• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Where To Find Used Parts

Renoman

Senior Member
Offline
I'm discovering I need to buy some parts on the TR6. I have bought new gaskets for the windscreen and a crash pad kit from TRF, I'm still waiting...(insert foot tap here). I'm dismantling the dashboard and noticed the light dimmer rheostat is broken and can't be fixed (I tried). So I need another one but this seems like the kind of part where a good used one would suffice. Other than Fleabay, which I have bought and sold a lot of parts from, I can't seem to put my mouse on a good site to find used parts. The classifieds on this website is not used and there isn't a forum on this website for "wanted" parts. Any suggestions?

Art
 
Yes, this one was bypassed too by simply plugging one of the connectors on the spare spade pole on the back of the switch. Maybe I should just leave it. Thanks for the info.

Art

SCguy said:
Most people by-past the rheostat as TR6 dash lights seem to be dim enough.

Triumphs Only in Ca for used $$$ parts.
 
My rheostat will only let the lights go on dim. I never thought of a bypass. I have the older style with the wire coil. It sounds very simple do I just wire it direct? Sorry I got away from the original thread. As for parts go to Hemmings Magazine on the web and look at the vendors that are listed there.
 
A good supplier of used parts is Scott Harper at Team Triumph in Warren, OH.
(330)392-7176
 
I noticed that the switch has two wires, probably battery on one side and the other wire goes to the dash lights. There are four spade connectors on the back of the switch, 2 common male spade positions available for each wire. It looks as simple as moving the wire off a spade connector and putting it next the other wire's spare common connector. It appears there's no cutting or splicing, just move the wire so they are next to each other. Doesn't seem to matter which two they are on as long as they are side by side.

Art

mallard said:
My rheostat will only let the lights go on dim. I never thought of a bypass. I have the older style with the wire coil. It sounds very simple do I just wire it direct? Sorry I got away from the original thread. As for parts go to Hemmings Magazine on the web and look at the vendors that are listed there.
 
I'm a member of a couple of other vehicle make forums which have a wanted/for sale section that is used very heavily and with success. Aren't there any other British car forums that may have a similer section on their forum? Just curious about it. Thanks.

Art
 
mallard said:
It sounds very simple do I just wire it direct?
Yup, works fine. TR2-early TR3A had a simple on/off switch (much more reliable than the rheostat or later dimmer); and I've never wanted more than on/off. The dash lights just aren't bright enough even at full bright to worry about intermediate stages, IMO.

Someday, I intend to come up with a more rugged replacement for the later dimmer. But it's not such an easy problem, as a short circuit might not draw more than just the bulbs do at full bright, and still be enough to burn out the rheostat. Anything big enough to handle the full power dissipation will be too large to fit in the dash.

Triumphs are not the only cars with this problem, I fought the same thing on a Plymouth for several years until I happened to find the pinched wire in the steering column. It would apparently only short under unusual circumstances, like a hard turn.
 
Art-

Interesting question and I'm curious too - what other brands to you see such heavily used for sale forums? Its not a matter of ad cost for the Triumph stuff - Basil's section is free, and the VTR website hosts a free forum as well. For me, I informally move parts around people I know kind of as a favor among hobbyists, but when I sell I usually go back to ebay since that is where I bought most of it in the first place.

Randy
 
eBay is another source for used parts; but as a counterman once said to me "You've already got a used part, what you need is a good part."
 
I hope I'm interpreting your post correctly. A couple of web sites that I've bought and sold used parts is on the Corvette Forum and the Impala SS Forum, of which I am a member and own a 98 Vette Vert 6-speed and 94 Caprice customized wagon. If you're interested in the format and the usage take a peek at the links. I was hoping to find a TR website with similar usage. I've actually stopped visiting these links since getting the "bug".

Art

Corvette Parts For Sale/Wanted
Impala Caprice Parts For Sale/Wanted

TR4nut said:
Art-

Interesting question and I'm curious too - what other brands to you see such heavily used for sale forums? Its not a matter of ad cost for the Triumph stuff - Basil's section is free, and the VTR website hosts a free forum as well. For me, I informally move parts around people I know kind of as a favor among hobbyists, but when I sell I usually go back to ebay since that is where I bought most of it in the first place.

Randy
 
Art-

I didn't pose the question very well. Not interested in the format, but I was just wondering what car groups might be staying away from ebay. Just a thought, but it seems like Ebay is a main driver on why places like the Carlisle meet are much smaller - the VTR site, for example used to get a lot more traffic. In fact, I bought my Triumph from there. Now its arguably a third or less of the ad content it used to have.

Randy
 
Making a rheostat work like new is easy. Provided that it's just corroded and not completely fried. Cleaning it up inside will help a lot. Rheostat Rebuild

And if you really want to make your gauge lights brighter: Gauge Refurbishing
 
A very nice write-up on the gauge restoration. Very detailed. One question...how does the bezel come off the gauges? Do they rotate off or just pry straight off. Sorry if I missed it in the instructions.

My switch is the older style and doesn't look like the one in the pic. It looks like the contact on the rotating piece is missing because there is a gap between the wire winding and the rotating contact piece.

Art
 
Renoman said:
One question...how does the bezel come off the gauges?
The bezel twists, until the tabs line up with the slots and it falls off. Sometimes though, it does take a bit of gentle prying at the tabs to get the bezel loose enough to turn.

The only exception I know of is the ammeter on earlier cars. On the TR2-4 ammeter, the bezel is integral with the sides of the unit, and there are tabs on the back that have to be bent to disassemble. I'm not sure about the later ammeter, but it is likely similar.
 
I Like Scott Harper to, I traded my old coupe to him for some parts and some store credit, very helpful and willing to do anything to help a customer
 
Randall is correct, they do twist off and they can be a pain when they're locked on.

If you can spray a lot of aerosol glass cleaner (like Invisible Glass) around the back side of the bezel and housing (with the gauge lying face down on a towel) and let it sit overnight, it has a way of eating into the crude to help loosen them up. I think that I mention it for getting the crap out of the inside of the chrome bezels in the write up.
 
Back
Top