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what should I look for with an XJ6

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eejay56

eejay56

Jedi Warrior
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My son is interested in this car 1985 XJ6 and I will be going to look at it with him. I know very little about Jags and don't have much more info than what's in the ad. I know what to look for generally in an old Brit but what are the special problems I should look for with this one. Also is the price fair? I know there isn't enough info to answer that question so maybe a better question is what should I expect for this price?
 
the Series 3 XJ-6 (1979½ to 1987) are selling around $12 grand in excellent shape. Price is according to condition. Mine is a 1984 and a reliable car which I have owned for the last 16 years. Not even thinking of selling it. I love the car.

I guess that car must be in terrible shape for $1 grand or it is a steal.

If you're handy, putting the interior back together won't be difficult. Get a Service Manual CD at the Jag Dealer for around $25.

Transmission shifts ok? Engine starts and runs fine? Buy it. No special problems other than serious rusting, all cars are problematic at some point. The late 1983 through late 1985 cars were good years for quality at Jaguar, thanks to John Egan (now Sir John Egan at Aston Martin) who took over quality control. My car is a good example of that.

Just buy the car and fix it nice, for $1 grand and what you put in it after, you can sell it later and recover every cent. The fourth "wannabe" picture with the 18" wheels looks good too!

If you need help with the Defroster Flap Adjustment, let me know. easy to fix, instructions are online.

good luck!
Ex
 
OK, this car could be a little scary. What is apart inside? To remove the climate control box the dash, console etc all come out. It is a 12-15 hour job. It is not all that hard, but if you were not the person that took it apart.....

Check for rust around the front and rear windshields. Lift the carpets and check for rusty floors. Check that the jacking points are still there (on front floor, underneath, look like little Ts) Upholstery is really expensive to replace, but some NOS can be found on Ebay at OK prices
There are plenty of used parts available, and quite a lot is still available from Jag

Finally, ask how long it has been since the car was used regularly. If more than a couple of years, waking it up can also be a project. When right, these cars are great to drive, but like any Jag, owning one can take a commitment.
 
Jesse, this is what the owner says:

"interior partially disassembled to fix the flapper to the defroster vents".

that sounds like he removed the dash cap, (4 phillips screws, remove the corner caps, disconnect two wires to the map light, and disengage the rubber elbow for the in-car temperature sensor from the dash, then carefully pull and lift the dash cap out).

to "fix the flapper to the defroster vents" then requires removing the defroster box/assembly on each side, since the flapper is inside the defrost box, (loosen two screws and disconnect a vacuum hose) to test or replace each defrost box outside of the car. Simple job.

Ex
 
I was thinking worst case scenario.
 
Exotexs,

I will share what happened to me quickly with a 1985 I purchased for about the same money.
I drove the car home from Peoria,Illinois to Columbus, Indiana which was a few hundred miles at 3 AM with a friend following. Except for the exhaust fumes, I was sure I had gotten a steal and loved the charcoal/grey color combo. I noticed a little noise in the rear, figured maybe bad brakes or a shock, something not too horrible. My garage was full, so I took the car to a shop to get a look at the underside, which I couldn't do at the place of purchase. The mechanic friend promptly told me I was lucky to be alive. The rear suspension on all SIII's and I assume most Jaguars is bolted with maybe 8 to 12 bolts to the unit-body under the rear seat cushion. I believe that I had about 4 or 5 bolts which were still attached, or at least not out yet due to the bowl-shaped area (water-trap) where the mounting holes are located on the car. Lifting up the rear seat cushion and check the condition of this area is crucial, as this is a tough repair and dangerous as heck. If you can get under the car, it is a bit difficult to see through the rear suspension, but I would recommend you do both. As far as the gas caps, there is a small hole under the filler lid on each side to allow water drainage. Check to see if these are clogged. They are at the rear center of the oval opening at the lowest point. If they appear blocked or if there appears to be excessive moisture damage in the area, clear the holes and drain tubes and drain the tanks, run some clean fuel through the drain on the tanks then replace the plug. Also, before starting the car, remove the fuel line from the fuel pump and turn on the key and check that nothing but clean fuel is coming through. These steps may save an engine/ fuel injection system if done before testing the car. It is well worth the effort if you are serious about buying the car. Of course, if it is a driver, and has been running prior to your checking it out, do the above as soon as you buy the car. I forgot to mention to replace the fuel filter and run the same check with the outlet fuel line off, do this until you see clean fuel in your jar. I once pumped a gallon of water, rust and very little gasoline out of one tank and was glad I had performed this before the test-drive!
Another that comes to mind is the ignition amplifier and pickupcoil that seem to go quickly and at the same time, in my experience. They may not die at the same moment, but the diagnostics to determine which one is gone may cost as much as just replacing both at once. When these go the car has no spark/firing and must be towed and of course seems to happen far away from home or a European repair shop. If the car you purchase has been in storage a while or is higher mileage and never had these replaced, if time and funds allow consider it for preventative maintenance. It takes a while to get these parts, hardly any local shop would stock them, so if they go you don't go anywhere. And the labor is outrageous on these replacements. My 1986 had 45,000 miles when I had this happen away from home and I believe the parts and labor were over $1200.00. I was stranded though and couldn't do the work myself at that time.
Hope this helps, and by the way, if you get a great deal, there are repair panels for almost all of the trouble areas, even the suspension mount areas (bowls of water) under the rear seat cushion. If you are willing to do the body work, even these seemingly hopeless issues are not entirely the end for the car. With a strong engine and straight body, it would probably pay you back if you sold the car down the road. Just remember the numerous body drains or plenums on the XJ's. If you keep these clear of debris and cover or garage the car when not driving the rust issues can be prevented for years to come. With all of the rusted out XJ's around, even a good bodied car with a shot interior isn't too out of reach. The panels and seats are everywhere, stripped from the cars that the water got the better of, and many of these cars were low-mileage cars with pristine interiors.
The inboard brakes on the rear are a pain, but if you can do them yourself you'll save probably about $1000 in repair bills. The parts are not expensive, but most shops charge around $700 or more for the job in labor alone.
Lastly, the 1985 through 1987 seem to be the least troublesome and most reliable mechanically of the pre-Ford XJ's. Values also seem to be rising as many more are scrapped and parted each year. Just assess your budget, your mechanical skills, work area and tools and choose the car that is within your reach and within your skill range or at least your willingness to learn the repair procedures which that car may need to have performed. Good luck and you will love the XJ6, they are a pleasure to drive, as frustrating as the quirks can be.

Best Regards,
Brian
 
Brian, when buying any old and used car, one inspects everywhere, the Golden rule of Old Car Buying. Obviously you didn't inspect underneath when you bought that car.

the ignition amplifier and pickupcoil, also known as Ignition Module, are General Motors Delco parts, available at NAPA and other auto parts. The XJ-6 is full of GM parts, the A/C compressor, the capillary Expansion Valve at the firewall, the Air Pump, the air pump's check valve, the Ignition Module, the Power Steering Pump, and more, so I think if you buy from the Jag dealer, you'll pay a lot, when you could have gotten the same parts from any auto parts like AutoZone, O'Reilly's, CarQuest, Advance, you name it. It all comes down to learning about the car from other owners who have been there done that.

The Series 3 XJ-6 (1979½ to 1987) is the most refined and "finished" of all the XJ series, that's the one to have.
all the bugs were taken care of.

If the car in question in this thread is a driver (engine runs, transmission works, brakes work, lights work, etc.), then even if it has some rust, (which it does not appear to have based on the seller's description), then I think $1 grand is a steal, even if the a/c does not work, even if it needs some interior reassembly.

I assume all of you clicked on the link above (1985 XJ6) in the first post, and that you saw the ad and the pictures. If not, here it is again.

https://salem.craigslist.org/car/344693561.html

if it was me, knowing what I know, and the car was close to me, I would have run and bought it already. It really looks decent. The repairs that it appears to need are (for me) a piece of chocolate cake.

regards,
Ex
 
Sorry Exotexs,

My post reply was supposed to be addressed to Eeejay56. His original question was I thought a general one regarding common issues in the XJ6 models as well as the one listed in the link. Living in southern Indiana, I was unable to purchase the ignition parts off the shelf. The local chain stores' prices were higher as well for the parts which they could have had in a few days "they hoped". Even though some of the XJ6's components have the AC/Delco name, they are not automatically a common item to stock in this area. If they are shared parts with GM models, the local stores did not act as if I was asking for something that they should have on the shelf.... I'll ask them to cross-reference in the future. I ended up using jagbits for one part and motorcarsltd for the other, getting the best price I could and received both in a few days.

I have noticed the chain stores recently showing many more parts on their websites for the XJ6 and the prices are not as far out of line as they once were. I just replaced the front left brake caliper on the 1975 though, and I believe I saved up to $100 by waiting a day for a small independent european parts store to get the caliper. Napa, Autozone, and Advance Auto could all get the caliper, but at almost double the price and a 3-day wait. Just an example of my local experience. In Florida, XJ6's seem to be more abundant and parts are more likely stocked accordingly.

I agree as to the car in the link "as described". However, not everyone has the knowledge, experience, and foresight to inspect on-site as you described. I have learned to be more careful in checking out a car when buying, but it is not always that practical when you have limited time, may be many miles from home and the car is priced to sell quickly. Good advice though and it should be followed when possible.
 
Brian - here is THE webpage that many XJ owners refer to when needing cross-references for many Domestic Parts used in their Jaguars. (the list is far from complete, there are many more cross-references available in other pages).

I recommend you save this page for future reference, and you can help others with it. Better yet, print it in case it disappears from the web. (I have 6 copies, and one in the car, because you never know).

https://www.jamesburt.com/Jaguar/JagTech/JagTech_Parts_XJ6_Substitutes.html

regards,
Ex
 
I am almost speachless. 1200 bucks for an amp and pickup??? I couldn't look myself in the mirror if I charged my customers something like that. I have always said that there is nothing more expensive than a cheap Jaguar. There can be pitfalls o plenty for the unwary. Series 3 cars are plentiful and usually cheap. There are many many parts cars.There are plenty of people that understand the cars, and are willing to share that knowlege.My initial comments were based on the idea that someone had disassembled the dash to service the climate control unit. This might look scary to someone that was just diving in to Jag ownership. It really is not. These cars are truly hand built, and they can be repaired by any home mechanic with a modicum of talent.Doing so might expand your vocabulary, but when all is said and done, there is nothing like a good Jag. My personal preferance in sedans would be the series 2. I love the chrome door handles, and the roof line. I really want a nice series 2 XJ12. That has to be one of the best all time sedans ever made.Grace, Space, and Pace!!
 
jessebogan said:
I am almost speachless. 1200 bucks for an amp and pickup??? I couldn't look myself in the mirror if I charged my customers something like that. I have always said that there is nothing more expensive than a cheap Jaguar. There can be pitfalls o plenty for the unwary. Series 3 cars are plentiful and usually cheap. There are many many parts cars.There are plenty of people that understand the cars, and are willing to share that knowlege.My initial comments were based on the idea that someone had disassembled the dash to service the climate control unit. This might look scary to someone that was just diving in to Jag ownership. It really is not. These cars are truly hand built, and they can be repaired by any home mechanic with a modicum of talent.Doing so might expand your vocabulary, but when all is said and done, there is nothing like a good Jag. My personal preferance in sedans would be the series 2. I love the chrome door handles, and the roof line. I really want a nice series 2 XJ12. That has to be one of the best all time sedans ever made.Grace, Space, and Pace!!
Click to expand...

Jesse, I had one of those, in the UK. A 1976 XJ5.3L, a wonderful car. I echo your sentiments, it definitely was one of the best!
 
yeahh it seems like the Series II XJ-6 is becoming a favorite all of a sudden, and those are not exactly abundant as the Series III. I think the one to have would be a Series II made in 1979½ when the Series III was started while they were still making Series II. (if anyone can understand what I mean!!)

As for servicing the Delanair III climate system in a Series II or III XJ, I have (in the last 16 years) never heard of anyone having to replace the Evaporator, which would be the reason to remove the entire Delanair unit from the car, which would require a complete dismantling of the dash and the car's interior. I think I would sell the car before I did that. In other words, the car is not worth the amount of money that it would cost to have that work done, I think you can get a replacement car for the cost to R & R the evaporator.

But using my own car as an example, a 1984, I can say that these Delanair units are reliable, and I'm sure there are exceptions as with every car. Well I suppose I got a good one. I'm a happy boy.
 
Jesse said:
I love the chrome door handles, and the roof line. I really want a nice series 2 XJ12. That has to be one of the best all time sedans ever made.Grace, Space, and Pace!!
Click to expand...

The older I get, the more I tend to agree. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
No joke on the repair bill, parts included that I purchased for the shop. I know the place didn't want to do the job but knowing the owner I knew it would be done correctly. I believe at the time, 2003, the parts were over $400 and the labor in the high $700's. As I said, they didn't necessarily both die at once, but I made the choice on his advice to do both (I believe the diagnostics was indicating both AND one or the other was how it was put to me..). I love the SII, the Coupe I have is a head-turner even though in need of new paint. I have a special place for the SIII though and always will be looking for the next. The repair, by the way, had to be done here. The tow bill to Indianapolis or Bloomington wouldn't have kept the cost down any, though I am sure the diagnostics labor would have been less at a Jaguar-friendly shop. I considered it a lesson learned and now tackle these things on my own, have the books, and do the research. I also have a few other cars to rely on so that time allows in those cases. At that point I was using the 1986 daily and working a wide area and couldn't really stop to do the work myself. But many calls around got about the same general range of price quotes, on top of ordering directly through Jaguar which drove the bill even higher.
 
Update: The car is a beauty. It has been well taken care of and I only found one nickel sized rust spot near the rear window. It seems that the dash has been taken apart far more than necessary. Good tires and the full size spare has a matching wheel. It will still be a week or so until my son has the funds for it but I'm hoping the dash condition will scare off potential casual buyers. Interior and carpets are in excellent shape. The headliner needs work though. It started on the first crank and purrs. Time was limited so I have yet to do a detailed inspection of the engine and running gear but I'll keep you posted.
 
Bingo!! by the time you get back it will be gone, if I don't get to it first! (just kiddin'). That's great news, did you leave the owner a deposit to reserve it?? Just pay the man $200. as a good-faith deposit. Ask him for 30 days.

Do you mean the Wood face (fascia) of the dash was removed? or the top, black vinyl Cap ? If the latter, piece of cake. If the wood, it will take more time to reassemble but not that serious of a job.

The headliner is easily redone, once you remove all the bits and trim around it, you end up with a ½ inch thick, slightly flexible, fiberglass form, which will come out of the car through the front passenger side door. The fabric costs around $90.00 plus you'll need two cans of 3M Headliner spray Adhesive. (any autoparts). Pumpkin Puddin'.

the little rust around the rear glass is typical of these cars, easily sanded off, and touched up.

Again, if the car moves under its own power, buy it and run!
I still think it's a steal.

Ex
 
Exotexs,

Thanks for the link on the interchange. Very helpful, and again today, I got the blank stares at Autozone and Advance for any parts I need beyond a plug set, wires and a few coolant lines. I wish I had had the list with me... Looking it over tonight to check air pump and relays, possibly have an alternator going out slowly as well.

In regards to the discussion on the Series II Sedans, I believe in this thread, I ran across these on ebay...

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180134267105&fromMakeTrack=true

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...atchlink:top:us


If the links don't work, the first is a '74 short wheelbase XJ6, near Indy, the second is out East, a 1974 XJ12 which is listed under Jaguar: XJS for some reason. I plan on checking out the one in Indy/Greenwood Indiana this weekend, maybe get a few pics and talk cars. Not ready to buy but it may not sell immediately anyway. Just thought someone may be interested in seeing what is out there.

Best Regards,
Brian
 
if you need a replacement alternator, you'll need a Bracket Kit as well, and in that case, I suggest you go for the GM Alternator Conversion sold by John's Cars in Houston, which I also did to mine. the kit comes with everything needed and detailed instructions. this job will take a whole day, believe me, unless you're a Magician. Don't let anybody tell you that the alternator comes out only through the top, (which entails removal of the A/C compressor). It does come out through the bottom which only entails temporary removal of the "splash pan" and the Sway Bar Links for relatively easy access.

https://www.brokenkitty.com/sedan.html

Ex
 
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