When to throw in the towel on a project?

[tdskip]

Not all together of course, but on a given car. I've been lucky and stupid enough to assemble more than a lifetime's worth of projects and I need to weed out the ones that aren't going to get back on the road in the near term.

I know that any car <span style="font-style: italic">could</span> be put back on the road, but I'm trying to be both pragmatic and realistic on what I'm capable of.

The car is question is my 1971 TR6, which you may remember from such posts as "I've launched it over the back of a U-haul", "Is it normal to have 3 cubic yards of sand in your sills?", "Is there supposed to be a hole in the sheet metal here" and who can forget the classic "I'm pretty sure that thick black sludge blocking the oil passage ways is bad, right".

She needs floors pans, inner and out sills, a noisy rear diff etc... attended to. On the positive side she has a working O/D that shifts well and the frame is straight and I have all the replacement body work.

I have proven that I am incapable of actually sending a car to a crusher, but proceeding on this project just doesn't seem to make a lot of sense when there TR3 and TR4 attention and she needs such an extensive amount of work (I have a running 1974 TR6 that I just got back on the road so I'm not exactly going with out here).

So standing back and objectively looking at this it would to make sense to harvest all the good bits, use the floors and O/D etc for the TR4 and then sell on what I don't need to fund other work. That will leave me with a shell still to find a home for.

So - here is the question. How have you guys stared down a project that just wasn't going to make the cut and how did you approach cutting the cord? Any lessons learned? Think anyone would want the shell with clean title and no back DMV fees(especially if basically being given away)?

 

[TR6oldtimer]

You could sell parts if you are so inclined and want to put up with the hassle, then eventually after months of selling bits and pieces, haul the left overs off to the junk yard (auto re-cycler). Or you can try and sell it as a whole, including the OT transmission for enough to buy another OT transmission, that way the new owner will have something of worth, worth what he will pay you. Or strip out what is worth keeping, then think of the rest as a one night stand, and move on... er, to the junk yard.

 

[tdskip]

You could sell parts if you are so inclined and want to put up with the hassle, then eventually after months of selling bits and pieces, haul the left overs off to the junk yard (auto re-cycler). Or you can try and sell it as a whole, including the OT transmission for enough to buy another OT transmission, that way the new owner will have something of worth, worth what he will pay you. Or strip out what is worth keeping, then think of the rest as a one night stand, and move on... er, to the junk yard.

Hi there - I think it makes sense to take the O/D, but the rest of it is a toss-up in that I could put a 4 speed back in her and try to see it as a whole running/driving car (which it is) or try to sell off the gauges and any other good bits. Probably makes sense to try and sell it as a running/driving car. Seems like that would probably return the most, even with the body issues. I'm not only focused on the $ side of it, want to make sure I'm not scraping a car that could be returned to the road (albiet with a lot of work).

What do you think Ray?

 

[TR3driver]

Probably makes sense to try and sell it as a running/driving car. Seems like that would probably return the most, even with the body issues.

Unfortunately, you'll probably get more $$ by parting it out. It's a lot of work, though, removing and selling each piece, which is time that might be better spent on your other projects.

Plus, it always seems a shame to me to take another car out of the pool, so to speak. It is inevitable of course, but I don't have to like it. That's why, when faced with the same decision myself, I sold the entire lot as a project (including two overdrives) for probably less than I could have gotten for just the ODs.

But then too, a Sports 6 (especially one with the original 1600 motor) is a rarer beast than a TR6, which did affect my decision.

 

[apbos]

I might have a line on a clean yellow TR6 Tub for you if you are interested? It is in Oakdale CA.

Paul

 

[tdskip]

Plus, it always seems a shame to me to take another car out of the pool, so to speak. It is inevitable of course, but I don't have to like it.

I heard you on that Randall - I really just can't bring myself to do it. And I think your coaching on the time and effort to part it out makes sense. In other words, the time/effort in trying to eek out some additional money probably is a small or negative return compared to the value of the time you could spend wrenching yourself vs farming the work out.

 

[tdskip]

I might have a line on a clean yellow TR6 Tub for you if you are interested? It is in Oakdale CA.

Paul

Hi Paul - thanks for the heads-up. As tempted as I am I'm going to try to stick to my guns here and shrink the fleet....

If that tub is solid you could take a lot of the oily bits from my car and do a 2-into-1 thing however. If you have someone who would be interested in that please let me know and I'll cut them a deal.

 

[TR6oldtimer]

Hi there - I think it makes sense to take the O/D, but the rest of it is a toss-up in that I could put a 4 speed back in her and try to see it as a whole running/driving car (which it is) or try to sell off the gauges and any other good bits. Probably makes sense to try and sell it as a running/driving car. Seems like that would probably return the most, even with the body issues. I'm not only focused on the $ side of it, want to make sure I'm not scraping a car that could be returned to the road (albiet with a lot of work).

What do you think Ray?

In my opinion, a running car will have more potential buyers then one not running. Interest will come from those who want a driver, those who want a parts car, and those who want a project. Your up side is one buyer and it is gone, the down side is you need to get it back on the road.

 

[pjsmetana]

I could not ever see myself purposely removing any Triumph from existence. Granted, the less there are, the more valuable the rest become, but still... I couldn't do it, although I could probably crush an MG. I even felt bad after a tow truck basically removed the front 1/2 of my 1st Spitfire and the insurance totaled it.

If I were you, I would put it back to close-to-drivable condition, and advertise it with the spare parts you have for it included, body panels and all. Running is better than not, obviously.

 

[TR4nut]

I've been through this and it isn't easy. I'm still looking at a TR4 project in my garage that I stare at occasionally. Can't get rid of it though, just yet.

Where I've had success, I've done it quickly. When I bought my current TR3A, I sold off 2 questionably restorable 3As that were quite rusty, literally in the same day. I've had pangs of regret that I should have taken a few parts first, etc, but they are short lived regrets - it is much easier now with them out of my way, and if I do need the extra part or two I have incentive to use ebay.

I would for sure pull the overdrive, etc. and try to bulk sell off the rest - or at least set the price to figure into a future overdrive purchase. Don't feel too guilty about saving the car either, if you can help it. I have that problem too, but a lot of these cars that trade hands for low dollars eventually just get broken up for parts by someone with the time and incentive.

Randy

 

[mallard]

My last project was a 1958 Austin Healey BN4 that was a stalled retsoration. The car had to many stories that I did not like, bent frame, incorrect rear body shell, and bad karma. I found someone that was going to drop a V8 into it and off it went. I still cleared $5000.00 except for the 3 day 2000 mile trip to go get it. I soon found my current TR3 that is in restoration and I never looked back. Enjoy the cars that are on the road and don't spend so much time in the garage. Even though I did spend 10 hours in the garage today.

 

[tdskip]

Enjoy the cars that are on the road and don't spend so much time in the garage.

Good point, for me anyway part of this is that I'm looking at a really long time before I can enjoy the 1971. That combined with that and I'm not convinced I can do the work properly myself to a level I'll be satisfied with.

 

[tdskip]

To close this loop - I decided to save it. (my skills may not be up to a concourse level but she'll be solid if perhaps a bit ugly....) Thanks, as usual, for all the input guys!

 

[4aKen]

I salute your tenacity.

 

[JamesWilson]

To close this loop - I decided to save it. (my skills may not be up to a concourse level but she'll be solid if perhaps a bit ugly....) Thanks, as usual, for all the input guys!

Good luck with it....

 

[John_Mc]

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-size: 17pt">Never give up! Never surrender!</span></span>

 

[Guest]

I was anxious to read - and quite respectful of - the responses you received to this profound question.

Amazingly enough, I could have solved this for you 41 years ago, in short order, with my Cost Accounting textbook. Unfortunately, that was 41 years ago, and, worse, I was in love at the time...

 

[tdskip]

Thanks guys - nice Galaxy Quest reference too!

She's never going to be more than a drive, but that is OK. The world needs drivers... Plus, I've never done rust repair and body work like this so better to practice here and get her back on the road at the same time.

 

[tdskip]

Like I said - driver quality work but once touched up and dressed it will be OK. Not like you can see it every day anyway once the car is assembled, but still not the best looking job. (A bunch to do here still I know, and I choose to address the small floor patch after getting the inner sill in since it provides a better reference point. I'm debating if I need to seal up the factory opening on the inner sill - kind of funky like that but I wanted to leave a lot of good metal in place on the replacement sill and lap weld several spots for strength)

So a couple things I've learn out of this today;

1) While I already had a high degree of respect for people who can get a quality / factory look finish on repairs like this it's doubled!

2) Lap welding is <span style="text-decoration: underline">sooooo</span> much nicer to do than butt welding, especially on surfaces that aren't completely true (these panels have been moved around some due to the Uhaul fiasco)

3) Never underestimate the power of taking a couple days away from any given area on the car that is frustrating you

<span style="font-weight: bold">I owe a bunch of you guys beer shall we ever meet up - thanks for the encouragement!</span>

 

[Silverghost]

Never underestimate the power of taking a couple days away from any given area ... that is frustrating you

Does the same logic apply to CHILDREN??!! :laugh: