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Welding to a rear axel tube. Can you?

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vping

vping

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While under the roadster, I noticed that one of the rebound straps was not there. The reason was the stud the is welded horizontally to the body of the axel tube is missing. I can fabricate a new one or cut off from my spare but can I weld it in place without doing damage to what is inside the tube, namely the axels and fluid?
 
Hello Vping,

certainly there will be no effect on the axle (shaft?) as it is a long way from the tube. I would imagine there will be some local burning off of the oil but I would not anticipate any real problem.

Alec
 
Moss sells the peg, ready to weld. No problem welding but make sure you don't have any fuel leaks! Keep a fire extinguisher handy.
 
If I'm doing the rear suspension bushings, I may make it a full out project. I also noticed a kink in one brake line. When I have it all down & out, I'll weld it, paint it and redo all the brakes. All freshly painted parts and a reassembly.
 
That's exactly what I did, only without the strap mount replacement. A quick brake pipe replacement turned into a complete rear end restoration.

Before and after...
 

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You POR'd everything right?
Did you take the leaves apart?
 
That axle was spray painted and the springs were replaced. I did POR15 the axle from, another car. Had I known about POR15 was back when I did the first one , I would have used it.
 
Ahh yes I see the lables now. Is replacing recommended over refurbishing?
 
Only if the springs are worn out. If the old springs are still holding the car as the proper height and there are no broken leaves, I would continue to use them. Modern replacements can be a real pain because htey're never matched properly.
 
I think it is still at the proper height but how would you tell for sure?
 
Measure from the ground to the side molding center. Someone double check me on this but I believe stock height for a CB car is around 13.5".
 
If you are arc welding a differential try to be sure the ground clamp is close to the weld and not where the current will go through a bearing as this will destroy the bearing. You guys may already know this but some of us learned it the hard way:smile:
 
Measuring from the ground to the CL of the molding is 25 1/4". From CL of wheel to CL of molding is 14 1/2".

Are you sure about the 13 1/2" Steve? Am I doing something wrong?

PW. That is good advice that I did not know. I will keep this in mind.
 
Oops, I meant from hub center to strip center. I'm not positive about the 13.5". My second thought was 14.5" but I just can't remember exactly. If it's where you want it then the actual number doesn't matter much.
 
So then if the 14 1/2 is good I am spot on. But wouldn't that number change depending on tire size? Or is that minimal?
 
True true now I have a visual. Duh. So I am within range. Good.
 
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