• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Weldinig in new floor pans

Share this page

C

Cutlass

Jedi Warrior
Offline
New floor pans are going in now. The issue is whether to weld them to the frame, outriggers and sills with a continuous bead (made up of course of multiple stitch welds) or just rely on stitch welds about every three inches? The old pans were welded less than every three inches. A continuous bead seems like overkill.
 
I would do the stitch welds .. every three inches sound good. You might consider making them a little longer than original. The floor pan gets a good amount of stress from the leverage of the seat and one of the welds on my floor pan broke near the seat attachment holes (not too bad I guess for 40 years of use /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Cheers,
John
 
It is called skip welding and I welded in all of my new floor pans to the frame and sills. I used a Miller wire gun and welded them a 4 on 12 that means 4 inches of weld and skip 12 inches and then weld 4 inches again. It looks good and uniform and then the pans are sealed with seam sealer. I welded 3 inches around each corner where possible.
 
Thanks. My welding terminologly deserted me for the moment. I'm using a tig for everything. Makes really good looking welds as long as conditions are good. I'm making each weld about an inch long with a couple of inches between them. Much more welding than what was there before.
 
Sure you can Tig them in I just use tig for other things like fuel tanks etc. mine were really welded in skimpy and I did much more than the factory did but be sure to weld around the corners.
 
Hey Cutlass,
The verticle seam at the sill on my 67 is spot welded. You can simulate a spot weld by drilling and plug welding. Should work well with a tig.
 
You'd think plug welding with a tig would work great. I tried it when attaching the rocker to the outer sill. As soon as the arc is established, the sill warps away from the rocker, making the weld impossible. It can't be clamped effectively, because of the construction of the inner/outer sills. If you've got a better idea, I'm all ears.
 
I see what you mean. I used a mig on my floor. It filled the hole nicely and I was able (with a light touch-up using a die grinder) to leave a slight indent like the spot weld. I don't have much experience with a tig.
One other thing: all the original seams under the car were seam-sealed AFTER paint. I thought that was unusual. I'm sure they're original so I duplicated it.
Have fun.
 
Back
Top