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What's needed for the 1275 swap

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drooartz

drooartz

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Okay, here's the money question. After another great drive around town in the Tunebug, I'm committing myself to the 1275 swap. No cash yet, but I figured I'd get the list of needed items together. Also, the new Drew was asking a similar question, so I figured I'd start a new thread.

I'm starting with a stock Bugeye. What do I need to acquire to complete the switch? Is there any good documentation on the web already about this?
 
Engine, web cage trans....hehehehe

Radiator?
 
Web cage, I love it Tony!

Do you want to do disc brakes, dual masters etc?

Or just the engine swap?

Patrick
 
Just starting with the engine/transmission swap for now. Brakes may come later, but the drums seem to stop the car fine now. One thing at a time.
 
Misspoke that one didn't I? hehehehehe

There's a couple of people who would use that to say I don't know of what I speak....

"Rib cage"
 
There are always a list of sundries required when changing out a motor, but no big ticket items. Unless you want to switch to a 3.9 rearend at the same time. But even those can be found cheap.

So are you wanting a list like: clutch, throwout bearing, radiator hoses, engine mounts, etc?
 
and I guess for me to get started I need a non-rusted 62 with a paint job!! Do the sensors/connectors for the guages connect between cars/engines?

- Drew Z.
 
Oh forgot, you will need a rear drive generator, bugeye or an elec Tac. for a 1275 generator. The early one will work fine.
 
Trevor, that's the list I'm looking for. I'm hoping to eventually find a complete 1275/ribcase, and want to make sure I get all the right bits. Don't have any idea what I would need to change to make it work.

Tom, very funny... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Thanks, Tom. I've got my eyes out around here--no rush, just looking for a good deal (and saving my pennies).
 
[ QUOTE ]
Misspoke that one didn't I? hehehehehe

There's a couple of people who would use that to say I don't know of what I speak....

"Rib cage"

[/ QUOTE ]
Not to worry, Tony. Back when I started, they were commonly referred to as "Web Cages". I didn't start using the term "rib case" until a few years ago, and still use the two interchangeably. Must be an age thing.
Jeff
 
For the trans: Throwout bearing, bolt, mount, clutch fork.
You will need a radiator because your temp gauge plugs into the engine, not the radiator like on a 948 (or at least a pressure tested bolt with the same thread to go in the temp sender hole.) Rad is a cross flow, not a downflow and it is slighlty bigger.
Your top hose from the thermostat comes into the rad on the port side, the 948 rad comes in on the starboard side, so if you're not getting a new radiator, some considerably longer hose might work instead.
Your water pump and thermostat point to the port, and all the gubbins for a cooling system isn't that expensive, so I'd recommend that.
What about an oil cooler?
 
I've seen several 1275's with downflow radiators, and I've been told that they cool the engine without any problems.
 
The direction of flow isn't my concern as much as it is the temp gauge. I'm not sure if the existing one is calibrated to read temps below the thermostat as opposed to the top of the radiator, it's just a thought that going with a 1275 should, for best results as they say, go with what's different.
I switched these two engines (and trans) on a mini once, apart from the obvious transverse attitude, there were few problems. The dnflow radiator was left in and I agree, wasn't a problem with cooling (or hoses as the engine was 90 degrees in my favor.)
 
Drew if you ask me, I would say get yourself a 1275 donor car. You should be able to find one worth the money that will have everything you need on it and even somethings you may want to use later like disc brakes etc. A donar car will also give you a look at seeing how things in 1275 car are hooked and help you with the conversion. What you don't use off the donor when you're done, ebay to lower your overall expenses.
 
I agree with Hap and the donor car.

I’ll take a stab at this. I’ll assume that you are going to freshen up the new engine so I won’t go into gaskets and seals etc. but be sure to install a new oil pump since it is difficult to change in the future.

1275 engine with intake, HS2 carbs and distributor with matching vacuum advance (ported or manifold). I wouldn’t worry about the mechanical advance curve too much because at this point the springs are usually worn out and different than factory. If fitted with a smog pump remove all equipment and plug the head with 7/16-20 bolt cut down to 3/8” exposed thread and use front caliper banjo bolt washers as a gasket. Since you don’t have calipers you probably don’t have any old ones laying around, but Autozone and the like have them in the Help section.

I think you can swap over the thermostat housing from the 948, but you may need one from a 1098. They changed the housing when they went to the 1098 and I’m not sure why, but I assume it was for thermostat clearance and better flow. They will bolt up for sure, but I’ve only made the 948 to 1275 swap with a blanking sleeve. If anyone has more detail please post. Plug the temperature sensing port in the 1275 (I have a plug if you need the size). Use the BE fan and radiator.

Swap the generator over from the 948 to the 1275 and keep the mechanical tach drive. You just rebuilt the generator and the electric tach guts need to be swapped into the BE tach body so I don’t think it is worth it to go electric.

Use the 1275 exhaust manifold. You will need a new exhaust system since the tubing is different. A header is an option of course, but doesn’t sound like it fits your theme.

Again, I’ll assume you are going through the transmission, at least pull the inspection cover and check the gears. If you want to be safe do bearings, layshaft, 1st and the reverse idler. This should get you 90% there. You should be able to reuse your slave cylinder.

What did I miss?

Edit:
Get a low pressure electric fuel pump and mount it near the tank. You can power it from the coil / ignition circuit via a relay.
 
another vote for a donor car! makes life so much easier when you can see it al together, and as was mentioned, you can use it eventually for brake upgrades and other changes then sell off the rest...
 
Also, you can park the donor car next to TuneBug and you and your wife can have "vrooom-vrooom!" races.
 
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