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Welp, found what the clunk was......

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R6MGS

R6MGS

Yoda
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As some of you know I've has a clunk in the rear end of my TR6 since I got it a few months back, I've been thinking U-Joints(as the PO told me the diff mounts had already been welded) so today I blocked it up and slid under to take a look and to grease things up...."hummm that left diff mount looks loose, pass me a rachet...ooops!" Yup the thing completely fell apart, and upon inspection it had been welded but the welder did not allow room for the nut to be tightened correctly on the end,so it was left loose and eventually the distance tube in the rubber mount broke free and thats what was causing my clunk....So went to Peninsula Imports here in Oakville and got a new mount, then carefully drove over to my mechanic to have it installed...Not sure if he's going to try and weld something up again, or replace that entire tube looking thing with one big bolt. I also had him change the diff fluid, and grease all the u-joints...no point in me sliding back under there.
 
Bummer. I just had a welder repair my front cracked mount and then I had him box it in with a kit from Moss. That sucker isn't going anywhere now.
 
On my last TR6 I had the same clunk. When I finally got under the car, the previous owner had substituted the missing tube looking thing (bet you can't look that one up in the parts manual!) with a length of cheap 1/2 threaded rod and many washers and a couple of nuts. I also found hacked up body sheet metal above the arrangement so everything could be tightened down. What a mess.

I ultimately repaired it with proper replacement parts. Actually, a welder repaired it, I just bought the parts. To locate the tube thingy properly, I did do something that worked well: I cut a short length of 1/2" copper pipe that matched the proper unthreaded length of the good remaining post. I split the pipe lengthwise, then pushed it on the replacement post - the welder could easily get the post into position that way, then after the initial tack weld the copper spacer was removed for final cleanup. Worked well, and it was easy - so I would not go the route of a big bolt or heaven forbid threaded rod like I had.

Good luck!
Randy
 
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missing tube looking thing (bet you can't look that one up in the parts manual!)

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Boy!! You were right. I tried looking it up. There's no part # for a tube looking thingie. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
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mmmmmmmm...my PO told me he had the valves adjusted. none were right and one of the intakes was burned. Everyone can work on these cars but not everyone that works on them can get it right.

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Amen!
The 'recently tunned carbs' on it where the equivalent of an LBC horror movie...I had to completely start over to get them right.....The scariest part: The P.O was an airline pilot and builder of hobby planes /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/troll.gif
 
Boy, have I "been there, done that" in terms of POs that probably should have known better. Back in the early 1970s, a college friend bought a Volvo 164 from some sort of aerospace engineer (at least he was employed by Grumman, but maybe he was in the canoe division?). He (the PO) had come up with all sorts of "creative" ways to fix problems...that my friend and I ended up re-fixing by restoring various bits back to original configuration.
 
You are right Hondo, but isn't it fun discovering and fixing all these things? Kind of macho thing like claiming the car as our own. BTW - I was just teasing about the seats. Did not mean to hit a nerve.
I know I have sold a couple cars that must have given the next owner much satisfaction.
 
Got the call today, the cars done...He was able to retap the tube looking thing and get it all back together properly....Changed the trans and diff fluid with synthetic oil(which I did not specify!) and did a complete grease job....At little more than I wanted to spend on it now, so it'd better not be clunking...or howling.
 
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....Changed the trans and diff fluid with synthetic oil(which I did not specify!)

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Don't you hate it when a shop does something like this, putting synthetic oil in your transmission. If I were you I would insist he take it out, flush the darn thing with the proper oil and refill it to spec. GL4 for a non-overdrive and NON DETERGENT 30 wt. oil for an overdrive tranny. You don't want to switch to synthetic oil, ever. GL4 (Hypoy) for the diff. Synthetic is just too slick for either unit.


Bill
 
Yup, plus he charged me nicely for the synthetic.....my wife went down to pay for it today...I'll pick it up after work...If it's not driving smoother than ever I'll be right back in there, only this time not so happy.
 
Well, I just got back with it...Clunk is gone!! and it's shifting nice and smoothly....howl is still there but only at a certain rpm.....Now I am starting to notice all the other little things......those rear shocks are a little bouncy, and that door should be adjusted, that window is still rattling, ah well I don't expect it to ever end... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Get that syn out and ask for him to do it as he didn't ask for permission. Have him fill with proper fluid and DON'T pay for the syn!!
Unless of course he is a GOOD friend and then work out a deal.
don
 
His is a friend, not a GOOD one...but has been working on my cars for years, I have trust in him to do the job right, he's also the host of a local cable TV show "auto talk"....Upon looking at the bill it doesn't look like he charged much for the syn, it took 3.5 hours of labour to re tap the tube thing for the mount....So for now the syn is gunna stay, it seams to be running pretty smoothly, if it causes a problem I'll take it right back to him and get it fixed no charge(he's usually pretty good at correcting his own mistakes).
 
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Does it ever end? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

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In a way I hope not. I think the attention these cars require keep them in the hands of people that appreciate them and are willing to care for them.

I think more casual owners would simply discard them like the boring cars most of them drive now.
 
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