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Westfield_XI
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Until we get the build site up I will post here with progress reports. Today was a big day: I dropped off the old chassis and bodywork @ UPS in Simi Valley. Now there are no more distractions and I am free to go ahead and jump into the build.
So I did! I started by drilling out the rivets that held the doors and cockpit tub to the chassis. The tub comes out to give me access to spray Lizardskin sound & heatproofing onto the cockpit interior and the back of the tub. Also the firewall, the inside of the pods and behind the muffler. This will help with heat and noise and will also make everything a uniform color and texture. For this reason, after al fiberglasswork is done i will spray the underside of the body too.
The doors have to come off the allow me to change the piano hinges to the type with a removeable hinge pin. This is the easiest way to get removable doors.
I also started riveting .032" 6061 alloy sheet onto the belly of the chassis. I want to fully enclose the underside and build a duct for the radiator air from the nose scoop. This should prevent the well known problem of the trailing edge of the hood lifting at speed due to pressurisation of the engine compartment. I figure to bring the air in at the nose scoop and dump it out just in front of the crank pully.
I might need to reform one of the coolant pipes, perhaps fab another one if necessary, but they are just alloy tube and easy to source.
Next step is to finish the bellypan and scrape all the excess silicone sealant from the chassis. I intend to seal all seams using poly-sulfite aircraft sealant. This is completely oil and fuel resistant as well as waterproof. Then I can mask off to spray the Lizardskin. Once the coating is fully cured I can begin bolting on parts. The plater will be done this Friday so there should be no hold-up there.
So I did! I started by drilling out the rivets that held the doors and cockpit tub to the chassis. The tub comes out to give me access to spray Lizardskin sound & heatproofing onto the cockpit interior and the back of the tub. Also the firewall, the inside of the pods and behind the muffler. This will help with heat and noise and will also make everything a uniform color and texture. For this reason, after al fiberglasswork is done i will spray the underside of the body too.
The doors have to come off the allow me to change the piano hinges to the type with a removeable hinge pin. This is the easiest way to get removable doors.
I also started riveting .032" 6061 alloy sheet onto the belly of the chassis. I want to fully enclose the underside and build a duct for the radiator air from the nose scoop. This should prevent the well known problem of the trailing edge of the hood lifting at speed due to pressurisation of the engine compartment. I figure to bring the air in at the nose scoop and dump it out just in front of the crank pully.
I might need to reform one of the coolant pipes, perhaps fab another one if necessary, but they are just alloy tube and easy to source.
Next step is to finish the bellypan and scrape all the excess silicone sealant from the chassis. I intend to seal all seams using poly-sulfite aircraft sealant. This is completely oil and fuel resistant as well as waterproof. Then I can mask off to spray the Lizardskin. Once the coating is fully cured I can begin bolting on parts. The plater will be done this Friday so there should be no hold-up there.
