-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Whats the Proper Way to Remove Tie rods on AH BJ8?
- Thread starter 67BJ8
- Start date
Share this page
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
I've removed them a couple of different ways without damage to them (or me).
The tie-rod "clamp-type" remover is good to apply moderate force on the bolt, then with a pair of nearly equal sized hammers, smack two (2) sides of the arm portion simultaneously. This works without fail for me every time, sometimes without using the clamp.
Heat is another option, most successful when used with the same clamp. I don't recommend heat if you're planning on reusing the rubber boots.
Dry-ice and the clamp is yet another option.
For me, the pickle-fork approach is a last resort.
Try the simultaneous hammer trick :wink:
The tie-rod "clamp-type" remover is good to apply moderate force on the bolt, then with a pair of nearly equal sized hammers, smack two (2) sides of the arm portion simultaneously. This works without fail for me every time, sometimes without using the clamp.
Heat is another option, most successful when used with the same clamp. I don't recommend heat if you're planning on reusing the rubber boots.
Dry-ice and the clamp is yet another option.
For me, the pickle-fork approach is a last resort.
Try the simultaneous hammer trick :wink:
germanmichel
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Hello 
,
I know this challenge...for me is the only proper way to use a very cheap aftermarket tool (or professional tool) like this:
https://img.westfalia.de/media/show_image.php?datei_id=84006&max_x=600&max_y=600
Sometimes you have to modify the mouth clearance of the tool a little bit with grinding.
To work with this tool is imho the only way, to do not destroy the thread or forming the bolt with a hammer.
In my experience I expand the tool and additional I have to give a hit on the tool. Than hopefully it should make "plong" and the connection is open.
The fork has the risk to damage the elastic cover. Heat is also not the professional way....
Additional you can use the tips from Randy.
Bye Michel- who is Made in Germany
,I know this challenge...for me is the only proper way to use a very cheap aftermarket tool (or professional tool) like this:
https://img.westfalia.de/media/show_image.php?datei_id=84006&max_x=600&max_y=600
Sometimes you have to modify the mouth clearance of the tool a little bit with grinding.
To work with this tool is imho the only way, to do not destroy the thread or forming the bolt with a hammer.
In my experience I expand the tool and additional I have to give a hit on the tool. Than hopefully it should make "plong" and the connection is open.
The fork has the risk to damage the elastic cover. Heat is also not the professional way....
Additional you can use the tips from Randy.
Bye Michel- who is Made in Germany
JamesWilson
Yoda
Offline
The issue is whether you want to reuse them. If so then hammers, forks and heat can be trouble; and the tool suggested is better, low impact approach.
Offline
Don't use a fork unless only as a last resort because you will tear the rubber boots(I have two forks now safely out of my reach). There are tools made for this that are shown or described that work much better, (I'd like to see a you-tube video of Randy's assault on a tie rod with two hammers simultaneously hitting the tie rod...LOL). Once you get the tie rods off you need to check the boots and "springs" that hold them on. The boots are avialable and the springs are not(or at least I can't find them), but they be replaced with an "O" rings.67BJ8 said:
Patrick
Legal Bill
Jedi Knight
Offline
Harbor Freight, if I'm not mistaken.
nevets
Jedi Knight
Offline
Those front end tools are widely available...Harbor Freight as good as any. I bought a kit of front end tools for under $100 on eBay, which included the one pictured previously. If you replace the boots, buy them from Norman Nock/British Sports Car Specialists. I initially bought some from one of the big suppliers and the quality was poor.
Legal Bill
Jedi Knight
Offline
I was just on the Moss site and I saw they have them too.
tahoe healey
Yoda
Offline
When you order form BCS,and many others, ask if you are getting parts that are not from Moss. They are a Moss distributor so you could be getting the same parts as Moss sell. BCS is a very supplier and stand behind what they sell. They have many quality used parts too.
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
The problem would be holding the two (2) hammers AND a video camera... :blush:Patrick67BJ8 said:
Offline
Helmet with camera mounted could work(bikes have them, but who's going to volunteer to hold the tie rod while you swing both hammers??Randy Forbes said:
Patrick
Randy was right!!!!!
I went to Harbor Freight and bought a "ball joint separator" for 20 bucks. It looks like the one in the link above. I tightened up on the ball joint with it and hit the idler arm with a ball pein hammer. The ball joint came loose with a loud pop. I talked to an ex army mechanic and he said that most of the time he gets ball joints loose by smacking them with a 3 lb. ball pein hammer that sets up a vibration and makes them pop without using any kind of puller. I am still trying to get the bolts holding the idler onto the frame loose. Love those Brits for using dissimilar metals together.
Larry
I went to Harbor Freight and bought a "ball joint separator" for 20 bucks. It looks like the one in the link above. I tightened up on the ball joint with it and hit the idler arm with a ball pein hammer. The ball joint came loose with a loud pop. I talked to an ex army mechanic and he said that most of the time he gets ball joints loose by smacking them with a 3 lb. ball pein hammer that sets up a vibration and makes them pop without using any kind of puller. I am still trying to get the bolts holding the idler onto the frame loose. Love those Brits for using dissimilar metals together.
Larry
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
The tie rods don't need holding, they're stuck on the car; if they weren't, the hammers could stay in the drawer :wink:Patrick67BJ8 said:
tahoe healey
Yoda
Offline
Yes, and it is out tax dollars to replace the parts. Go Army!