bash
Jedi Trainee

Offline
Hi guys
I know this has been covered before, and I am sorry to rehash it, but I finally got to install the new wheel bearings on my friend's 77 MGB roadster over the weekend, and I am a bit
confused by the shim and torque issue. I have only ever done wheel bearings on Triumphs (TR6 and TR7), where the procedure is tighten until wheel stops turning and back off to the next split pin hole.
I saw the article on the Autoist site about leaving out the shims, which makes sense to me, but without any shims in place I am only at maybe 10 lbft torque on the nut to stop the hub turning at all. If I back off to the next split pin hole it turns and all seems fine to my Triumph way of thinking.
What troubles me is that I get no measurable end float as I have it now. I used a dial gauge so even 0.001" should have shown up clearly enough. I packed the inner bearing but not the outer yet - I figured it would be in and out to add shims if I had a problem. Do I need to add a shim just to give some end float? Should I torque up to 40 lbft to make sure the bearings are seated properly or will that ruin them?
There was a single shim in place for the old bearings, but that's probably not relevant because I have a new stub axle and new bearings.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Alistair
I know this has been covered before, and I am sorry to rehash it, but I finally got to install the new wheel bearings on my friend's 77 MGB roadster over the weekend, and I am a bit
confused by the shim and torque issue. I have only ever done wheel bearings on Triumphs (TR6 and TR7), where the procedure is tighten until wheel stops turning and back off to the next split pin hole.
I saw the article on the Autoist site about leaving out the shims, which makes sense to me, but without any shims in place I am only at maybe 10 lbft torque on the nut to stop the hub turning at all. If I back off to the next split pin hole it turns and all seems fine to my Triumph way of thinking.
What troubles me is that I get no measurable end float as I have it now. I used a dial gauge so even 0.001" should have shown up clearly enough. I packed the inner bearing but not the outer yet - I figured it would be in and out to add shims if I had a problem. Do I need to add a shim just to give some end float? Should I torque up to 40 lbft to make sure the bearings are seated properly or will that ruin them?
There was a single shim in place for the old bearings, but that's probably not relevant because I have a new stub axle and new bearings.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Alistair