TR2/3/3A What to Own?

[ckeithjordan]

Hi to All,

My name is Keith and I'm a newcomer to this forum, though I'm not new to Triumphs. In the early 1970s, I owned a '66 Spitfire (my first car) and then a few years later, a '63 TR3B. I'm now in the initial stages of looking to purchase another TR2 or TR3, which brings me to my question, somewhat philosophical in nature: All things being equal (car condition, price, etc.), is there a "distinct" difference in owning/maintaining/driving a TR2, versus a TR3, versus a TR3A (or B)? I'm certainly aware of the stylistic and mechanical differences, but does that translate into a different owning/maintaining/driving experience among the models? I know that some of you will say, "whichever one you like," but I'm wondering whether there's truly a difference?

Thanks in advance for your input and comments.

 

[Crankshaft]

First of all welcome aboard. Having only owned a TR3B when I was 20 and a TR3A here in my 70s I'm partial to the 3A looks.
Others here will be very open in sharing their advice, however you will end up with one that you like yourself, so happy motoring. Again, welcome.

 

[TR3driver]

Others disagree with me, but I found front drum brakes to be a very disappointing sports car. The single brake light also strikes me as dangerous, considering I've been in several accidents (and my last car was totaled) where the other driver "just didn't see me". But that can be dealt with. Here's what mine currently looks like
https://youtu.be/q4GMcD9DktQ


Other than that, I'd say there's no appreciable difference in driving experience.

 

[Lou Metelko]

Under the skin all of the side screen (TR2 thru TR3B) cars are basically identical. All ride and handle basically the same. Maintenance is also the same as well as the amount of rain leakage! I am not the least bit predudiced but I prefer my 54 TR2 Long Door if for no other reason it is unique on the exterior plus its rareity. A numbers matching car with overdrive wearing its original colors both inside and outsidel should be more expensive to purchase.

Best advice is to find and read many times Bill Piggott's "Original Triumph TR2/3/3A" subtitled "The restorer's guide to all sidescreen models including the Francorchamps, Italia and TR3B". Having read Piggott's book, when you go to check out one for sale you at least will know what you are looking at!

Buy it, love it, drive it and treasure it!

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
54 TR2LD

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Welcome!

For me, I like to "modify" cars to my taste...I don't think I go over the top, and most of my mods are reversible etc...

I think I would be fine "modifying" a TR3/3A/3B.....However, with the TR2 being a much rarer car, I think the more proper thing to do would be to keep it as original as possible...I think with a TR2, you are more of a Custodian of the car.

So, for me in that context, I don't think I would enjoy a TR2 as I would worry too much about being the "Custodian"

Just my 2 cents

Cheers
Tush

 

[CJD]

It's like any vintage car...the latest of the breed is always the most refined (assuming you could even use the word "refined" with these simple cars). So the "B" will have the best brakes, best rear end, a synchro on 1st gear, opening windows, best OD , best engine performance, and...actually...that may be it!?! The TR2 is the least refined, but more rare. The cool thing is ANYTHING you like about ANY year can be upgraded or degraded to get it. A small mouth apron will fit the newer versions. The brakes, engine, tranny can be retrofit to earlier versions. Like Tush says, most of the mods are reversible.

So, if you like driving a lot, just look for one that has what you want and mod it as you repair it along the way, and have fun. If you will only drive to special events, then take the time to find a car with original parts...and have fun!

One thing I will add after many years of restorations (and applies to any old car purchase), buy a car in the best condition you can afford. A fixer-upper will always cost more in the end.

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

I have an early (1959) TR3A (Pre TS60000). It was free. The owner said it was a 1958, and almost nothing on, or in the car, is original to the car. Over 100 different original cars parts were used during the restoration, including the VIN# that made it into a 1959 TR3A. It came in second place in my class when judged at a national event as a concourse correct 1959 (even though I was the only one in my class). It is exactly the car I want, but didn't know it until after I put it together.

My wife and I have driven the car from coast to coast. I wish I could say it has never let me down, but I can say it has never disappointed me.

My advice is that you find any one of them and drive it. Until then, you don't know what you are missing.

Good luck and welcome to the forum.

 

[TimK1955tr2]

At this point, the specific car you drive will matter as well, all things being equal would be hard to find. Does it have 50yo rear leaf springs or brand new ones? A clapped out/neglected TR3B might be much less enjoyable than a nicely set-up TR2 with drum brakes.

Assuming you want to drive and use the car opposed to owning more rare/unique variants, I would narrow my search for any car that has disc brakes and the nicest overall bodywork. TR3A and after have disc brakes, stronger/more common rear axles, and etc.

 

[TR3driver]

TR3A and after have disc brakes, stronger/more common rear axles, and etc.

So do later TR3, like mine. TS13046 is generally given as the change point.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Try several cars, they all will be/handle a little different. Hopefully there will be one that you a have a better feel for.
Marv

 

[Lukens]

I've not met an "A" owner that didn't envy the upgrades of the "B".
Likewise for overdrives.

 

[TR4nut]

I think the 3A vs 3B at this time is a very subtle thing. If you are looking for rarity an original 3B can command a better price but a lot of 3As, including mine are basically 3Bs at this point with larger displacement engines and 1st gear syncros in terms of driveability.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

What Randy said!

Cheers
Tush

 

[Geo Hahn]

Your best value may be a 3A simply because they will be the most common of the sidescreen TRs -- but that is a good thing. Disc brakes are excellent, 1st gear non-syncro is no big deal (in my opinion) and like Randy -- not even Robert Mueller could get me to admit what displacement my 3A really has.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

You can swap trans to full sych for about $300. Doubt you can tell different in engine hp.
Marv

 

[ckeithjordan]

Thanks to all for your comments and opinions!

Lou, I have Piggott's books (I got the first edition back in '91) and have devoured them time and time again.

John, your advice may be the most sage of all, whatever I get, get the best conditioned car for the money. Your threads on the TR2 restoration have me in thrall to your ability to do all those things and thankful there are professionals out there that I can pay to do that for me!

So the search begins (or continues, as I've been looking for a couple of months) to find the TR for me. I'm leaning towards a late '57 TR3 "smallmouth," which has the disc brakes, stronger rear axle and the later rear apron (allaying some of Randall's visibility concerns) in good "driver" condition. I like the earlier styling and colors better (TR3 vs. TR3A), but if the right A or B comes along, well...

Thanks again and I welcome continuing this thread.

 

[Daves1957TR-3]

Keith - the car you describe is exactly what I have. Plus someone put in a later trans so I have the syncro first. But apparently the OD was removed in the process, too bad. But it's a lot of fun, your reasoning is sound, go for it.

Cheers, Dave

 

[sp53]

Whatever you decide try and find something with good sheet metal and frame of course. Have the sheet metal really looked at close.
steve