WHAT SERIES BATTERY?

[paulsherman]

I have searched everything and most everywhere and can not find what series battery I need for my Bugeye.

Thank you

 

[Guest]

IIRC, I have a 51 (Honda) battery in my '79.

 

[Billm]

Size 24 or 24F is for everything up to about '70 (or so), size 51 for after that (battery area got smaller).
BillM

 

[Jer]

size 78 fit great in my 67 (should be same as a BE in that area), the later style with different heater box need the smaller "honda" type, which is what I have in my 74 as mentined above.
Check out this old post, we can all save ourselves some time !

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/660113/Re_Which_battery#Post660113

 

[Whitephrog]

24F here

 

[BlueMax]

The 24 series is great for Sprigets but they are a pretty tight fit behind the heater core and they are very heavy, it sure makes a strain on the back removing one!. You can compromise with the 22NF that gives you easier assialbilty and it’s lighter. CC amps are not quite as much but they were OEM equipment in the late model Midgets.

 

[nomad]

Consider the smallest battery that will do the job. Battery's are heavy and in spridgets with stock battery location the weight is placed very high up.
Do what you can to enhance your drives thru the twisties!!! Weight as low as is practical!

Kurt.

 

[regularman]

51r is the common walmart battery. I think it also fits a honda of some kind.
Now, that R mean right for the + of the battery. The other one gets the battery too close to the firewall. Now, what I have done if you can't find one for the right polarity to fit because of positive ground or whatever. Get a brand new battery that fits and put a load on it and run it down flat, then put the charger on the wrong way and it will charge back up that way. This will make the + the - and the - the +. I have had success with this on several things. You just want to mark it good after you do that.

 

[glemon]

This is about as good a deal on a battery as I could find, assuming you don't want to spend a ton, it has good specs, this will be slightly smaller than a Group 24, I have one in both my TR250 and in my modern jap box.

https://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02830127000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

Works fine, they have models with the terminals opposite too, i think the size 26 without the 'R' has the terminals reversed, whichever works best for Spridget.

 

[regularman]

Thing is, with the square bodies, there is only so much room between the heater and the firewall. I think that area is much bigger from bugeye up to the year they changed to the bigger heater housing.

 

[Billm]

Kim
That change was around '70 or '72 or so. The early square nose cars had the same size as the Bugeye
BillM

 

[regularman]

Kim
That change was around '70 or '72 or so. The early square nose cars had the same size as the Bugeye
BillM

My 71 has the big heater, so it must have been 70 or before. I have a heater out of an early square model and it does look exactly like the BE ones. I need to get a list of things people can have for shipping. Very little time.

 

[twas_brillig]

I usually just measure the size of the hole (pretty huge on the bugeye)and look for a battery that'll fit - and has a handle, as it's a bit of a pain to put them in and pull them out even with the handle, and a real pain without.
Back in 73 or so when it was our only car for the winter (and summer), I'll swear that the battery that we had in there was bigger than the engine! So it was real good for winter starts.
Doug

 

[D110]

I know this is an old thread, but I was wondering why the Group 34 batteries are never mentioned - from what I can tell they are the same footprint but shorter by an inch which should make them easier to get in and out. In most of the models I have seen they have just about the same cranking amps and reserve as a group 24. Anyone using a 34?

 

[D110]

In case anyone else is considering different sizes, I ended up going with a Group 35 Optima just because it was lighter than the 34 (easier to get in and out) and better priced, yet still delivered good cranking amps and reserve. There was no battery tie down in the car, so I bought a set of hooks at Napa for $3.00 and fashioned my own out of a piece of aluminum angle stock with a couple of wood stoppers that I cut to fit the Optima. Cut a piece of 1/4 inch rubber for the tray, dipped the hooks in Plasti-Coat, and slapped it together.. probably cost me about $7.00 all in. Lots of room around the battery and easy to get it in and out.




.