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Wheel and Tire Question

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Reading this thread with interest and I decided to measure my rear end while the Bugeyes on the cart. It looks like I need to move my rear axle 1/2" toward the passenger side to center it. I've loosened the front 2 bolts as well as the big U bolts, but even with a BFRH I can't get it to move. What's the best method to move those springs?
Thanks, Rut
 
They don't move.

If you want it centered you'll need to tweak it at the axle.
 
Trevor, I moved mine at the spring mount but don't remember exactly what I had to do. As I remember the mount is positively locked in place and I had to do some grinding and filing to move it. What I did to make sure it didn't move back I don't recall. The car had the feeling that it dog tracked down the road before I did it and it sure appeared like it had since it left the factory. Probably try to move it wherever is easiest. I did some diagonal measuring to determine the spring mount, for me, was the best.

Kurt.
 
That is basically what I meant. There is no "adjustment" with out bending (on a frame rack) or some other sort of filing and grinding. I would just prefer to tweak the axle over compromising the spring boxes.
 
I see what you're getting at but moving the axle much at all would be tricky without the fore mentioned sway bar method.

Kurt.
 
Thanks guys...I'll pull out the PortaPower and see if it moves without bending anything. If I'm not successful I'll take it to a frame shop and see what they can do.
Rut
 
Right Kurt, I was referring to relocating the uprights on the axle.
 
Trevor Jessie said:
Right Kurt, I was referring to relocating the uprights on the axle.
Click to expand...

Trevor, that is major!

I would do some careful measuring to see just where the problem is and not be afraid to try and change the angle at which the springs set before working on the axle.

Kurt
 
Rut, Don't try that or you will risk breaking or bending permanently. The Spring Box is welded Top and Bottom to the floor Pan, Bottom Spring Plate as well as Bulkhead and the Floor Stiffener Plate. You can't tweak it without bending / breaking something. That's why loosening those bolts won't do a thing to move the axle. It is supposed to be all welded as a single assembly. Any tweaking needs to be done before welding in place. This will be interesting to measure and make sure things are right before I do the Floor pan Welding on Bugsy.
 
Jim,
Thanks, I'm not going to use enough force to break anything, but there is a little bit of play in the spring to spring box and I want to explore how much. I've loosened the 2 front bolts, the big U bolt, and I will loosen the bolt holding the spring to the axle assembly so everything can move a little bit. Once I'm set to apply pressure I'll make sure I don't damage anything. I'll report back on my success or lack thereof.
Rut
 
Thinking out loud here: What about widening the pocket where the spring mounts into the axle? Then the alignment could be fine tuned with spacers.
 
Actually, since he has aftermarket springs ... that may already be possible.
 
Trevor,

The two bolts that pass through the Spring Mounting Plate also Pass Through the Springs. If you are using the correct bolts there should be no room for anything to move back there. And if you widened mounting holts in Spring Plate they would come lose.
too much force on those bolts. I already had that issue on my '68 where DPO used one size too small a bolt. The entire axle was moving on the Spring Mounting plate, actually the Spring Mounting Plate was moving and wore a 1/2" long V shaped groove in the plate from the Mounting Bolts. The axle would shift going into a RH Turn. Made for some interesting handling until I fixed. Hmmm, BE Spring Plates and Bulkhead Stiffener and Floor stiffener Plates call for being welded in place. Guessing the same should be said for a Spridget with 1/2 Elliptical Springs as well. .
 
Well, I don't remember exactly what I did to the spring mounts but know it didn't take much to affect a considerable movement at the axle.

Kurt.
 
Ok, used the PortaPower between the transmission tunnel and the axle and gently applied pressure. The axle assembly moved into position and I tightened everything up and torqued the nuts and bolts down and released the pressure. The axle assembly shifted about 1-2mm back toward its previous position and I'm very happy with the results! I'm about 2 mm out on the drivers side and everything is tight. The next step is to measure the alignment front and rear and corner to corner to verify that everything is where it should be. I was lucky enough that the friend I borrowed the PortaPower from is a racer and home mechanic and owns an MGB along with several other toys and is very familiar with things like this.
Thanks for all the help and sorry for stealing this thread!
Rut
 
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