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TR2/3/3A What oils, lubes etc should I have at my house at all times?

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poolboy said:
There's VR1 conventional and VR1 synthetic Synthetic cost more.
But if you are comparing prices, there's no rule that says VR1 at AutoZone has to cost the same as VR1 at Amazon, for instance.
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I notice most people don't use the synthetic for the engine, is there a reason? Is the conventional thicker which is better for the older cars? I use it in my 2012 Jeep and it's very popular with the jeep people.
 
I really don't know the answer to those questions, I can only tell you I don't use full synthetic in my TR6 engine.
I change oil and filter every 3500 miles which is about every 6 to 8 months.
Currently I'm using Kendall GT-1 20w-50 which I got at a good price, but I have a lot of VR1 20w-50 on hand as well as about a dozen bottles of Brad Penn 20w-50.... and a couple of quarts of Redline MT-90 for my OverDrive transmission
 
VR1 comes in different "weights" as well as conventional and synthetic formulas, the VV211 refers specifically to conventional 20W50. For example, conventional 40 weight is VV229.

The discount chains (O'Reilly, Autozone, Advance, etc) usually have a sale on VR1 once or twice a year. I watch for the sales and stock up.
 
In addition to the stuff that goes in the car, if you do your own work i would suggest always having a penetrating lubricant around, I love PB Blaster and most seem to agree it is a lot better than WD40 for this purpose, some also like Kroil (sp?) I have never tried it. I also like to keep something to clean parts as they come off, not the cheapest, but if you buy a few cans of brake cleaner it really takes oil and grease off easily, so you can put nice and clean parts together.
 
These may have already been mentioned.

Anti-seize is great to have around, if you are removing/replacing parts.
Also i prefer synthetic grease for the zerks. Though I replace the grease more than necessary so it probably makes no difference.
 
+1 on the PB Blaster. Takes some time to work, but is truly amazing for getting off old rusty fasteners. Best to apply and let it sit overnight at least, longer is better. For example, I've been working on a 1947 "Johnny Popper" tractor that was "yard art" for several decades. Major rust. But last year I dosed all the threads with PBB and this year they have ALL come apart! The only exception so far has been a hose clamp that I missed dosing (and didn't want to save anyway). Here's an example of what I've been dealing with. Every one of those nuts (and the pipe fitting) came off after soaking in PBB.


On the anti-seize; there are different kinds available. My experience has been that the copper-based stuff works the best (tho it tends to be more expensive). Especially useful on high heat connections (like the exhaust manifold nuts). I used it on those pesky pins that hold the rear springs to the frame back around 1985 or so, on my previous TR3A daily driver. When I stripped the wreck in 2007, the pins just slid right out, no puller needed! And I always use it on any bolt that goes into a captive nut. Haven't spun a single one since I started doing that.
 
Does anybody use the Collector's Choice Engine Oil - 20W-50 and dash pot oil from the Moss Motors web site? Is it any good?
 
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O'Reilly Auto parts has VR1 20-50 on sale for $4.99 around here. Got everything that two local stores had so I am fixed up for several oil changes. No use by date on oil.

Also they said that they are discontinuing VR1 20-50

David
 
TR3driver said:
Most of those are matters of opinion, and there are lots of opinions.
I use Valvoline VR1 20/50 in the crankcase. No additives.
Straight 20W in the dashpots (any brand I can find).
Gearbox/OD gets Redline MT-90.
Rear axle Valvoline Synpower gear oil.
Prestone's "Any color" mixed 30/70.

I have been trying adding 4oz of TCW3 2-cycle oil to each tank of gas. Can't say for sure, but the engine seems to like it. But my engine is kind of 'tired' so YMMV.
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when you say 30/70 mix on the prestone is that 30 water 70 prestone?
 
Momikey said:
when you say 30/70 mix on the prestone is that 30 water 70 prestone?
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Nope, other way around. I live where it almost never freezes, so freeze protection is not an issue for me. Obviously if you live in a colder climate, you have to run enough to prevent freezing.

But antifreeze is not as good at removing heat from the engine as plain water is. So I run just enough to get corrosion protection. Prestone used to allow that; apparently now they claim that 50% is the minimum concentration, so YMMV.

I tried running just Redline Water Wetter, which they claim will provide corrosion protection without any antifreeze, but it didn't seem to work for me. After just 6 months or so, the coolant was dark brown and smelled of rust. Dunno what happened, but I went back to Prestone.
 
TR3driver said:
Nope, other way around. I live where it almost never freezes, so freeze protection is not an issue for me. Obviously if you live in a colder climate, you have to run enough to prevent freezing.

But antifreeze is not as good at removing heat from the engine as plain water is. So I run just enough to get corrosion protection. Prestone used to allow that; apparently now they claim that 50% is the minimum concentration, so YMMV.

I tried running just Redline Water Wetter, which they claim will provide corrosion protection without any antifreeze, but it didn't seem to work for me. After just 6 months or so, the coolant was dark brown and smelled of rust. Dunno what happened, but I went back to Prestone.
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Cool thanks. So they now sell 50/50 already mixed in the container so I guess I will try that.
 
Momikey said:
...So they now sell 50/50 already mixed in the container so I guess I will try that.
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If you look at the price of straight coolant and the priced of distilled (or tap if not real hard) water - and compare that to what they get for the 50/50 I think you'll save some $$$ by mixing your own.

That said - I only buy the 50/50 stuff because Pep Boys sell it for $2 a gallon on Black Friday (day after Thanksgiving). That is the day I buy all my antifreeze & oil for the coming year.

I do dilute the 50/50 to 30/70 for the TRs but for my cars with aluminum heads I stay at 50/50 as those are possibly more vulnerable to corrosion.
 
Geo Hahn said:
If you look at the price of straight coolant and the priced of distilled (or tap if not real hard) water - and compare that to what they get for the 50/50 I think you'll save some $$$ by mixing your own.

That said - I only buy the 50/50 stuff because Pep Boys sell it for $2 a gallon on Black Friday (day after Thanksgiving). That is the day I buy all my antifreeze & oil for the coming year.

I do dilute the 50/50 to 30/70 for the TRs but for my cars with aluminum heads I stay at 50/50 as those are possibly more vulnerable to corrosion.
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That's true but it's kinda hard to find distilled water around here. I don't know why because we have hard water.
 
Momikey said:
That's true but it's kinda hard to find distilled water around here. I don't know why because we have hard water.
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Here at least, every grocery store & Wal-Mart have it in gallon bottles.

But I am not convinced that it is either necessary or even best practice. Stores also sell drinking water in gallon bottles which is probably filtered and otherwise treated to be less hard than local tap water - that seems fine to me. I doubt the 50/50 Prestone is being made with distilled water.
 
Geo Hahn said:
Here at least, every grocery store & Wal-Mart have it in gallon bottles.

But I am not convinced that it is either necessary or even best practice. Stores also sell drinking water in gallon bottles which is probably filtered and otherwise treated to be less hard than local tap water - that seems fine to me. I doubt the 50/50 Prestone is being made with distilled water.
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That's true filtered water is probably just as good. Our water around here is so hard that I just think its better not to use it in my car. The Prestone bottle does say on it 50% distilled water so I have to believe them Lol. Thanks.
 
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