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TR6 Wheel Studs - TR-6

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davidk

davidk

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I have recently switched from stock steel wheels to Konig Rewinds. The rear wheels seem to have enough thread to attach to with just over 8 turns. The front wheels only have 5 turns. I would like to replace the front studs. I haven't found a listing from the big 3 for longer studs. Does anyone know of a source? Will the rear studs fit and give more threads?

Thanks for your help!
 
No, I'm pretty sure they were for the stock steel wheels. Someone on another forum found a source in the U.K., but I was hoping for a closer source. Does anyone know if the rear studs are the same but longer?
 
Best I've seen for this so far is Cambridge Motorsports in the UK. I'm trying out new rims for my TR4 and was thinking of going with longer studs, but I also have 8 turns on the lugs and it appears so far that there is no issue.

The other more painful option is to get to a Napa or equivalent and see if you can find a decent choice from what they have.
 
I thought for sure someone over here stock them
What size do you need David?
 
davidk said:
I...The rear wheels seem to have enough thread to attach to with just over 8 turns. The front wheels only have 5 turns...
Click to expand...

Are you saying that the front studs are shorter than the rear studs? If so, are the front ones shorter than stock or the rear ones longer than stock?
 
So - guys - is there anything special about the studs used? "Just" right size and strength? Take me/us to school here!
 
DNK said:
Page 66 or 67 don't help ya?
Click to expand...
It could if I knew the correct size. May have to take a hub apart to measure.
DNK said:
What size do you need David?
Click to expand...
I think 1/4 to 1/2 over stock would work.
Geo Hahn said:
davidk said:
I...The rear wheels seem to have enough thread to attach to with just over 8 turns. The front wheels only have 5 turns...
Click to expand...
Are you saying that the front studs are shorter than the rear studs? If so, are the front ones shorter than stock or the rear ones longer than stock?
Click to expand...
I don't know the overall length of the stock studs, just that the front have fewer exposed threads than the rear.
tdskip said:
So - guys - is there anything special about the studs used? "Just" right size and strength? Take me/us to school here!
Click to expand...
According to the guide that came with the wheels from Discount Tire Direct, 7/16 studs should engage 8.5 turns. I think the length of the engaged stud is supposed to be the same as the diameter of the stud.
 
Moss shows that the TR6 takes the same front studs as a TR3. I just checked an original TR3 disc wheel hub, and the stud protrudes from the face of the hub by about 1". However, the last 1/8 - 3/16" is unthreaded, so the effective thread length is only about 13/16".

If I remember correctly, the rear studs on a TR6 will not interchange with the front studs. The front studs have fairly standard straight knurls, while the rear ones are tapered.

I would compare the exposed length of your front studs to the figures I've given above. If yours are shorter, then you have wire wheel studs somehow, and all you need do is buy and install standard disc wheel studs (as Andy suggested above).

If you need longer, aftermarket studs; then it's important to match knurl diameter and length. I make the TR knurl out to be roughly .518" by .250", but you should double-check those yourself before buying.

There don't appear to be any matches in the ARP catalog; although it might be possible to use their P/N 100-7702 by reaming the holes out. You might also have to shorten those, if your Konig nuts are closed end.
 
You can also go on to Dorman's website and search wheel studs by spec until your head hurts :smile: There are literally thousand's of part numbers. MGB owners, by luck found a metric wheel stud from the mid 80s to mid 90s Camaro and Vettes that turned out to be direct interchanges as for as fit, no mods to the hub at all, you may also want to ask the Triumph racers, down at the racer forum here, they should be able to point you in the right direction as well. If you have to mod, going up to 1/2" studs, would not be a bad thing.
 
Thing is, the original studs should be the same length front/rear; and they have plenty of thread exposed to use with your alloy wheels (if they are disc wheel studs). It also appears that those studs from Cambridge Motorsport have a relatively long unthreaded shank, so you may not just be able to cut them shorter.

You might want to check first ...
 
Update. TRF had a good shipping deal a few weeks ago, so I ordered one of each wheel stud.
Here's a picture of (from left to right), a steel wheel rear stud, a wire wheel front stud, the OEM original steel wheel front stud, the TRF steel wheel front stud, and the Cambridge Motorsports extended front stud.
DSC_0725.jpg


The rear stud is tapered, and has a .538 knurl, so it can't be used on the front. The OEM steel wheel stud has a .517 knurl an is 1 1/8" long from the shoulder to the end of the threads.
The steel wheel front stud from TRF has a .530 knurl and is the same length as OEM.
The wire wheel front stud from TRF has a .534 knurl and is 7/8" long.
The longer stud from Cambridge Motor Sports has a .519 knurl and is 1 5/8 long.
The Cambridge studs arrived from the U.K. in six days. They were great to deal with. Searched Dorman, ARP, and the web, but couldn't find anything else close.
I was hoping to install them without taking off the front hubs, but the studs (even the originals), are too long to come out without removing the brake rotors.
The front lugs now turn about 15 turns (17 without the alloy wheel).
The only problem is that the threaded shank starts too far up to put the steel wheel back on if needed. I'll probably carry a spacer in case of a flat tire.
 
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