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what's that clunk?

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Here's a pic of my carb, it is running rich, with a nice exhaust leak at the downtube, po told me that it his brother built the engine with a cam so it has a lope, runs strong, has some small backfires when decellerating from 5k rpms. Is this the stock carb? do you like the heater hoses with bolts? Thanks for you replies.
 

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I would say that you found a very good potential "clunk"!
Your car will leak a lot less oil when you hook those carbs up for PCV.
(We can explain what that means/how to fix it if you don't already know)
Bi8llM
 
I would very much appreciate a tutorial on what my carb needs to run right. the pic is the rear wheel well, not sure what the arm is called, part of the suspension visible when the car is lifted off the ground, in front of the rear wheel. thanks, Chris
 
The bushing on your radius arm is shot. The bushings can be replaced. Looks to me like that could certainly make a noise as it slops around.
 
i have not been able to find a schematic for the carbs, so i'm unable to figure out what's missing or just plain hooked up wrong. i'm interested in the pcv comment earlier, if you couldn't see the oil on the garage floor, seems to br coming from between the motor and trans. i've also noticed oil around the top of the valve cover, not in a specific area, just a thin film all over. i noticed a radiator cap leak after the first few days of owning it with some slight overheating. i replaced the cap with the standard 7psi cap and it still leaked. i ordered another cap for the reservoir and a 7psi cap didn't fit. it had a 15psi cap. i assumed that i want my reservoir cap to be a lower psi than my radiator cap so i just clipped off the spring on the 15psi cap and put it back on the reservoir. it hasn't leaked since. anybody see any problems with that? and it seems if i straightened out the supports for the canvas top it would line up with the stitching and fit better, are they supposed to be bent? thanks for any knowledge you can pass on. Chris
 
Yep, that will clunk. That castle nut's going to be bastard tight too. Here's a photo of mine on my bugeye before I removed it ARM the PO has even welded a patch on it. AHAHAH! :pukeface: I just binned it & brought a new one. For the cost of the bush & the aggro of getting it out. Thoe other end is probably as bad & perhaps the other side.
Do both of them & the back end will stop waving about so much. :driving:
 
Definitely check the rear shock absorber mounting bolts for tightness. When you have the rear wheels off the ground grab the shock and see if you can rock it back and forth. Any movement will produce a clunk. If the bolts are tight and there is still movement the next step is to check the mounting holes in the shock body for wear. They will wear oversize and oval. At this point you have 3 options. 1, buy new shocks. 2, try and sleeve the worn holes down to the original diameter bolt. 3, drill out the holes and fit the next larger diameter bolt. Try a metric bolt. I think they are fractionally larger than the original spec bolt and hopefully you won't have to run a larger drill bit thru the holes. I did #3 on my bugeye last summer. Worked great not a sound since. From your photo, the bushing on the trailing arm appear to be perished. New bushings will eliminate a prime clunk producer.
 
rightlane said:
i have not been able to find a schematic for the carbs, so i'm unable to figure out what's missing or just plain hooked up wrong. i'm interested in the pcv comment earlier, ....
Click to expand...

Do you have a Haynes or Bently manual yet? Good investment.
Mine is too early to have that emissions stuff on it so can't help much, others will chime in shortly. Basically those two center Y hoses are supposed to tie in with a crankcase vent system, a "gulp valve" or some type of PVC valve, another line to the timing chain cover and or valve cover.....all this lets the engine breathe, release crankcase pressures otherwise oil gets pushed out places it wouldn't normally, although it will likely leak a little from somewhere. I even put a breather hose/vent on the block where the mechanical fuel pump would otherwise be, I think by the time they were making your block they stopped making that "hole" though. (you can see my Moroso vent and the hose heading down under the manifolds (its red) in the picture I posted back around post 4).
Anyway, you'll need to get something rigged up for proper venting/oil control, not sure if it will effect running or not.
It was also mentioned that the fuel lines heading into the bottom of the cars are "wrong", usually those are not standard fuel lines like that, as I understand it. Someone with more knowledge will join in, my earlier carbs are different enough that I should shut up.
Hold on, is this a 1098 or a 1275? The carbs are certainly later than '63 but what's the engine? Did I miss it? Maybe you do have the fuel pump spot, heck maybe you still have a mechanical pump?
 
I dumped my twin carbs in favour of a single HIF44. much better carb, no balance problems, capable of supplying enough fuel/air mix for 100hp
 
just picked up a haynes manual off CL for $5! it is a 1098 with a buzzing fuel pump in the trunk. i leaned the carbs out yesterday and seems to be running better, is my best access to the exhaust leak to pull the carb shield off?
 
I wouldn't do that if I had any other choice. You could easily cause vacuum leaks on the carb assemblies if you do that.
Assuming that it is a 1275 with a 1275 exhaust manifold (w/3 vertical screws to the exhaust pipe) then it could easily be just loose screws. If it is a 1098 exhaust manifold then it could easily be the clamp at the same place (2 horizontal screws and a funny clamp).
Which type do you have?
BillM
 
Stock exhaust manifold? Tighten up at the head too. I've got a Pacesetter header and (due to differences in flange thickness compared to the intake) it is hard to keep it sealed there. 1098 you could vent the mechanical fuel pump blanking plate spot like I did, but I'd wait until you've got the other venting stuff sorted. Good catch on getting the best year for Midgets...no door handles, side curtains, chrome bumpers, front disc brakes, long stroke 1098.....others may disagree but, they've been wrong before.
 
Radius arms need new bushings, you will need four. Cheep enough.
 
Yes! Look on the left side bar for "supporting vendors". The Autoist! (Tony is a long-time regular here!)
 
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