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What are these pieces in TRF clutch kit

Norton47

Jedi Warrior
Offline
There are two roller bearings or short pins that came in the clutch kit from the Roadster Factory.
What are they for?
 
I think they may be dowel pins in case of missing 3/8th bolts or to use instead to align trans to engine to ensure proper alignment for smooth clutch operation.
 
Norton,

thay are probably the dowel pins that I think install
at 10:00 and 1:00 O'clock on the back of the engine.
They will both only fit in their proper holes.

You need them to hang the tranny front temporarily while
you jockey it into final positions. The tranny must go in
at a slight angle in order to get it into position.

Do NOT forget to beef up your bearing fork and cross bar. I hope this helps.

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flywheel2.jpg


clutchbarmods.jpg
 
Hi Tinster:

So, what is a bimini knot?

Tinkerman
 
Tinkerman_

I was making a small in-house joke of sorts.

The metal wire thru the taper pin head must
be wrapped around itself at least three times up
the tag end and then three times back down the tag
end and pushed thru the loop. Pull tight with needle
nosed pliers.

Very similar to the bimini know we use in fishing.
Here is an annimated knot tying lesson. The bolt does
not need nearly as many turns but the basic idea will hold
the wire in place during constant vibration. The loop at
the bottom, in our case, passes thru the bolt head hole.

d

https://www.hatterasoutfitters.com/bimini.htm
 
Could the dowel pins in the kit actually be replacement pivot pins for the release bearing fork? My gunst bearing kit came with fresh pins for this.
 
Thanks
In the Navy as an Aviation electrician and at Boeings we call that safety wiring and it's done alittle differently, but the principal is the same.

So the recommendation is to still drill out and install a cross bolt even with the new Roadster Factory parts?
Some parties here talk as though that modification is really a hold over from the very real issues caused by softer metals used earlier compared to what is used today in the kits and that this is not really needed?
 
There is only one way to find out. Don't make the modification, and let us know later how it goes.

I think that with everything new and properly installed, you will get at least the same number of miles as the original.

I have never experienced a failure of the pin, but that is because every time I replace the throw out bearing, I replaced it.
 
Norton,

My repair costs here in Puerto Rico are a lot higher
than in the States but the concepts are the same.

My TR6 was purchased with a broken taper pin I was
not aware of. Bottom line, I spent just about $5,000.
in total repair costs because of that broken taper pin.

Had the fork/cross shaft been reinforced as shown in my
photo- that $5,000. would still be in my pocket.

I think all told, including the TR4A cross shaft, cost
me under $100. to reinforce the fork/cross shaft. You could
probably do it Stateside for under $20. Good insurance.

d
 
Page (3) of this attachment will show the correct positions for the alignment pins. Again, please install as instructed. Disregard all of the other junk in there, unless you're using a Gunst T/O Bearing.
 
Hi Tinster:
Thanks for the info on the bimini knot. Chances are very good that I would not have wire tied the pin which, since I am an outstanding example of Murphy's Law, would have fallen out at the worst possible time!
Regards, Tinkerman
 
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