “on” and see if there is voltage on the white wires on the fuse block. In one of your photos, the fuses look like they’re in a strange spot. Could just be the angle of the photo and it gets blurry when I zoom in. What is the red wire for that is hooked up to the horn fuse?
 
Think if that was in my garage I would go for a ride.
 
Looks like you've got something good to start with. But I've got to say that the rust bubbles on that rocker foreshadow some major work in store. From what I see, doing major cosmetic improvements without solving the foundational problems evident would not be prudent. That's a great car. Do it right.
 
I've seen that same look before! My 62 BJ7 landed in Montreal Quebec and I've got the new quarters, sills and more to prove it! Heck it just makes those easy restorations interesting!

Use it for a season before you start investigating further otherwise it could turn into quite the little project. Not that I'd know anything about that!!!!!!

DT
 
Hi, on the right hand side of the engine compartment out board of the oil filter is the starter solenoid. Attached to it's end facing the rear of the car is a button it may be enclosed in a rubber cap. With the ignition turned on the car in neutral slip a finger onto the button and push it in if the engine now spins the solenoid is; defective, stuck in the off position or the power wire to it is open circuited at the ignition switch or the solenoid itself. Could simply be the switch is defective.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
Good advice by all. Might add that get in the habit of soldering all stripped wires to keep them together. I don't mean solder all the wires together that go on a single connection,just solder the stripped end then insert into the proper connection point. This will prevent corrosion and provide a better overall contact. It is likely that you have a broken wire possibly on the starter button or the solenoid. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Thanks for the advice. Pressing the rubber button on the back of the solenoid was the only was the motor would spin. I will check the wires for voltage and I have another solenoid I could try to help narrow the problem down. Thanks again. - Steven
 
Hi Steven,
I wouldn’t replace the solenoid just yet, the clue being the wipers not working. I’m with Keoke that the ignition switch may be bad or just have a bad connection. Power comes to the white wires on the fuse box through the ignition switch from the voltage regulator. So things like the wipers, heater motor, fuel gauge and turn signals rely on that circuit. The lights are on a separate un-fused circuit. The ignition switch and horn share a connection at the voltage regulator (brown double wires connected to “B”). If there is no voltage on the brown (always hot) or white wires (with ignition on) at the fuse box, you probably have a bad connection at the voltage regulator. If there is power on the brown wire, but none on the white wires at the fuse box it should be time to crawl under the dash and check the ignition switch connections. I have a wiring diagram posted in the Knowledge Base here that may be of help. Look on the left side of any page under Site Links.
Good luck. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Johnny said:
Good advice by all. Might add that get in the habit of soldering all stripped wires to keep them together. I don't mean solder all the wires together that go on a single connection,just solder the stripped end then insert into the proper connection point. This will prevent corrosion and provide a better overall contact. It is likely that you have a broken wire possibly on the starter button or the solenoid. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Hi if you are referring to the bare wires inserted into the fuse block do not solder the ends. This wil cause the wires to eventually loosen in the socket due to cold flow of the solder when under the pressure of the retaining screw.---Keoke
 
Hi Stephen , just for kicks go back and try the starter switch now!--Keoke
 
Hi All,

An update on the ignition switch dilemma. I had voltage to the white wires at the fuse block, And I had voltage at the brown wires at the regulator. I then checked the red and white wire that connects to the top of the solenoid. When the key was turned over to start, I had voltage. This told me the ignition switch was still good.

I then tapped the solenoid with the broomstick and rubber mallet trick.....Problem solved. The engine will now spin with the key.

Thanks for all of the helpful advice.

- Steven
 
One tool that my son uses in restoring his supras is the digital camera. He starts every day with photos from all sides, top and bottom. Then he ends the day with photos.
Sometimes it may be days or weeks before he gets back to his projects and this "video diary" helps keep him on track.
 
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