Similar to Steve's method, I've always had good luck by keeping the races in a freezer for a few days (I've never had a "deep" freezer, but I can appreciate its usefulness here) and heating the hubs in an oven. If you have a pair of__stick__welder's gloves, you can take the hub up to 250*-300*F with no problem.
The really fun part, and you need to be as accurate with your "drop" as possible, is the race will fall to the bottom of its bore with no hammering required. It makes the most rewarding clink that you can imagine!
Once only, out of dozens of times, did the race get cocked in the bore; the race will quickly equalize temperature and get stuck, and then has to be driven home__after you get it parallel again__with the drift & hammer that most folks used to begin with.