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Wet Sanding

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777jag

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I am thinking of having my car wet sanded. The paint is lacquer and in good shape 8-9 out of 10. I was told it was painted about 15 years ago and still has a great shine, however, upon close examination I can see some surface blemishes. What should it cost and what are the pluses and minuses? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
It is time consuming work so not cheap. If the paint is thick enough it could be done. What about a good buffing? Do you mean just the blemished areas sanded or the entire car? what kind of blemishes?

Bruce
 
I wet sanded mine after I painted it. You start with 1,500 paper then go to 2,000 grit then go to a medium buffing compound then a fine coumpound and finally a swirl remover. Use a variable speed buffer and a wool pad for the first 2 compounds and a foam pad for the final. You have to know how to do it or you will burn the paint. Edges and places like that require agood bit of finesse. Cloudly laquer I don`t think will clean up with wet sanding. You will need to repaint for that.
 
If the car is an 8-9/10 it shouldn’t need wet sanding, not over the entire surface anyway. That’s normally for a finish with large-scale issues like excessive orange peel, extra heavy oxidation or a complete lack of gloss on a fresh re-spray. It may be useful on severe localized defects.

A good buffing is likely what’s called for. It probably won’t need a particularly aggressive compound, lacquer tends to be pretty soft.

The “pin pricks” or any defect you can feel or catch a fingernail or tip of a toothpick on are probably too deep to remove without compromising the finish.


PC.
 
Was talking to the guys who painted mine and they have gone away from wet sanding as it seems the (hibuild) as in putty used to smooth out retains some moisture and can cause problems down the track
 
Wet sanding is used to remove any small defects in the paint. My car had a few small dust particles in it that sanded out. A paint job might look smooth as glass but when you sand it you will see the orange peel flatten out. I wouldn`t use it on an old paint job especially laquer. If you can catch a fingernail on it wet sanding won`t work. Wet sanding is used to flatten out the surface prior to buffing not to remove any damages to the coating.
 
Pin pricks are generally caused by not allowing enough time between coats while painting. The gases from these wet coats, needing to escape, cause them.
To properly fix these, you must sand below the bad paint and respray. Consider these blemishes as patina, and enjoy the car.
If you don't know how much paint is on the car, don't risk sanding through to the primer and forcing yourself into costly repairs.
 
777jag,im going to have mine done soon as the temp goes above freezing,the p.o. had the car painted just befor i bought it useing lacquer,and i can see some orange peel ,minor dull spots,and some small particles,i brought the car to a detail shop here in stamford ct.he does all the detailing for an extremely high end exotic car (big boy toys) type stuff dealer,he explained to me that the paint job was never finished correctly,it had not been 'flattened' meaning the paint had not been cut down to a consistant level,to make matters worse,my car is black,dont know if youve ever visited a fellow contributor to this forums home page 'pbraun' or the picts. he posted in 'members cars' but that is what mine should look like,1963 bj7,the way my car is painted now will not look as good,but was told he could bring my finnish from a strong 6,to an 8.5,having painted cars,boats and aircraft my self using both conventional and hvlp equipment,i believe him,to wet sand,minor paint touch up (small nicks and scratches) wax and buff hes asking $300.00,considering a full out paint job can start at about 5-6 grand and go way-way up from there,i think i can live with an 8.5.for a year or so. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
I would stay away from wet sanding a paint job of that age. Would probably take the clay to it and leave it as is. I will give you a few tricks if you still wish to sand...tape on all edges, this is VERY cheap insurance to prevent burning through. Put some dish washing detergent in the water bucket and have a clean soapy spunge handy to lube the paper.
Good luck, David. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
On my etype that was painted over ten years ago..paint was never finished properly....Used 1000 grit with rubber block..flattened paint ..buffed improved look 100%. If you are worried just start woth a small place.that is hidden (rocker panel)..block it, buff it and compare the difference..Have improved the looks of many cars over the years with a little work...try it
 
it's Lacquer that is 15 years old. That presents a big problem. Straight Lacquer paint is no longer available in California...so if you go through, good luck with repairing the damage. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Well maybe Grantura, Laquer is no longer sold in CA,but you might try the local airport!---Fwiw---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
I never really like Lacquer any way. Did an ss100 in at the customers request, and a few Bentley buck heads. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif I prefer Concept at the moment.
Cheers, David.
 
Lacquer is really old school. I guess the ultra purist will always want it but a basecoat/clearcoat is really nice or even acrylic enamel with a couple coats of clear works well also.
 
skip and lynne,i agree,specialy when you mix some clear into the base coat first,comes out real slick,the paint on my bj7 is only a year old and i just cant justify the money or the time right now to do a total repaint,but when i do you can bet your union jack and old uncle henrys war sward (the uncle henry on lynnes side ,the guy in the gray suit)that ill be a usin base/clear. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
My two cents: clear coat shows swirls and scratched over dark colors. You will be good friends with Scratch-X. But boy, it sure looks great.
 
th,ya i have a 2005 chevy.express van "midnight blue" i believe its base clear,but any dark colors show of irregularitys like ya had the lights of broadway shinning on a zit. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
I shot 3 coats of PPG Concept clear with about 20 minutes between coats and then I double thinned the 4th coat and shot it. It was about like water but it flowed out really smooth. I gave it about 2 weeks to set and color sanded and buffed it out and it looks like it is still wet. You are right about the swirls especially over the dark red I used but hey I sure enjoy a cold Coors Light while Lynne rubs on her car.
 
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