What lurks under 35 year old paint.

[TR6oldtimer]

Not just here, but everywhere I strip it down.

 

[TheSearcherMan]

Will you please tell me how you put this pic here, I have a similar one for you? Also, that is a chemical strip, right?

 

[Tinster]

Ray-

That is exactly what I found in my 69TR6 when I chem stripped
the engine bay, truck area, gas tank and floor panels. Spider
web shapes of rust.

I used 200 grit emery paper to get to clean metal and then
immediately a primer coat (brushed on )because of the salt
air where I live.

regards,

d

 

[TR3driver]

Will you please tell me how you put this pic here,

If you click "Reply" or "Quote", the screen that opens should have a link for "File Manager". Click that. In the pop-up, click Browse, select your file, then click "Add file" and "Done adding files". If the selected file is small enough (in kbytes, not image size), it will appear in your post. (Otherwise, a link to the photo will be shown.)

 

[TR6oldtimer]

Searcher, yes I am chemically stripping where ever I can and will media blast the areas I cannot get to with a small siphon blaster. Before media blasting, I will sand and power wire brush the minor rust. The metal will then be treated with Picklex 20, a phosphate product with a sealing polymer to keep flash rust from forming until I can paint it.

Pictures are easily posted if you use the free Photo Bucket or similar sites. Photo Bucket even has a simple photo editor. Or just follow Randall's instructions.

Dale, I am much more aggressive using 80 grit on the metal and light rust, then blast the pitted areas.

 

[tdskip]

Could be a LOT worse Ray!

 

[TheSearcherMan]

Here is what lurked under a 30 yr. paint job. Media blasted, still not sure if that was a overall mistake.

 

[tdskip]

Here is what lurked under a 30 yr. paint job. Sandblasted, still not sure if that was a overall mistake.

Not if you get good primer and sealer on it ASAP. At a glance it looks pretty good.

 

[TheSearcherMan]

Valencia Blue don't have nothing on this.

 

[rlandrum]

Searcher, yes I am chemically stripping where ever I can and will media blast the areas I cannot get to with a small siphon blaster. Before media blasting, I will sand and power wire brush the minor rust. The metal will then be treated with Picklex 20, a phosphate product with a sealing polymer to keep flash rust from forming until I can paint it.

I'm interested in this Picklex 20... Have you already used it before? How long can the metal sit bare in a dry basement? Does it affect the primer, paint or anything other than the metal?

I saw something similar on Muscle Car (on Spike TV) a few seasons ago, but was never able to track down a name or reference when I actually needed some. He left his bare Mustang (I think) sit in the shop for a few months before getting back to it. Any idea if they're the same product?

 

[Tinster]

Valencia Blue don't have nothing on this.

Dang it all - that's drop dead beautiful!

I must be the only BCF Triumph owner with a ragged out, hardly runs,
fugly but streetable TR6.

You guys make my car look like an abandoned auto, lying dead
behind a public housing project in Wash. D.C.

Mighty fine looking cars, all.

"Catch a wave and
you're sittin' on top of the world."

dale

 

[tdskip]

I must be the only BCF Triumph owner with a ragged out, hardly runs,
fugly but streetable TR6.

I think I have you all covered on scruffy drivers. Crypty looks pretty good to me Dale! (and from what I hear she runs OK too)

 

[TR6oldtimer]

I'm interested in this Picklex 20... Have you already used it before? How long can the metal sit bare in a dry basement? Does it affect the primer, paint or anything other than the metal?

I saw something similar on Muscle Car (on Spike TV) a few seasons ago, but was never able to track down a name or reference when I actually needed some. He left his bare Mustang (I think) sit in the shop for a few months before getting back to it. Any idea if they're the same product?

One of my challenges was how to do most of the work myself and on my time line (one reason I did not media blast). The biggest problem was flash rust before repairs and priming could be done. I tried a lot of stuff until I discovered Picklex20. I have applied it on media blasted and surface rusted areas. I use a course scotch bright pad to apply. Simple stuff to use, apply and let set three or four minutes, then wipe off. It will be tacky for a bit until fully dry. The product is a rust neutralizer and primer. The manufacturer claims it can be painted over with nothing else done to it. I choose to scuff it to insure a good bite for the epoxy primer. DO NOT USE SELF ETCHING PRIMER with Picklex20.

I have applied it on panels, and no rust for several months. It will rust if it gets wet or from your sweaty hands. I also apply it on seams and blow out the excess.

A bit pricey, but a little goes a long way.

I do not use it on heavy rust and deep pits

The same area at the start of this thread after wire brushing and coating. Areas I could not get to will be media blasted then coated with the same stuff.

https://www.picklex20.com/1135632.html

In case anyone wonders, I have no financial interest in this product.

 

[TheSearcherMan]

I should have used something like that, around here in the summer, rust starts immediately. I would blast until almost dark, them break out the epoxy primer, not the right way to go. One thing about blasting, it's fast. However, you need to remember, if you try to do it without taking the car apart, sand goes everywhere, blasting is not suitable for just doing one part of the car. I tried, as picture indicates. I ended up taking the car apart. But, once all the parts are removed, blasting is superfast, with a pressurized blaster. Oh, and don't use sand, it's dangerous to your health. You could blast under the hood in like 1 hr. or less depending on your equipment, and luck. I think blasting is the only way to get the rust off of floorboards. Anyhow, hope this helps someone. It took me a year and a half to do my car, nights, weekends, and holidays. And, the cost is ridiculous. I am still tweeking the car, trying to make it run like a modern car. Also, you need to take all the appropriate safety measures when painting or blasting.

 

[John_Mc]

I have used a product called The Must For Rust by Krud Kutter. I learned about it on an old thread on this forum. Seems to work pretty well.

 

[71tr]

I used zipstrip spray-on paint stripper to remove all of the paint on my six. I found the same spider web patterns of rust underneath what appeared to be perfectly good paint. I then used a wire brush on my power drill, either coarse or fine depending upon the need. Once I reached shiny metal I used the Krud Kutter-Must for Rust (avail at Home Depot) which is basically a phosphoric acid solution to neutralize any remaining rust. After drying I hit the area with a 100 grit sandpaper to clean everything up and leave a good surface for priming. It is a lot of work but rewarding in the end.

 

[TR674]

Tinster
I look at it this way....I don't have a nice shiny engine bay like that as it would be covered in oil from the motor leaking everywhere.......
Regards
Craig

 

[angelfj1]

Apologies for highjacking the topic, but on a related note:
And this is what you find under 48 years of old paint (and crud) on a "real" :smirk: Triumph sports car

They never wasted anything at the old Canley Works. So, quite often chassis frames were painted with whatever colour was available. The result - Silverstone grey body and signal red chassis. I've seen BRG bodies on signal red chassis also. Must have looked strange brand new. :laugh:

It seems with the intro of the TR-4, chassis were painted black only.

Does anyone have a TR-4 or later car with a chassis that was not originally painted black?

 

[Brosky]

Remember in the old days, they used paint until they ran out, then moved to the next car with whatever color for underbody and frames. The only sure area of color, was the topcoat. That goes all the way back to the TR2.

 

[rlandrum]

I believe the original color of my frame was Yellow, and the original color of my body was almost certainly signal red.

Very strange combination. We were kinda wondering if perhaps we had a mismatched frame and body...