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TR2/3/3A Wet Sleeve to Engine Block Deck Clearance, TR3A

PatGalvin

Jedi Warrior
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Hello All

Well, engine assembly is moving along at a slow pace. Installed crank and new updated rear seal. Installed liners using new Payen steel Figure 8 gaskets with WellSeal on block, on Figure 8 gaskets, and on bottom flange of liners. Fit them, gave them a few good taps with my rubber mallet, and installed bolts with fat washers to hold liners in place while building the short block. Didn't torque these bolts to any criteria but did tighten them well, so the liners are not budging and are firmly seated in block.

Put a straight edge on liners and pushed my feeler gauge every which way to measure liner protrusion above deck. The 0.002" will usually not slide under the straight edge but the 0.0015 slipped in every location. The liners are new BPNW 87.5mm, in case anyone cares.

Bottom line. I'm pretty satisfied that this is close enough to 0.002", which is minimum protrusion. Would really (I mean really) hate to remove the crank and take back to shop to shave 0.002" off the deck to improve the liner protrusion above deck. I read in the "Restoring your TR3/4 Bible" that the steel washers don't compress so you want to be on the lower end of the range (0.002 to 0.006) for liner protrusion above deck.

Any thoughts or experiences on this? Trying to do this right and looking for someone to help me sleep better at night (hold the off color jokes...).

As always, thanks to the Forum for all the great advice and for keeping me occupied when work gets tedious!

Photos to follow this eve.

Pat
 
Should be OK. Has anything been shaved off the head? If not ,you might want to have it shaved so there will be no warpage issues and you know it is flat.Cheap insurance.
 
Here's some highlights. I know you all love photos!

Yes, head skimmed just to clean it up. CR should already be healthy, given larger bore (87.5mm) compared to stock 83mm. Didn't need to increase by removing much from bottom of head.

https://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae352/PatGalvin_bucket/Engine%20Rebuild/IMG_1456.jpg

Pat

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Nice pictures Pat - did you modify the main end cap yourself? I want to do that as well, but definitely don't want to goof it up.
 
The "modern" oil seal from BPNW instructions indicate that you need to drill two holed in cap to increase oil drainage. I had machine shop do that. It took them about 30 minutes and they like me so much (more likely, they were happy to see me finally leave) that they just charged me $20. It is a lot of drilling (very thick metal at that angle) so I wouldn't dare try this at home without professional equipment.
 
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