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What the muck is this? Ewwww yuck continued.

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vping

vping

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If you remember what my needles looked like, https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...true#Post319276 here is the continuing saga.
Front bowl not bad, but dirty. Rear is a whole different story. I could barely get the cover off and when I did, this creature was adhered to the float and started to settle like freshly pulled salt water taffy. This morning the creature is hard and crispy and what remains in the cover is like a very fine clay. Anybody ever seen this?
Also on the rear carb, it looks like the inlet is bent. Is this DPO of factory? Good thing I ordered new cover gaskets.
7-21-07-CarbDisassembly007.jpg

7-21-07-CarbDisassembly008.jpg

7-21-07-CarbDisassembly009.jpg

7-21-07-CarbDisassembly010.jpg
 
Ahem... I told you so..... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
While you have 'em off, solder those silly li'l t-plate poppet valves shut, too.
 
I gotta run over to the d'pot this morning for floor tile so I'mm going to look for parts cleaner. I don't think my store carries it and they might only have Simple green.

Lil poppet valves?
 
On the throttle plates. Clean 'em up at their "mating" surface with the plate using ScotchBrite, flux 'em and solder 'em closed.... this ~IS~ for off-road use only, innit? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

Gallon size Gunk carb cleaner won't be a depot item AFAIK. Pep Boys or the like.
 
As the DR. said, Gunk or Berrymans will be ab PepBoys, Advance Auto, AutoZone or whatever chain is near you. Find the chemical section where the spray carb cleaners are and it will be near there. As I mentioned previously, both products work well at soaking off varnish but the Gunk smells a little better.

I've seen nasty deposits, but your pictures show a worse situation than I've ever dealt with.
 
It's details like this, that I look for in a car. Having the dirtiest carbs is something I hold and will cherrish...always. You should see what I drained from the tank.
 
Well this is a surprise. I decided to pull the carbs off the 74 Junker and amzingly, they are in great shape. The needles look brand new and not the slightest bit of varnish anywhere. It's almost as if the fuel system was drained and then the car was never using again.

Doc. Why close the poppits? Is it for increased performance. I do plan on only having this car for off road purposes. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

7-22-07-74GTcarbs001.jpg

7-22-07-74GTcarbs002.jpg

7-22-07-74GTcarbs003.jpg
 
IF the poppet spring gets weak, it can open prematurely and cause your idle to be too high. It's designed to limit the amount of vacuum that can develop when the throttle snaps shut and thus prevent an overly rich mixture on overrun. They do restrict the airflow very slightly, but unless you're running at WOT and high rpm you're restricting the airflow anyway (that's what the throttle plate is supposed to do -- throttle (restrict) the airflow to control engine speed), so it really doesn't matter that much. If you only solder them shut, they're still hanging in the airflow so you haven't accomplished anything. And since they're doing only something when the throttle is closed, they don't really affect performance (except at WOT as noted above). I'd say that unless the springs are obviously weak, don't bother messing with them. The only real difference you'll likely notice is that with them in place, you'll have slightly less engine braking than if the plates are solid.
 
Everything that was said previously plus..No, it shouldn't be bent - it should be straight!
 
The one off the junker is straight. I'm gonna use those. Now if I submerge these in a "Gunk" bath, do I cut the gunk with water? Do I rinse with water?
 
Dump them in straight undiluted carb cleaner & forget about them for a week!
 
The gallon of stuff I have is engine degreaser & cleaner is that OK?
After a week how do I rinse them off?
 
Engine degreaser is not the same stuff. You need a gallon of the carb cleaner. It's formulated to cut the varnish. The engine degreaser is aimed more at oil and grease.

After several days of soaking in the carb cleaner, use a soft bristle brush to scrub away any remaining stuff, then wipe off the excess fluid. If you have an air compressor blow it all dry.

The following picture loads slowly, but this is the stuff you want for the carbs:
https://users.rcn.com/kochc/moto/carb/crb_cln1.jpg
 
The little hair springs DO weaken, idle will be a pain to set; it's just one less thing to have to do over again. The effect they have on WOT is of little consequence. I suggested sealing them simply to eliminate one of the things that can drive you batty if it malfunctions and is of very little value if actually working as intended.
 
After you posted about it I recall reading it in Peter Burgess' book. I found it and re-read it's amazing the detail he goes into to eliminate any possible deterent to airflow into the carbs. He even shaves the throttle shafts to increase airflow in.
 
That is carrying it a bit far for a daily commuter.
 
Yep, get carb cleaner - & it'll dry right off with air...engine degreaser won't solve your problem.
 
Or DIS-slove it either! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif


....couldn't just let it ~SIT~ there, y'see.
 
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