• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
  • When posting a classified ad, you MUST select a prefix from the drop-down next to the subject line. If you don't you will get an error and your ad will not be posted!
Tips
Tips

Wheel studs

JohnDough

Senior Member
Offline
Are there any forum member that have snapped their 3/8 wheel studs doing some spirited (not the alcohol one) driving and maybe gymkhana/autocross events?

i'm considering upgrading to 7/16 but not sure if the socket that fits the available nuts will fit into the minilite type wheels I have.
 
Fitting 7/16 studs to the front is pretty easy but the rear hubs can be tricky to drill out. There is very little "meat" in there.

When I got my newest double bearing rear hubs, I asked the supplier (Frontline Spridget in the UK) if they came with the 7/16 studs? He said "no" but that there was enough room to overdrill if I desired. He also said it was not needed.....their race Spridgets with 200+ HP were doing fine running the 3/8 studs.

I did have 3/8 stud failure once, but these were extra long studs with a 3/4 spacer (to allow me to run 205 Hoosier slicks). And those studs were made in India (I found out later).

I have had no failures with standard length 3/8 studs in 7 years of racing so for now, I'll continue to run them (maybe I should knock wood :laugh: )

~Here~ is a typical example of the type of driving I do on 3/8 studs.
grin.gif
 
Thanks for the heads up on the meat on the rear wheel hubs. i'll check it out. i want to run 10mm spacers at the back and either way will need to change my studs.
 
Back
Top