What Would You Buy

[Brosky]

I like the TR7/8 conversion. IF and only IF I did a Triumph again, half of the reasoning for the TR8 would be comfort and room and that car has both, plus performance as wild as you want to make it.

The other half is listening to the engine in Woody's TR8 at every show.

 

[Guest]

:laugh:

 

[glemon]

Lots of choices depends on what you want, TR6 as mentioned is a good choice.

But it dpends on what you want, more classic older british, maybe a driver MGA.

Something to drive to work on occasion and not worry if it rains, maybe a TR7 or 8, or B or B GT

Something fun to drive and maybe autocross--Maybe a Jensen Healey.

Also what do you want--highway cruiser (TR6 with OD) or roller skate (bugeye)

Lotus Europa??

Fun to think about anyway, lots of choices.

 

[DougF]

I spoke to an import (former MG/Healey Dealer) shop owner today about this. I mentioned the Europa, and he asked me why on earth would you want to do that? We started talking engine transplants etc. So my thoughts are leaning away from Lotus. Though a twin cam would be quite interesting.
The Bugeye I was eyeballing has a few too many mods. It would be a great car, but doesn't fit into what I want.
The '72 TR6 looks like it would be a wonderful project for somebody, OD and a straight looking car. With the price, it would be extremely tempting if I didn't already have two projects and a '72 TR6.
I appreciate the thoughts and ideas.

 

[toysrrus]

Hi Doug,

For whatever its worth.

An "MGA" is quite a simple car to work on. They are appreciating like its going out of style!

I did a Body-Off on a `58. Bought it off a relative for $500.00. Sold it for $8K - 2yrs later in a million pcs. Some parts completed but mostly un-finished.

As I`m sure your aware; Nice examples are selling in the low teens to upper $20K bracket.

Take a peek at ebay & buy a "Decent Driver" in your price range.

Whatever your choice is; "HAVE FUN".

Regards,

Russ

 

[billspit]

If I had some money floating around to buy an LBC with, I think I would go for a TR8 at this point. Still affordable, more modern than the alternatives, a V8 and the potential to escalate in value. A second may be a TR7 for which I would try to find a Sprint cylinder head. That makes it almost as strong as the 8.

I still love the looks of the TR6 and the TR3. Had a 3 and loved it, Sold it in a moment of weakness. They are too expensive and primitive for me to consider now.

I have 2.5 Spitfires. While neat little cars, but as they are, they are not road cars. I have a 1980 that I am trying to put a 3.63 rear end in with a Ford Type 9 trans. That may do it.

I've also always had a soft spot for the early chrome bumper MGBs, especially the 67. These days they are either a rust bucket or a lot of $$$.

 

[DrEntropy]

I spoke to an import (former MG/Healey Dealer) shop owner today about this. I mentioned the Europa, and he asked me why on earth would you want to do that? We started talking engine transplants etc. So my thoughts are leaning away from Lotus. Though a twin cam would be quite interesting.

Ah-AHEM! mmmm... Just WHO does this guy think he IS?!?! Some kinda Lotus <span style="font-style: italic">expert</span>? :shocked:
Sellin' and fixin' BMC's offerings and bad mouthin' Sir Colin's fine creations is a "pot-kettle-black" circumstance!

Just what advice did you get as objection to Lotus ownership?

 

[DougF]

Doc, no names, but I think you know the guy. Some of his comments were in jest. We just talked Europa. Renault engines were the main topic. He thought a WRX motor would make it a very interesting car.
There was a twin cam in for service, a very nice looking car. "What is behind me, does not matter" from the movie Gumball Rally truly fits the Europa...since you can't see it anyways.
I would have concerns about PennDot, ground clearance and fiberglass.
The only thing he said about Elans is "They go like stink".

 

[Guest]

Having done last year what Doug is trying to do, I can tell you that you don't go out looking for an LBC to purchase, fix up and sell for a profit, <span style="font-weight: bold">It finds you</span>. I was at the time only looking for a TR6 and had a budget of up to $12K just to have a TR6 again after many years. While perusing Ebay one night, I saw a 77 Spitfire in pieces for sale from a body shop in the Chicago area. Freshly painted with OD and hardtop. $2500 <span style="font-style: italic">buy it now</span>, I couldn't resist even though I had no intention's of buying a Spitfire or anything but a TR6. I shipped it to New England, put it all back together, replaced a ton of rubber parts that were all dry rotted. It happened to be an original 12K mile car with zero rust. I made about $5K profit on the car only because it needed NO body, engine, or transmission work. Any one of those 3 could have potentially sucked the profit margin out of the equation. If you have the money in hand and ready to go, don't rush or be limited to one model of car. You'll know it when you see it. In a sluggish economy like it is now, cash is king. There are a ton of LBC's for sale presently, it's a buyer's market.

.

 

[Mkutz]

Don't hestitate looking nationally to buy a non-rust bucket and spend $800 or so on a tractor trailer transport...ultimately it is much cheaper than the costs of metal, bodywork and paint associated with salt-belt cars. I've got a TR3 and an MGA, so you know where my vote would be.

 

[DNK]

I've been kicking around the thought of buying a nice runner that I could do minor fix up, enjoy, and eventually sell...hopefully making a couple bucks.
I've been looking at just about anything British, Bugeyes, MGA's, TVR's, TR8's, etc. Price ceiling would be 10-12k, so exotics, Tigers and big Healeys are pretty much out of the picture.
Any thoughts?

Lotus Cortina

 

[tosoutherncars]

(...) I made about $5K profit on the car only because it needed NO body, engine, or transmission work.

Don't hestitate looking nationally to buy a non-rust bucket and spend $800 or so on a tractor trailer transport...ultimately it is much cheaper than the costs of metal, bodywork and paint associated with salt-belt cars.

Excellent advice... Rust is the enemy, and turns even the most quickly-appreciating models into money pits. Please, please don't ask me how I know. (Failed '67 P1800 rustbucket project... early VW Rabbit resto in progress)

 

[RobT]

Doc, no names, but I think you know the guy. Some of his comments were in jest. We just talked Europa. Renault engines were the main topic. He thought a WRX motor would make it a very interesting car.
There was a twin cam in for service, a very nice looking car. "What is behind me, does not matter" from the movie Gumball Rally truly fits the Europa...since you can't see it anyways.
I would have concerns about PennDot, ground clearance and fiberglass.
The only thing he said about Elans is "They go like stink".

Love it though I do, have to admit the Europa's are not really a "daily driver", but by golly, it is fun! And a bit quirky, but not that difficult to work on. The biggest issue with buying a Europa seems to be the PO's. A lot have been really buggered about with, or have been tracked. Finding a clean, unmolested example, or one that has had a "sympathetic" restoration would seem to be the key.

As Don suggested - a Lotus Cortina would be a blast. Or what about a Volvo? Reliable and sturdy. A P1800 would be sooo cool, or even a 122 "Safari". These even shared parts with LBC's - SU carbs, Laycock O/D. The bodies for the early P1800's were built by Jensen.

Rob.

 

[IanF]

I agree with Stirkle. If one of your primary goals is profit (or at least breaking even) then keep a 100% open mind towards anything. And I mean anything... LBC... US... Euro... Asian... anything...

Volvo 1800's are good choices if you can find one that's rust free (VERY important) and just needs cosmetic work. The drivetrain is more or less bulletproof. Design-wise, if you're used to working on LBC's, the an 1800 won't seem foreign. Especially, the earlier carb'd cars. Upon completion, they make an excellent GT cruiser in stock form and a passable sports car with some subtle (and generally period-correct)modifications.

I agree a "real" Cooper will be out of your price range. I rarely see them for under $20K. A real S is pushing $30K now. Good Mini's have been steadily climbing... but you can find decent ones for around $6K if you look long enough. It's a weird market, though... as there are so many variations and states of tune. And for the most part, unless the object in question is a certified Cooper or Cooper S, originality doesn't mean as much.

I also have a failed 1800 rust-bucket project... and I'm currently planning to take delivery of a '79 Spit6 in a couple of weeks... and hopefully sell the Volvo.

 

[DrEntropy]

Doc, no names, but I think you know the guy. Some of his comments were in jest. We just talked Europa. Renault engines were the main topic. He thought a WRX motor would make it a very interesting car.
There was a twin cam in for service, a very nice looking car. "What is behind me, does not matter" from the movie Gumball Rally truly fits the Europa...since you can't see it anyways.
I would have concerns about PennDot, ground clearance and fiberglass.
The only thing he said about Elans is "They go like stink".

I truly assumed the jest in the first place Doug. :wink:

We ~polluted~ western PA with Europas back in the mid and late '70's. :smirk:

If it's who I THINK it is, you got some straight talk, BTW. And if it ~is~ who I think it is, he's also actually a friend of mine. But as you've stated... no names. :wink:

 

[TRDejaVu]

Also what do you want--highway cruiser

Maybe I look at this hobby differently, but if I want a highway cruiser then I will use a modern car; that's not what these cars were designed for.

What I want is something that is different from the bland-mobiles that are produced today (I can't afford the cool cars). A smooth ride is not what does it for me. Give me something that has no electronics to con me into thinking that I am a good driver. I want something that takes a bit of skill to drive properly as I wind through the twisty country roads at a high rate of knots. I want to feel the road through my seat and smell the engine getting hot.

As to the TR8 convertible, it finally became the car that the TR7 should have been from the start (I know that is not an original line); a rag top with a decent engine. The only trouble is that I cannot get past the vast expanse of cheap plastic that makes up the dash. I am not one for religiously staying original, so is there an after-market dash that can replace the late 70s chic, but not make it look boy racer? If there is then the 8 goes onto my affordable wish list.

 

[Guest]

You can get a wood dash kit (no kidding).
PO put one on mine.

It's exactly as it sounds. Peel and stick...

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]The only trouble is that I cannot get past the vast expanse of cheap plastic that makes up the dash.[/QUOTE]

You won't be driving and paying attention to the dash, just occasionally looking at the tach. After 5 miles of pushing that V-8 around, you'll forget all about the plastic.

 

[swift6]

I've been following the thread and have to agree with all the votes for the TR8. They are likely to increase in value and you can get a really nice example for 10-12k. The V8 is addictive. Handles better than any other TR, MG, Healey etc... while maintaining a very comfortable ride. Is very easy to cruise the highways with if needed. They will clip along at the speed limit without breaking a sweat and still have plenty of power to pass anything that holds you up. The boot is of a very use able size and the V8's still get respectable fuel mileage.

Originally the TR7 was to have three engine options. The base 2.0 litre, the 16V and the V8. In order they would have been the TR7, TR7 Sprint and TR7-V8. Best laid plans and all that nonsense with strikes, Rover not wanting to share the V8 etc... and the rest is fairly well known. Over 100k TR7's, less than 50 factory built TR7 Sprints and less than 3k factory built TR7-V8's, re-named as the TR8 due to all the well known early TR7 issues.

A quick few words on the Sprint conversion. More than just the head is needed to get it all to work. Also, while the HP might be close to the stock TR8 rating, the torque is no where near it. The torque/hp curves are very different too.

 

[DrEntropy]

DOUG!!! Clean out your PM files!!!

"User is over message limit" ! :wink: