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TR2/3/3A What do your recomend for a tr3a throw out bearing?

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Got_All_4

Got_All_4

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Did a search and a lot of discussion on throw out bearings. The bearing I currently have doesn't have a lot of miles on it may be 10 to 12K, however I was taught that you always change the bearing when you have the tranny out. When I was cleaning the shaft and related parts the bearing fell into the parts washer and was submerged for a while. When I pulled it out you can see all the lubricant running out of the seams. So don't know if it's any good now.
Starting a search and open to discussions to see who has the best bearing. Just rebuilt a TR6 A-type tranny and my goal is to put it in the TR3 and drive the car for the next 25 years and not have to take the tranny out again.
What's in your tranny?
 

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WoW! Just went on line and what a price difference for Moss Vs. TRF. Moss price $25. TRF price $65. Is it that much better?
 
Yeah, for sure it's no good (IMO) after it's been dunked in solvent. They are factory loaded with a fairly special grease.

I was taught the same as you, change it every time. But I don't, because so many replacement parts are defective that I would rather install a "known good" part than a new, potentially defective one. In all the decades I've been reusing throw-out bearings, it has only bitten me one time, and it turned out that time I accidentally installed the wrong one! (Found my "known good" one still sitting on the bench.)

I can't say if the TRF bearing is really worth the extra cost or not; but I know that they try hard to bring the best parts available. Usually when there is a big difference in price, it's because one of them is selling no-name bearings from India or China while the other is selling brand name (ie RHP, Timken or National) bearings made in the US or UK. To me, an extra $40 vs having to pull the gearbox again (and taking a chance of it failing away from home) is a no-brainer. But there was a time when my wallet was thinner and my back was stronger when I might have gone the other way.

Sorry, I don't recall what's in my TR3. ISTR I got it from Brian Schlorff at Power British, but I believe he's been out of business for a long time. It's a TR4A style anyway (since I'm running a 4A clutch on a Fidanza flywheel).
 
I just spent almost 3 hours researching this. I took the part numbers on mine and I kid you not but came up with 10+ different brands mostly US made. NAPA N1087, Timken 2065... I'll report more later. 1:30 a.m. here and got to go to work tomorrow.
 
Rock auto has the Timken bearing 2065 listed for a little over $15. I haven't heard of as many issues with the TR3/4 bearing to go with something more expensive.
 
TR4nut said:
Rock auto has the Timken bearing 2065 listed for a little over $15. I haven't heard of as many issues with the TR3/4 bearing to go with something more expensive.
Click to expand...

I wonder if the bearing as well as the box has Timkin on it. Better still if it says US made. Great deal if so. List is over $100 but I don't suppose many are sold at list.

Tom
 
My Moss 595-000 is an Aetna from Illinois... Says made in USA
 
I dimly recall that TRF used to sell a bearing already pressed into a new carrier. Could this account for the price difference?

There is possibly some magic involved in said pressing so the bearing does not get damaged - e.g. the thing get rotated during the pressing if I recall right.

Okay, I've said more than I know and I do not really recall whose bearings I have used in what.
 
"My Moss 595-000 is an Aetna from Illinois... Says made in USA "

Jim Stevens when did you buy your bearing?

As far as pressing it onto the bushing I'm sure I did it myself back in the 80s and didn't have any special tools. Just a large vice and bar to extend the handle for more leverage. I now have a 20 ton press and plan on freezing the bushing and maybe heating the bearing up a bit to help it slide on without any issues. I'm planning on checking with my local Moss distributor to see if his is a Aetna. That's my first choice and I'll have many to choose from for my second.
 
This is right in my wheelhouse...

I have been in the clutch industry for 26 years. A few facts I have learned from my experience. The bearing in question is a "thrust type ball bearing". Basically a ball riding on grooved races on top and bottom of the ball. There is also what is known as an "angular contact/self-aligning" type bearing that doesn't "sandwich" the ball together like a thrust type bearing does.

Angular contact bearings are much better in applications where the concentricity of the load can vary somewhat. Thrust bearings only work in an environment where the load is pressing squarely and directly onto the bearing. Subjecting them to a non-concentric load will cause them to fail fairly quickly.

Timken - Does not make a ball bearing anything. Their expertise and products are in tapered roller bearings (i.e. cone/cup type bearings, integrated tapered rollers for wheel hub assemblies). Timken has to announce the Country of Origin (COO) on the label so if you are concerned about the manufacturing location of your parts, please look at the label first.
Aetna - Bearings are made in Franklin Park, Ill. They make many thrust-type ball bearings for Industrial, Automotive and Agriculture applications.
NTN/BCA - Makes a wide range of bearings, domestically and internationally.

I have had experience with all the above and numerous other Japanese (KOYO, Nachi), Chinese (GFX) and Korean (KBC) manufacturers. Usually, you get what you pay for, but don't just buy the highest priced part as you will not always get the value you think you are. Where it is made is not always the best indicator of the where the best quality comes from.

As to assembling the original collar onto a new bearing, simply press the old collar out (should come apart relatively easy) and when you want to reassemble, place the collar in the freezer for 30-45 minutes before pressing it into the new bearing. DO NOT heat the bearing as it is not necessary and could liquefy the grease. Also, DO NOT pound the collar into the bearing as it can damage the inner race if you overdo it.
 
I wasn't planning to heat the bearing up much but what I just discovered I'm sure your right I won't need to do it. I just pressed off the old bearing and was going to press on the new Aetna bearing when it came off with little pressure. Take a look at the bushing and near the center collar where the bearing rests there is less then a 1/4" ring that was holding the bearing on. In front of that ring are wear rings where it looks like the bearing was slipping on the bushing and there is a noticeable difference in the diameter of the bushing. The new bearing drops right over the bushing where the wear marks are and only wants to grab the 1/4' ring. I'd say not enough surface area to grab the bearing. The other bushing in the pic is from a TR4 tranny and I'm going to have to turn it down in my lathe to match the TR3 one.
The Aetna bearings are much more substantial in size and weight and I did get it from my Moss distributor for only $20. good value there.
 

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What part of NEOHIO are you? Heck, If I would have noticed earlier that you were close, I would have just given you a new bearing!
 
I have my paycheck digitally deposited every month. 1/2 to the bank and 1/2 to Scott. I got the bearing from him. His 12 miles from me and what a great resource to have so close to me. If you know bob that works for him with the TR6 he lives 1 mile from me.
 
Got_All_4 said:
"My Moss 595-000 is an Aetna from Illinois... Says made in USA "

Jim Stevens when did you buy your bearing?

As far as pressing it onto the bushing I'm sure I did it myself back in the 80s and didn't have any special tools. Just a large vice and bar to extend the handle for more leverage. I now have a 20 ton press and plan on freezing the bushing and maybe heating the bearing up a bit to help it slide on without any issues. I'm planning on checking with my local Moss distributor to see if his is a Aetna. That's my first choice and I'll have many to choose from for my second.
Click to expand...

Jeepers, just a few months ago-- within a year tops.
 
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