Welding ???

[SCguy]

I've never welded before, but seem to have the perfect little job to begin learning. (Thinking of taking a class this summer at the local community college) I need to weld the back plates to my new seat belts to my to the inside fenders.

So my question is can anyone recommend a mig welder possibly one I could buy at Sears and offer up a little advice? From what I've seen there are just too many options to ever begin to know what to buy. Ebay is alway a possiblity.

Thanks

 

[Bugeye58]

Send a PM to Aweman, a retired welder and forum member. He'll give you the straight skinny on what to get.
Jeff

 

[AweMan]

Larry:
I can recomend the Hobart handler series M.I.G.. The 160 series is what I use here at home for light welding.
{Body work}
Whichever welder make and model you choose to buy there are a couple of things to keep in mind.
#1 You will want the gas attachment. {so the welder can accomodate a gas bottle} there is welding wire that doesn`t require a shielding gas to weld. {not m y first choice for welding light bodywork} But will work providing you get a small enough guage wire. .020 .023 ETC. .035 is too hot for light guage welding!
The "Solid Core wire" requires a shielding gas, typicaly a 75/25 argon/Co2 mix. Although straight Co2 will work the drawbacks are that your welds will have more "Spatter" and be harder to control.
If you have a gas setup typicaly the flow meter should be set to around 15 cfm { to high causes turbulance in your weld} too low causes inadequate gas flow causing contamination of the weld.
#2 The second thing to keep in mind is parts availability {we welders call them consumables} contact tips, nozzles, drive rollers, and torch liners, all of which will need replacing at some point in time.
I recomend that you purchase extra contact tips at the same time you purchase the welder, get the size needed for the wiresize you plan to use. In fact an assortment of sizes is nice to keep on hand in case you decide to change wire size for different projects. The contact tips are typicaly what "Novice" welders will use the most of.
I recomend you read the other threads on welding on this forum. I believe all of the pertenant info you will need is already posted.
If you need aditional Information you can always send me a P.M., I will answer within a day or two. Usualy I check in daily.

 

[MDCanaday]

IMHO the Lincoln 135 is a fine choice for the 110 volt mig.I say this even though I have a Miller sidekick that I use daily....
Make sure you use a HD extension cord or none at all if possible. Light duty cords can ruin a good welder.
MD(mad dog)

 

[tomshobby]

When I taught metals processes at our local Tech College I had my students purchase a book from Miller, "Gas Metal Arc Welding". It was an excellent book to learn some basics and for troubleshooting welds. About 140 pages of easy to understand information.
It is from Miller Electric Mfg. Co in Appleton, WI, 54914

And pick AweMan's brain.

 

[tr8todd]

The lincoln 135 is a great little welder for the hobbiest. I have two of them. One is set up for flux core and one has a bottle. Most of the time I just use the flux core wire. I am welding in a new pan, rockers and a roll cage in an old beetle now. I just came in for a little break and some fresh air.

 

[TRMark]

I use a Hobart 175 (200 volt) with C25. I have built things as large as a trailer for hauling cars and as light as welding new rocker panel on my Lancia. If you are not going to build anything using heavy steel the smaller units will work fine.
The only other thing I would add is that you buy some nozzle gel, it keeps the spatter from sticking.

 

[AweMan]

Amen! On the anti spatter spray or dip. The dip is good for the nozzle alright, but the spray will work both for the nozzle and the part to be welded. Spraying the part to be welded makes it easy to clean any spatter off. Spreading the dip on the part you are welding is just a little messy hahahahahahaha.
<span style="color: #3333FF">And yes I recomend purchasing welding books as Tomshobby suggested also</span>

<span style="color: #FF0000">But NOT welding for DUMMIES</span> /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer.gif

 

[Guest]

Amen! On the anti spatter spray or dip.

Otherwise known as PAM, the stuff you cook with.

Larry, I bought a Miller Matic 135, 110V, use a auto-dark shield, good gloves and thick shirt, mixed gas, etc.

Comes in handy.

 

[YankeeTR]

I have had geat results with a Lincoln SP-100..I converted it to mig from a flux core machine...it worked great.

Two years ago I bought a Miller 175....handles a little heavier stock and also works great.

Stay away from Clarke and other Chinese machines...even some of the Italian ones...they are cheaply made and have little resale value. Parts availability is a problem. And they are not very good for the long haul.

I know many guys buy these machines with the excuse..."I only plan on doing a little ewelding". That's like buying a piece of plywood instead of a mattress 'cuz "I only sleep five hours at a time"...

 

[Guest]

I think the Lincolns sold in the Big Box stores is foreign made, I hate to say.

 

[AweMan]

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm I have to admit, i`ve never tried PAM cooking spray, antispatter sprays generaly contain silicone and dichloromethane {the propelent}. Dichloromethane is a carsinogen and <span style="color: #FF0000">MUST</span> be used in a well ventalated area. I don`t think i`d want to eat it. There are New anti Spatter sprays coming on the market that are claimed to be environtmentaly safe and safe for the welder as well. Here is a link to one article <span style="color: #3366FF">https://www.newmaterials.com/news/4588.asp</span>
<span style="color: #FF0000">Discaimer:
I have NO affiliate with any company concerning welding materials, machines, or parts.</span>

 

[Guest]

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm I have to admit, i`ve never tried PAM cooking spray, antispatter sprays generaly contain silicone and dichloromethane {the propelent}. Dichloromethane is a carsinogen and <span style="color: #FF0000">MUST</span> be used in a well ventalated area. I don`t think i`d want to eat it. There are New anti Spatter sprays coming on the market that are claimed to be environtmentaly safe and safe for the welder as well. Here is a link to one article <span style="color: #3366FF">https://www.newmaterials.com/news/4588.asp</span>
<span style="color: #FF0000">Discaimer:
I have NO affiliate with any company concerning welding materials, machines, or parts.</span>

When I bought my setup from Airgas, an old salt (or would that be slag) welder told me, as I was reaching for the spatter spray, just use Pam. He said that is all he ever used. And, he can cook his eggs in the morning......

 

[AweMan]

When I bought my setup from Airgas, an old salt (or would that be slag) welder told me, as I was reaching for the spatter spray, just use Pam. He said that is all he ever used. And, he can cook his eggs in the morning...... [/quote]

If it works, I guess it would be safer environmentaly and health wise to use.

For those interested, out of all of the welding equipment I have used over the years. I find Linde welding equipment to be by far superior to any. Although on the expensive side! <span style="color: #FF0000">AGAIN: NOT promoting Linde, Just giving an opinion.</span>

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi Larry,

I shopped around a lot last year and ended up with a Hobart 140 kit that included a decent little cart and the gas controls. Those items are sometimes separate expenses.

I added a storage cover, slag hammer, some spare supplies including extra tips, good gloves and a better helmet than what came with the kit. Got a great deal from one of the online sellers... maybe Northern Tools or Harbor Freight, I forget which. Free shipping was nice! It can be pricey since the welder is pretty heavy.

While shopping, one thing I heard over and over was that the Hobart wire feed tended to be better functioning or more reliable/less likely to jam than some other welders in the entry-level "consumer" range. I also specifically wanted a 110-120V welder for now. Otherwise I probably would have opted for a Hobart 180 for greater duty cycle and thicker material welding.

On arrival, one of the hinges and a control switch were broken on the Hobart... shipping damage. I called them direct and they had new parts to me the next day at no cost to me. Super fast service! They just asked me to return the broken parts to them, and provided a postage-paid envelope for that purpose.

I've only been using the 140 so far just with the flux core "gasless" wire such as was included in the kit. I think .030 or .035 was supplied. I had another roll on hand already, too, and can't remember which came in the kit. If changed to .020 or .023" wire, I believe the wire feed sleeve also needs to be changed to work right. Easiest way to do that would be just to get a second torch and cable/wirefeed/hose setup. There is some added cost to this though.

Flux core wire is a bit spattery and I plan to get the gas soon and switch to using solid wire/shielding gas instead, for nicer welds and better control on thinner sheet metal. I found a local supplier quoted about $100 for the initial small tank purchase and fill, cheaper refills after that (maybe $30?).

I've been using oxy/acetylene for many, many years and MIG/GMAW is a bit different, probably easier to learn initially but still needs some practice. I'd probably really benefit from taking a class, too. Good idea. Might even pay to wait to purchase after you have taken the class.

One thing I changed my mind about was welding aluminum. I'd originally planned to use the 140 for that too. It can be done, from what I understand, but I think I'll wait and get a spool gun welder especially for that purpose eventually. The problem is feeding aluminum wire all the way from the main compartment of most welders. Apparently that often jams. A spool gun, with a small spool of aluminum directly behind the torch head, works better with aluminum wire. Meanwhile, I can still weld aluminum with oxy/acetylene (special flux and goggles are required).

I'd love to have a TIG eventually, too, but am not holding my breath. I'll probably get a plasma cutter before I get a TIG. Both will have to wait until I win the Lottery, though.

Cheers!

 

[racingenglishcars]

I've tried aluminium in a spool gun and not been satisfied. It worked, yeah, but not well. The wire is way too soft and bunches up. The TIG is the way to go with aluminium. They really aren't that expensive. And yes I use the torch and special flux for doing aluminium at home.

I haven't seen anyone mention the absolute necessity of removing rust before welding (on steel). I use a Solar at home and Migatronic at the garage. They are a really nice and professional machine, though expensive (Danish made).

D.

 

[kc_doyle]

At this time I don't own a wire welder, however, I have used a hobart MIG (many years ago) and it was awesome on sheet metal as well as alum. All that I have now is a stick welder and that would be a bit strong for Sheet Metal.

 

[AweMan]

Although Larry never mentioned trying to weld aluminum the subject of welding aluminum with a M.I.G. has appeared several times in this thread.
Aluminum is rather difficult to weld with these 110V machines in the first place. As we all know it is a soft material and has a tendancy to bunch up or what we welders call "Birds nest". With a little patience practice and preserverance aluminum can be welded in the short arc process but not to a professional grade quality weld.
To be done right, <span style="color: #FF0000">aluminum M.I.G. wire</span> MUST be ran in a spray transfer process. 110v M.I.G.`s are not capable of utilising this process! The process involves using a higher voltage where the ampreage stays basically the same as it would be with the "Short Arc" process typically 18 volts to short arc and 20 or 21 volts to spray. 110V M.I.G. can not seperate the voltage from the ampreage like a professional M.I.G. designed for wire welding many different alloys can. Secondly when running aluminum wire through a M.I.G. a couple of things are needed. First 100% argon {NO Co2} secondly a push pull type gun or torch is desireable. Wire is fed out of the wire tractor via the drive rollers {Pushing the wire} then there is a seperate motor and set of drive rollers in the gun/torch head {pulling the wire}. <span style="color: #33FF33"><span style="color: #3333FF">Typically the cause of birds nesting is, clogged or dirty contact tip, clogged or dirty torch liner, drive rollers set too tightly, kinked torch hose or liner, worn or damaged guide tubes {in front and rear of the drive rollers}.</span></span> A short arc process is where the wire actually touches the base material to be welded causing a short hence providing the weld current and melting the filler wire into the weld area. Where as the spray arc process actually utilises a plasma to transfer the weld current this plasma melts the filler wire into fine globuels or droplets before it touches the base material, hence it is literaly sprayed into the weld area. Much hotter weld less chance of cold fusion and or contaminants, No smoke, No spatter what so ever! The welds actually if done correctly look like they were T.I.G. welded. And I might also mention every bit as good quality as T.I.G. welds.
Sorry Larry! I know you were not concerned with this info at this time. Mabe later you might be! My apologies!!

 

[AweMan]

I haven't seen anyone mention the absolute necessity of removing rust before welding (on steel).

D.

If you check some of my other threads on welding you will see that I emphasize cleaning the area to be welded thouroughly.
Not only of rust but also of mill scale and or any chemicaly induced skin on any metal, also called pickeling. To get a certification quality weld. Clean clean and clean, once you think it is clean enough, clean it again. No rust No scale No skin No oil No paint No dirt No dust. Just bright shiney metal then you are ready to weld it.

 

[Mkutz]

I just got a Hobart 140 from Northern Tool. They were and still running a special for $459 which includes the welding cart (a needed accessory in my opinion, which runs about $75 otherwise). I've just played around with it, no real work yet, but from what I see it is a good little unit.