• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A What final front suspension torque settings needed?

Share this page

Joel Lester

Joel Lester

Senior Member
Country flag
Offline
Hey guys,
Finally got my TR3 back on the ground after a complete suspension rebuild. EVERYTHING is new. I recall that I was to do the final tightening of some certain nuts (bolts) after the weight of the car was put back on the suspension. Can someone remind me what those were? I barely remember it being the nuts at each side of the upper control arm?
Thanks in advance!
Joel
IMG_2499 (1).jpg
 
Anything with a rubber bushing should be tightened after full weight is on them. Both front and rear. The reason is that they work by flexing, so with full weight on them, you tighten them in their neutral position. If you tighten them any other way, there will be stress on the bushing when the car is sitting still, and whenever the suspension is compressed, there will be even more stress.

If you have Delrin bushings, it probably doesn't matter, as they are designed to slide, not flex.

Nice looking car, by the way...!
 
Great looking car! I have a big "to do" note to accomplish that as well when I get mine back on the ground. What size tires are those?
Steve Baker
 
Joel, made it out to the shop. I think you are looking at the top wishbones to fulcrum pin. Torque for that one is 26-40' pounds (to suit pin hole) and the lower wishbone to fulcrum pin at 26-28' pounds. I saw your other post about wheels and tires. I have a friend with large tires on his tr3 and he had problems with the front brakes. The brakes worked fine until you turned a corner and then it took 2 pumps of the pedal to get the brakes back. After a lot of bleeding and head scratching we finally fixed it by going to strengthened stub axels. I know back in the day these cars exhibited this behavior when raced or driven aggressively, but I attribute it to the larger than stock tires. Congratulations on getting yours out in the sun. Drive it like you stole it!
Steve Baker
 
Thanks guys!
Yep - I've got the Delrin bushings. Maybe a dumb question but how the heck would you tighten those parts with it on the ground with the weight of the car on them? It's such a small car... there is no room to crawl under it! LOL!
Steve thanks for those torque specs - that is super handy.
Tires are 195/65/15. The TR6 wheels are 5 1/2 inches wide which makes it possible to fit that size tire.
 
Turn the wheel to the right stop and you can reach the left rear and right front bolts...then left stop for the other 2.
 
Joel Lester said:
Thanks guys!
Yep - I've got the Delrin bushings. Maybe a dumb question but how the heck would you tighten those parts with it on the ground with the weight of the car on them? It's such a small car... there is no room to crawl under it! LOL!
Steve thanks for those torque specs - that is super handy.
Tires are 195/65/15. The TR6 wheels are 5 1/2 inches wide which makes it possible to fit that size tire.
Click to expand...
When i redid my TR6 suspension I drove it up onto ramps so I could get underneath and tighten the hardware to spec.
 
Back
Top