Wheel and Axle position

[MichiganTed]

Take a peak at this picture, the wheel doesn't seem to be positioned correctly. It's as if the axle is to far forward on the vehicle. Do you agree? I measured just under 6'-8" for the wheelbase. I'm wondering where to start.

 

[SilentUnicorn]

It looks ok. You are just jacking on the body and the suspension is hanging. When you put it on he ground it it should be fine.


m

 

[JPSmit]

True, first step put in on the ground. However I am also pretty sure the springs are not symmetrical. I think they could be installed backards. (Though am also open to correction)

 

[MichiganTed]

I dropped her on the ground and it pretty much looks the same. There is basically no clearance between the tire and sheet metal (to the front). But I also just noticed the tires are 175 80 B 13's which might explain it. I believe the stock tire is a 145 80, e.g. the 175's are about 1" larger in radius.

So what tire size are folks running with?

(disclaimer in the photo - that is NOT my handy dandy bondo work!)

 

[Jim_Gruber]

If springs weren't symetrical then the rear end would be positioned incorrectly and the driveshaft would not connect.

Tire size 155 x 80 x 13 on Bugsy my '68

 

[Jim_Gruber]

And based on the looks of those tires they will need to be replaced anyway. Replace if date code isa older than 10 years? One of my fellow listers will correct me I'm sure if I'm wrong on that date. Reminds me Bugsy's tires are now 10 years old with < 12,000 miles on them. Fronts are worn and need replaced anyway due to several years of a very misaligned front end. They also are hard as a rock and squeal when I get too aggressive on my cornering. I need something stickier that fits a SWA Sprite but not above $100 per tire which I think Gundy paid for his Dunlops.

 

[Billm]

Jim
The springs are not symmetrical- and the driveshaft uses a sliding spline so it can go on incorrectly which is what I think is going on here. It is only about 2" total difference.
BillM

 

[regularman]

Look at both springs. The front should be the fixed part and the rear goes to a shackle that allows the spring to extend toward the rear of the car as the leaf spring gets weight on it (becomes straighter). As the spring becomes straighter and the front being fixed the rear axle moves backward. Its correct that the axle is closer to the front when the weight is off the springs. If you filled the trunk with bricks and really loaded it down, it would be closer to the back. The idea is with a normal load, its in the middle.

 

[MichiganTed]

Great input, thanks. I just noticed the pass-side has an additional plate between the spring and the U-bolt for what looks like a suspension modification of some kind. But I don't see what was intended to connect to it? God only knows what's been done in the past to this poor car. I think I'll start with a calibrated "Craftsman's" ruler.

 

[nomad]

165-80's are enough to rub so, yes, those are overkill! If you could get pics of the springs and axle attachment that would help.

Kurt.

 

[MichiganTed]

Shackle is verticle and at the rear of the vehicle when sitting on the ground with a 6.0 x 13 tire on the axle (so that seems to be ok). So what's the big fat L bracket below the shock absorber link all about? that ain't stock!

 

[Gerard]

My guess is someone tried to improvise a Panhard bar mount. Looks hideous.

It doesn't look like your spring to axle housing mount is correct either. There appears to be a pretty big gap.

 

[aeronca65t]

I agree: it looks like a crude link for a Panhard rod.I would remove it since it may be somehow contributing to this problem.

The wheelbase of your car is 80" when its sitting on the ground.
In other words, center of front wheel to center of rear wheel should measure 80".

Assuming the front wheels are positioned properly (no excess wear or bent A-frames, etc), you can use this number to check the correct postion of the rear axle centerline.