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What kind of ignition system are you using?

70herald

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Since I am about to do something with my ignition system, I was just wondering what kind of system other are using. I am sort of leaning to the Crane XR700. Mostly because the newer ones are smart enough to shut off if the engine isn't running.
 
The stock system did me well (with routine maintenance) for 80K+ miles. A rebuilt stock unit should last me the rest of my life.
 
I've run a Lumenition system for about 15 years. I was going to replace it with a 123 ignition recently (no problems other than the mechanical bits where wearing out), but since I recently decided to go with Webers, I purchased a Mallory distributor, but with a Pertronix installed.
 
Darrell,why not the guts from the Mallory?
 
I suppose it depends on your objective. I've always found the stock points reliable (important to me) and easy enough to maintain. I actually enjoy the points adjustment ritual needed from time to time.
 
DNK said:
Darrell,why not the guts from the Mallory?

I've heard that the condensors on the Mallory systems can be flakey, but mostly because I got a screamin closeout deal on the Pertronix module for it.
 
Geo Hahn said:
I suppose it depends on your objective. I've always found the stock points reliable (important to me) and easy enough to maintain. I actually enjoy the points adjustment ritual needed from time to time.
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif on all counts! Even some of the really horrible points sets will function. They might not function perfectly, and they might not last long, but they WILL function. And I admit to being amused by the number of people who run various electronic igntions but keep -- yes -- a spare SET OF POINTS mounted up and ready to drop in when I MEAN IF (sorry) /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif the electronic ignition fails.

And as I write this, I see points have caught up again to tie for 1st place in the poll. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif
 
There was a Crane in my TR6 when I purchased the car. Less than a week later it was in the trash barrel. It just did not fit and was rubbing on the rotor. To be fair, there were no instructions with it and I do not know if it even was the correct model for my car.

Like others I did, and still do, prefer points. So I installed a set of points. My troubles got worse in a hurry. At least the Crane system did not leave me stranded but the points system did several times. Having operated many kinds of equipment and cars since the 50's I had never had these kinds of problems with points systems. Condensers burning out in a few miles, caps and rotors that did not fit and often rubbed. I bought my TR6 to drive, not sit in my garage while playing roulette ordering parts to find some that work.

Now I am running a Pertronix. In more than 5,000 miles I have had no trouble of any kind with it. Comparatively, the points would have had me stranded a dozen or more times by now.

Yes, I do carry a spare points setup in my boot. The reason is that it is cheaper and hopefully would last long enough to get me home. Although past experience makes that doubtful. And from the numbers of others searching for an ignition system they can trust I am convinced that I am not the only one to have these experiences.
 
Tom, I think you can possibly chalk your experiences up to the horrid quality of many of the aftermarket ignition components now offered. Other than that, I've found points to be very reliable.
Since 1966, I've had exactly one points related ignition failure, and that was <u>MY</u> fault.
Jeff
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif, Jeff! And yes, I suppose I should have gone into more detail in my original reply, since there certainly are a lot of (at best) "iffy" ignition parts out there today...not just points sets. But good NOS or NORS or quality modern replacement parts (some Lucas, some Standard/Blue Streak, probably other brands) will be fine.

I still remember as a kid about 7-8 years old, riding with the family in Dad's Triumph 10 sedan, which stopped dead in a downtown area. A stranger approached the car and apparently knew just what to do in cleaning and/or just resetting the points, and he had us going again in minutes! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
 
Andrew, my one failure was that I didn't tighten the adjustment screw fully, and the points slid closed. Two minute fix and back on the road.
I still run points on one of the race cars.
Jeff
 
I have an MSD6 unit so punched the other button, but I use the system with points (that still look new after 10,000 miles)so the poll needs an asterik.
 
Jeff, I completely agree with you.

When I had my TR4 and GT6 there was only points systems. I drove over 150,000 miles in them and had no problems. Because of that I also know there is no excuse for the bad parts.

I just don't have the patience to sort through the rotten apples to find the good parts. Especially when I end up paying for the rotten ones as well.
 
Tom, I still try to source NOS Lucas or Delco whenever possible. I've had decent luck with Standard/Blue Streak, and Echlin. Bosch has prety much turned into crap!
Jeff
 
Bugeye58 said:
...Bosch has prety much turned into crap!
Jeff
That's really sad. I don't know if Bosch ever actually MADE bits for the Delco distributors on Spitfires or GT6s, but even if they only repackaged bits from other manufacturers, what they used to supply in Bosch packaging was excellent. Especially the points sets, which were well made and even were "ventilated" to help keep them from burning, etc. And I always thought it was pretty cool that the same rotor I used in Spitfires and GT6s would also fit my '51 Chevy!
 
Just running what she came home with. I've found that I can just go down to the local NAPA, or Northern Auto and get replacement points, condenser or what ever. Standard "tractor" parts.
 
prb51 said:
I have an MSD6 unit so punched the other button, but I use the system with points (that still look new after 10,000 miles)so the poll needs an asterik.

Did you notice any difference when you installed this?
I brought the whole question up since I am trying to decide what to do with my ignition system. Irrelevant of what else I do, I still need a rebuild / recurve. No the dizzy I have is really good enough that with an electronic sensor I wouldn't even need the rebuild. There is only a tiny tiny bit of movement in the shaft. So for about the same cost, I could bring it back to perfect and use point, or ignore the play and use some other type of sensor. (Of course since I am a bit of a perfectionist, I still will most likely have it rebuilt properly anyway)
The fact that the pertronix doesn't shut off automatically is really bad designing. That makes me lean toward the Crane (which at least the latest version is smart enough to shut off by itself) and then there is the "cool factor" of that box. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif
The MSD or other similar boxes could also be interesting since they not only give a "strong" spark but a "long" or multiple sparks.
 
I've used the MSD unit in a few older points system cars and like the product.
I didn't notice a great deal of change in my TR3 because the 3 was in top shape to begin with. What I don't have to worry about though is dwell, lose the condensor and/or pitting points. It does make tuning easier and smooth out idle as the spark duration gives excellent combustion.
I put one on a MBz 190sl that needed an engine rebuild and there was tremendous improvement overall so, as with most systems I believe you'd note a greater diff if the car needs help.
The MSD works fine with the original generator as it doesn't draw much.
My guess is that you could use the system with your present dizzy and it would improve that aspect of your cars performance as the MSD unit itself maintains the capacitive discharge that is only triggered by the dizzy not controlled by it. As long as your dizzy can open/close the points it will work well.
At some point though I'd rebuild the dizzy myself, I got the MSD because it basically removes/improves the drawbacks of the original reliable system: weak or fluctuating spark, condensor failure and pitted points.
 
70herald said:
...There is only a tiny tiny bit of movement in the shaft...

Is there a simple way to measure the amount of play (a dial micrometer?). Is there an acceptable amount of play?

Or do you just wiggle it and if you cannot feel the play then it is okay?

My experience (axles, not dizzy shafts) is that I cannot reliably find small amounts of play just by feel.
 
Geo Hahn said:
Is there a simple way to measure the amount of play (a dial micrometer?). Is there an acceptable amount of play?

If it wiggles there is way to much play. I don't know of a spec but then I don't have Lucas manual or any other distributor manual. Since the point open 0.16" then it would seem to me that motion over about 0.015" already means that 10% of the opening could be lost. At higher speeds where a point system isn't that great any way, it would seem to me that that would be problematic.
 
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