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Wheel Alignment?

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rlich8

rlich8

Jedi Trainee
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We COMPLETELY rebuilt the front suspension in my TR4a. New bushings, bolts, shocks, etc etc. The only thing not replaced was trunnions and springs - they were both fine.

I know I have to do toe-in, but should I do something more than that? Where can I take this car for a wheel alignment? Does anyone know any places in the Chicagoland area that I can go? Can't seem to find a place in the city proper, would hate to have to venture super far for an alignment. Everyone is scared and says they have no "specs" on the car.

Thanks in advance!!
 
You can do a pretty accurate job of setting toe yourself, and I've adjusted the camber using a carpenter's square and rulers.

The factory manual and the Haynes manual both should have the alignment values, I don't have a copy handy at the moment to look them up.
 
The TR3 I had required 1/16" toe-in, as I recall. Should be similar to yours.

As Darrell said, it's not difficult to do yourself. Drive the car slowly forward a few feet, wheels straight ahead, and stop. Take a measurement at the back side of the tires, centerline to centerline, and sidewall to sidewall, and same at the front, and adjust accordingly.
 
I always do my own -- through the years have used several methods (carpenters' square, spirit level, string, measuring board, set of plates with a tape measure) -- all worked fine, some were faster than others.

A search of the archives will doubtless turn up examples of all the most popular DIY methods. Some thing to know --

Without modification I think the only thing you will be adjusting on a 4A will be front toe-in. Unless there is accident or other damage that is likely all you need to do. You will want correct tire pressure (whatever you think that is) in before you begin. You want to roll the car to the position where you will measure each time (not lower it to that position after having it raised to adjust tie-rods, etc.).

Actually takes only a few minutes once you get the hang of it and there is no real reason to raise the front to adjust the tie-rods a bit if the parts are easily loosened. What can take a bit of practice is knowing (guessing) how much to turn a tie rod to get a particular correction. But the process is trial & error so you get the needed practice pretty quick.
 
Geo Hahn said:
Without modification I think the only thing you will be adjusting on a 4A will be front toe-in. Unless there is accident or other damage that is likely all you need to do.
Click to expand...

The camber is adjustable via shimming the lower brackets. But you are right, if it was correct to begin with, just rebuilding the suspension should not change it.
 
Fair enough - sounds good guys. Thank You.

Didn't really drive it enough before I rebuilt the front suspension so I'm unsure as to whether it was OK or not.
 
I have a diagram somewhere if I can dig it up I'll post it for you. Think it might be on my PC at home.
 
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