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What really is POR 15 ?

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]POR means: "Paint Over Rust", then the instructions say that Rust MUST be REMOVED by etching the metal!!!!???? Doesn't take a lot of IQ to realize you've been taken![/QUOTE]
That isn't a fair statement. The instructions say to remove LOOSE rust. It clearly states that after etching there will be some flash rust, and that this rust will in fact help the POR adhere.

It also states that you can sand down rusty surfaces and apply directly over the remaining surface rust. I haven't tried this but I have no reason to think they would make such a claim if it weren't true. Especially since they have been in business for so long.
 
the bottom line is that you can do all that sanding and you can also Paint Over Rust using none other than RustOleum spray paint for a lot less trouble and cost, and RustOleum will peel just as bad as POR-15 if the metal is not totally rust-free when applied, (rust-free as in sandblasting). The way I see it is: They make the claims they make because nobody with the public's interest in mind has put their claims to the Test, for example Consumer Reports, or the FTC. If any of those put POR-15 to the test, it would show POR-15 does not fully perform as claimed even after following the "instructions" to the letter. Hands-On-Experience is the great Teacher. Anyone can try the product and decide for themselves. I already did.
Ex
 
Actually it has been put to the test. An MGB owner recently posted about painting POR over surface rust with good results. I'll try to find the post so you can check it out. I'm not sure which site it was on but I'll do my best.

Obviously you hate POR15 and that's fine. And fortunately there are a lot of other coatings out there to choose from so you can use whatever you're comfortable with.
 
From what I see POR 15 will encapsolate rust, it keeps air and water away from the metal so it will not rust anymore, as long as it stays sealed,

I do not see that it converts rust, only that it stops rust as long as it keeps water and air away from the metal.

But then again any other good paint is also able to do the same thing....

Just not sure if there is any "magic" in the Por 15 coating, t
thats why I asked about it to start this thread

Beaulieu
 
Beaulieu:
depending on the part itself, the most reliable "sealing" coating is Jet-Hot Coatings ( https://jet-hot.com ) because they can take a badly rusted part and deliver it back to you or me in like-new condition, inside and out, unless obviously it is completely rusted-through, looking like swiss cheese, in which case it won't pay to try and restore it with any product out there.

Steve: I don't "hate" POR-15, it's just that in my experience restoring parts and cars since 1969, I've learned that many products out there are more "marketing hype" than "substance", and my experience with POR-15 showed me that I could have done exactly the same thing with a $2.97 can of RustOleum spray paint, and it would have flaked or peeled in the same way, in the same amount of time. Paint is Paint is Paint, no matter how you mix it or market it. For a change from Paint coatings, try a Ceramic and Silver mix coating from Jet-Hot, you'll understand me then.
Ex
 
I've used POR 15 for years without any problem. I've painted engine blocks, rusty floorboards and complete interior tubs with the stuff and have yet to see any rust years later. I've never been too thorough with the prep either and painted the engine block in place after degreasing and the paint adhered perfectly. The floorboards were pin holed so I used some fine fiberglass matting soaked in POR 15 black and they turned out rock hard and adhered perfectly to the contours of the vehicles floor- no problem 3 years later.
I'd suspect that individuals that had problems had a hidden issue...brake fluid (poss 5) permeated calipers that did not allow the stuff to bond.
You must stir the stuff, not shake the can, or you'll get bubbles (pimples?) suspended in the paint.
Great stuff.
 
No I haven't but the stuff is difficult to remove so maybe I'd use a more conventional paint.
As an aside I've used POR15 clear over purposely rusted sheet steel in my homes shower. I wanted something unique so rusted the steel (no prep) painted with clear and lined the shower with it, it looks like an art piece and is constantly wet and 4 years later no rust thru.
 
Polycarbonated isocyanate, Hmmmmmmmmmm Sounds like por15 is BASICALLY colored super glue!

God forbid, you use it on a floor pan then have to use a torch to remove part of the same pan to do a repair.

Seeing how it does have isocyanate in the mix, I deffinaltely would not heat it up enough to make fumes.

And by all means I don`t want it on my hands

I say IF you are going to use it, do so in a VERY WELL ventelated area.

ANYTHING that contains isocyanate in the mix, IS a very effective carcinogen.

Sounds like a very close cousin to the C.A.R.C. paint the military uses.

USE IT WITH EXTREME CAUTION!

No pros No cons! Never have used the stuff and most likely won`t!

I suggest you look up the M.S.D.S. on it and do a chemical breakdown then M.S.D.S. EACH chemical and see what the health risks are! You probably won`t like what you see.

Kerry
 
I considered POR15 for protecting parts that were attached to my TR3A frame, but finally decided to use a competitor call KBS Rust Seal. It is slightly less expensive, is also distributed by web mail order, and I suspect that it contains pretty much the same nasty stuff as POR15. In any case, we blasted our parts at home and coated with KBS. You can skip the degreaser and etcher prep stuff for parts you blast and just go right to the KBS. The stuff is like thick paint and will stretch forever - we coated all frame-attached suspension parts, leaf springs, diff, and a bunch of smaller stuff with a single quart and have paint left over. It took less than a quarter of a small dixie cup of paint to completely redo all front suspension parts on one side of the car, so be careful not to overestimate how much paint you need at a time or it will be wasted. I recommend using paper cups and throwaway foam brushes. Also, don't get this stuff on your skin and let it dry or its there for weeks. When preparing to paint, dip out the paint from the can (stirred, not shaken!) with something you can throw away - the idea is to avoid getting any paint on the can rim. If you do, and you put the top back on, it's there to stay. I put a layer of plastic wrap over the mouth of the can before tapping the lid back into place and this works fine - have now opened and closed the can about eight times. I wear a pair of typical latex shop gloves when painting to keep this stuff off my skin.

Bottom line is I am a very happy camper and would recommend KBS. Hard as nails when dry. I took a suspension part and banged it against our workbench a few time with no discernible marring or scratches or dents. Dries to a glossy black finish. Levels beautifully when going on.

FYI - like POR15, KBS is UV sensitive over time so you may want to put a protective topcoat on, which KBS also sells, but you can use just about anything you like.
 
POR-15 is a brand name for a type of paintable coating that is part of a line of metal treatments marketed with a prefix or suffix POR-15. Like Ford sells Fords and Lincolns, trucks, chassis...
I used POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint as a try-out to restore the booth top frame of my '75MGB that had rusted spots. I just sanded (by hand) the rusted areas, wiped clean with cheese cloth and applied BLACK GLOSSY POR 15. My buddies wouldn't believe how clean and shiny the result came out. Not one streak, just like it was dipped in melting rubber. I had also painted a piece of steel pipe to check on hardness and adherence. After 1 week, the test pipe resisted bangs with a hammer.
Check their site for more technical info they have a whole line of very interesting products.
https://www.por15.com/
HOWEVER it is true that you MUST finish the job by COATING with UV coating as indicated in the POR 15 literature.

Best regards
 
Steve, this is what I meant with «... as indicated in the POR 15 literature.». Yet, your statement definitely CLARIFIES that some of the POR 15 needs UV coating (as indicated by the manufacturer) except for the ones that integrate UV protection in their formula (as indicated by the manufacturer).
Agree that one can never be too specific with specialty products.
Regards,
 
Been using POR15 extensivly on my B and BGT. As long as the metal is preped properly, it is outstanding. I painted the fuel tank on my B, the entire undercarriage of my B with it. Not a single piece peeled. 5 years and counting..still looks as good today as when I applied it

The only time I had a problem was when I did not clean and etch the metal as indicated.

ALL products need to be prepared properly..POR15 or anything else in it's class. You need to get the old loose metal/rust off, degrease it, dry it. Etching helps on most products,

I would recommend it as long as it is prepared right.

The UV will only discolor the POR15. It will not affect it's performance to protect against rust. It is a cosmetic change

Paul
 
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