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Wheel hard to turn after brake pad change

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tdskip

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OK - so maybe I'm not quite done. I changed the pads on the '74 TR6 front discs and now the passenger side wheel is hard to turn. No problems with the driver side.

I did notice I had to use much more force to move the pistons back on the passenger side compared to the drivers.

Think the caliper on the passenger side is seized?
 
tdskip said:
Think the caliper on the passenger side is seized?
Click to expand...
Sure sounds like it, but I'd try it with the bleed valve open first, to be sure it's not a hydraulic problem. Flexible lines can sometimes fail internally to cause a restriction or even check valve effect, while looking fine on the outside.
 
I am not sure how much help I will be, but could you please give us more information? When you pushed in the pistons initially to install the pads, were you able to push in both pistons on the passenger side completely? I would not be so sure they are siezed - how well the pistons were pushed in could have to do with how well each side is bled or if there was air in the lines. If you were able to push in both pistons, where were the pads in relation to the rotor? If you were not able to push in both pistons, did you try turning the bleed screw to release some pressure first? Did the wheel turn freely before you depressed the brake pedal?

Kevin
 
Hi guys - thanks for the quick response.

So here is the deal, when I got the car I only drove it around the neighborhood but at that point it wasn't pulling and brakes seems weak, but OK. I flushed the fluid, replaced the master cylinder, replaced the brake lines with new rubber ones and then she sat while I rebuild the front suspension. Fast forward 6 months to last night...

I finished the suspension rebuild and then installed new front disc pads and stainless steel front brake lines. That point the wheel first had a lot of drag.

The system does have fluid going through it properly, and I was able to start bleeding the brakes. The wheel spins freely now with just a slight amount of drag - equal to the other side.

I ended up pulling the pads back out and carefully pushing the piston back in and it seems to pop loose at that point. I haven't had a chance yet to finish bleeding the system yet so I don't know if the piston is toast or if it was just hung up. It may well have been frozen long before I got it since I never really got hard enough on the brakes to know if it was working properly.
 
Sometimes that's all it takes, and they weren't stuck all that badly before, so probably you're good to go.

But I would make a point of trying a panic stop with no traffic around, to be sure they are working well.
 
If the calipers did not have Stainless pistons there may have been some pitting on the original steel pistons. You may not have compressed the piston in far enough and that caused it to be tight. If you feel the car pulling to one side when you hit the brakes the piston may be sticking on the side that was tight. Just be carefull the first few miles to make sure all is well. Worst case you may have to rebuild the calipers. It is an easy job but is a bit expensive if you get the SS pistons. Also I would try to find a original set of Girling seals for the pistons instead of what they sell now. When I rebuilt my TR3 calipers with the rebuild kit from TRF the rubber was so thick that the pistons were to tight in the calipers. I friend of mine had some original kits so I used them and all was good after that.
 
Thanks guys - will hopefully get her back on the road today and <span style="font-weight: bold">carefully</span> get a read on where she stands.

I'm really eager, and a bit nervous, to see how the front suspension feels now that everything is new/poly bushed. I'm not so much unsure of the materials as I am the talent of the person who reassembled everything (me)!
 
I didn't notice much dif with the poly, a squeek or two until I sprayed the uppers with the app. lube. I was looking for more longevity from the bushings mainly.
I'll wager everything is just right.
 
Tom - When I awoke my 6 from it's 13 year slumber and rebuilt the hydraulics I ended up with exactly what Randall described, a front flex line with an internal failure that acted like a check valve. Mine was pretty bad, the car barely moved until you let it sit a while and then it was fine until you hit the brakes when it started all over again.
 
Hi guys - I'm pretty sure the piston is hosed and I'm going to have to pull the calipers off for a rebuild. Bummer...

On the + side - the car didn't collapse in a pile of poorly installed new suspension parts once I lowered it to the ground.
 
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