• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Where to buy a new crank

Share this page

MY66AH

MY66AH

Senior Member
Offline
I decided to rebuild my 1098 1966 Sprite engine. Took the block and the crank to the machine shop to find out it has already been turned 0.30. I know Victoria has one for $500 + core just was wondering what are my other options. Thanks everyone.






 
Turn it .040" or have it welded up and turned standard again.


Why not get a 1275?
 
You have a PM and I have anything you could need!!

Kurt.
 
MY66AH said:
Use a 1275 crank in my 1098?
Click to expand...
a lot of people feel that a 1098 in need of a rebuild is a great time to upgrade to the 1275 engine. so they are referencing changing complete motor not the crankshaft.
I may be wrong about this but the 1098 had two different crankshafts, size of journals are different.

with everyone switching to the 1275 engine there should be plenty of used crankshaft available at a fair price, I have the earliest 1098 crankshaft myself along with the other engine parts. cylinder was damaged by a rookie trying to rebuild.

the 1098 isn't a bad engine, the 1275 is just a better performing, more modern engine.
 
Bugsy I's 1098 proved to be a very rugged and reliable engine. Once I got PCV Valve in place and connected properly 5 small drops of oil marking his territory but no longer the Exxon Valdez as he was when purchased. Carbs got synched properly and would start with 1/2 turn of the engine form cold if driven within the last few days. My '69 1275 for Bugsy II, I have not had running yet but it was running when removed(using a quart every 200 miles and down on compression), needs a valve job and maybe rings, was a strong runner before it got replaced with a 1380 and a 5-speed. Looking forward to that portion of the project once I get through Bodywork and Paint and upgrade to Disk Brakes and Front End rebuild and Wiring, and Interior, and the list goes on.
 
Not sure my private posting's are getting thru so if not let me know here, MY66AH. I have a low miles 10CC that had low oil pressure but I'm sure has never been apart. Also a 10cg that has supposedly been rebuilt and hopped up plus all the parts needed to build a 1275.
Plus, I'm close!!

Kurt.
 
Very understandable,MY66AH. I always liked the way the 1098 sounded and ran and it is only rated 6hp less than the 1275.
The 10CC engine I have would not likely require much of a regrind if you would like to use that crank. I would expect that 10 under would clean it up. The former owner apparently wasn't too good about oil changes. The engine ran fine and I drove it many miles before pulling it to swap for a Datsun engine and trans. Its only problem was below spec oil pressure when hot which always scared me a bit. You could steal the crank and keep the rest for parts or just clean up the crank, fit new bearing's and change the serial number plate for yours and use it. Its just getting in the way for me and I would like to see someone put it to use.
Kurt.
 
MY66AH said:
@ Nomad. I'll let you know as soon as the machine shop tells me if I have to scrap it or not.
Click to expand...

Keep in mind it's a machine shop's job to sell machine work. You may very well be able to use what you already have as-is (after a hand polish by you). How was it running before and what was your oil pressure like hot and cold?

I'm all for you picking up a spare, but if you're gonna turn it anyway, they make a .040" under bearing so you can turn what you already have. The idea is use up what you have till it's no longer usable without major work THEN put the other one in.


We all know what'd I do with it. :grin:
 
On the other hand if you are going to the trouble of doing it, its often better to do it as well as you can to avoid spending to do it twice!
Just my .02!

Kurt.
 
Ok news update. I received a phone call this afternoon from the machine shop saying my crank JUST NEEDED TO BE POLISHED!!! So besides that I had the block boiled out, new cam bushings and frost plugs installed. Cylinder bore just needed deglazed. Get to pick it up tomorrow. Now what kind on engine paint should I use? Of course it will be the British racing green. Shoud have the motor back together next week. Then comes cleaning and repainting of the engine compartment.
 
MY66AH said:
Ok news update. I received a phone call this afternoon from the machine shop saying my crank JUST NEEDED TO BE POLISHED!!! .
Click to expand...


:whistle:......:grin:

Get the spares from Kurt though if you plan on stayin' w/ a 1098.
 
I believe Moss sell's the correct color engine paint and I believe there are 2 colors of spridget engine green. You would want the earlier color. Been a while since I did this so I may need correcting on some of it and I'm sure the group will chime in!!
BTW.
My 1098 is still here!!!

Kurt.
 
I am happy with the Austin Healey green engine enamel I got from POR15. It has held up well for me. The color on their web page is not a good representation of its real color.
 
Curious, are you doing the new ring's and insert's or is the machine shop doing the reassembly?? Setting up the rear scroll seal is a bit tricky as is getting the front timing seal right and keeping the oil leak's from gaskets at a minimum.

Kurt.
 
spot on scroll needs the line bore deal from all my experience or these real seal kits...and there's plenty of opinions on those floating around!
 
Back
Top