What water pump to use

[mallard]

I need to order a new water pump fro the Tr3 and was wondering what everybody was using. It seems there are a lot a quality issues with some of the pumps. 4 vane or 6 vane. I heard the 6 vane moves the water to fast thru the radiator. The cheaper replacement pumps without the grease fitting use a weak pully shaft that will bend or break. Then there is someone on ebay selling one for $159.00 (expensive). He states his have been used in racing with great success. He also states the four vane impeller is much better than the 6 vane. Is his worth the extra money? Can I get the pump that I have rebuilt? The engine is being built to a stock configuration with small improvements to the head.

 

[TR3driver]

Keith, I can't really help with which one to buy. I bought a couple of the 6 vane variety from BFE when they first came out, but then I found my overheating problem and they are still on the shelf. My 'cheap' 4-vane with the fixed pulley and no grease fitting was on the 3A for perhaps 100,000 miles and still no signs of trouble when it got wrecked. I would have moved it to the project TR3, if it's pump didn't look fine, too.

And IMO, there is no such thing as moving water through the radiator "too fast". The equation for heat transfer depends solely on temperature gradient and materials involved. If the water moves through the radiator faster, it also moves through the engine faster. The heat transferred from the engine to the radiator doesn't go down.

 

[Moseso]

I got the rebuilt one from the guy you cited on eBay. It's a rebuilt original casting, with a zerk and a stock style impeller. It works fine and doesn't leak. I don't have enough miles on it yet to attest to its longevity -- but I hope to someday. I think I got mine for $129...

 

[Geo Hahn]

One thing to look out for -- I have seen some 4-vane pumps where the vanes are shallower than the original. I have to believe that is a disadvantage. IIRC, these pumps appeared to have iron vanes rather than bronze or whatever the originals were.

Is the 'guy on eBay' the one operating out of Idaho?

 

[Moseso]

The one I meant -- and the one I <span style="font-style: italic">think</span> Keith is citing -- is in Wilmington, Delaware. Here's the link

 

[mallard]

Moseso is correct on the link for the pump. The price is twice as much as all others. It looks like a quality rebuild but $159.00 starting price.

 

[BobbyD]

FWIW.......a friend of mine just put a new Moss (made in China) water pump on his TR250......it failed after a few weeks spewing coolant out the back of the pump. Moss will credit him for the pump but they're out of stock until October as is TRF. He's going to try a VB pump this time.

 

[KVH]

I bought a 5 vane from one of the vendors. Nice sturdy pump, but I'm convinced I run hotter. Maybe it's timing or some other cause, but it's been an issue ever since I put that pump on. My radiator guy who has been in the business for 45 years says he doubts the faster flow would contribute much to the problem, but he did say that if the radiator holds a lot of water relative to the head and block, and if the speed of circulation was materially accelerated, that could possibly be a factor. I could tell he didn't want to opine on magic bullets.

 

[RedTR3]

To add to the survey, I have a cheap 4-vane with fixed pulley from VB, about 10K miles with no problem.

 

[angelfj1]

Keith: This is the one we put in the 3A. During our trials with the test rig the weather was very warm and humid. I parked the "rig" in the sun and let it idle until the small gas can ran dry, maybe 20 - 30 minutes. In addition, considering that the body was not on yet, there was no benefit of ducting through the front apron opening. The engine did not overheat. Of course I have the benefit of a fresh engine and radiator. After she's actually on the road for a while, I hope to write a report.

 

[mallard]

Frank where did you get that pump, and around how much was it? No decission on my part yet what pump to buy. Thanks