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Welding newbie

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that would be my choice - and the biggest compressor you can get (mine's too small - I have compressor envy /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif )
 
Regarding the compressor and small blast cabinet:

I am upgrading my compressor as I'm outfitting the new shop...going from 5.2 SCFM to 14 SCFM @ 90 PSI. I'm sure a lower capacity compressor would work, something in the 9-10 SCFM @ 90 PSI, but for the price difference I went with the larger unit; larger tank (80 gallon) and quicker refill time (3 cylinder). So, the compressor will run less often, for a shorter duration.

Of all the air tools I use, the sand blaster(s) are the most hungry for air. When in use, you are basically using a straight pipe (reduced through a nozzle of course) out of the tank. Yes, you occasionally trigger the gun, but not like you would with another tool like an impact wrench or hammer gun.

I have a small cabinet, a closed bottle type blaster, and a new open hopper type blaster. The bottle blaster is basically useless...more time spent fiddling with the flow handle (bottom of the tank) and the air supply valve...by the time you get everything in sync, the media is all gone and you have to open the bottle (bleed off all the air) and start over. The cabinet blaster works just fine with regard to blasting, but you just cant' see what you are doing. I have the tear off shields over the viewing window and they fog (from abrasive) very quickly. The biggest problem though is with the airborn particles (I've used glass beads and aluminum oxide) obscuring your view. I've hooked up a cyclone type vacuum to it and there's still too much flying around in there to see what you're doing. My understaning is that the larger cabinets present less of a problem.

So, I'm going to give the hopper blaster a try; I've used one in the past with good results...although you do go through a LOT of media.

Ray
 
Maybe the bottle blaster will work better with your new compressor. I've had good luck with my father's sand blaster. Of course, he has a compressor the size of Texas (he has a "more power" type of mentality). When I left my midget at his shop I came in one day and found him measuring it to see how easy it would be to get a small block chevy into it.
 
And if you use a blasting cabinet you do need to rig up one of Frank C's Bongs to capture sanding dust. A good time right to buy now, latest Sears add puts one of those 2 1/2 gallon mini shop vacs on sale for something like $20.00 next week. Perfect for providing suction for the bong. Plus does double duty in emptying the commode for one of those unpleasant chores of replacing the wax gasket.

I made the mistake of firing up the blast cabinet without the bong attachment and within 5 minutes my garage was coated with dust. Not something I will do again sithout bong attached and working.

Compressor again can't be big enough and do not even think of buying air hoses with 1/4" NPT fittings. Go for 3/8" or 1/2" hose and make sure NPT Fittings aren't cutting down airflow by introducing 1/4" obstructions. Shorter the air hose the higher performance of the air tool you are trying to connect. Lots of loss due to length of hose as well as those 1/4" NPT Fittings. I got rid of 100' of crappy cheap hose and 1/4" NPT and my 600 ft. lb. heavy duty impact wrench can actually now remove lugnuts.
 
Hello Donn,

"Spot welds, in this application, are "tougher" than line welds. They give a larger HAZ (heat affected zone) per distance of welding than a line weld, therefore stressing the HAZ less."

I would say that line welding is stronger, it has to be. Why else do competition cars have all the welds re welded, commonly known as 'Seam welding'

Spot welding suits the manufacturers as it is quick and adequate.

Alec
 
I got all my stuff from harbor freight, except the welder that I got at Sam's warehouse but it looks just like the cheap harbor freight ones. pratice, practice, practice with the welder. Yes flux core is messy but most of the time I am going to go over the welds with a grinder anyways or else the welds are in a place that no one will see. As long as it is strong is the main thing. I would love a tig welder but $$$. The compressor is a stand up 3hp, 21 gallon from harobr freight and it kept up well will painting the car and with all the air tools i have used. It runs about all the time when doing things like that, but that is ok as long as it keeps up. It was $169, its probably more than that now. Also I got a blast cabinet from them for $69 and you need an old vaccum cleaner to hook to it and alight for inside and it does alright.
 
Jim,
I'm not following the part about Frank C's Bong.

I had the cabinet hooked to a JET Tools 1 HP, 650 CFM dust collector; there is a paper element in the exhaust port of the cabinet to strain out the larger particles. The bags on the dust collector are 5 micron; nothing but air goes through. This it's the smaller JET unit I have on my flat bed sander in the wood shop; I also have JET's 1 1/2 HP, 1100 CFM unit that I use on my central dust system, primarily with the Delta Unisaw, but it was WAY too big to use.

Here's what the small unit looks like:

https://s7d2.scene7.com/is/image/WMHToolGroup/708640_main?hei=800&wid=800

I tried a small shop vac previously and could not tell any significant improvement.

So I guess I need to hear more about the magic bong...wow, flashbacks to college days!

Ray
 
Franks unit which he posted someplace uses a water filter, all home built. Keeps dust from the garage.
 
Oh...I remember that now...thanks.

Dust is not a problem...as I mentioned, the bag on the unit I was using is 5 micron. Problem is, in such a small enclosure, there is way more particulate bouncing around and it just obscures your view. I think a larger cabinet is the way to go.

Ray
 
I had the oppertunity a couple of weeks ago to use a professional size unit. Big enough to put one of our engines in it.

Still was hard to see after a few min. Boy they work great but I dislike them.
 
My uncle had a cylinder head shop. When I was 13, I worked there for a whole summer sandblasting heads and valves. You get used to it and can see OK. I had to change the plastic over the window 2-3x's a day.

Can't wait to get one, it's so cool to see something come out so shiney and new.
 
When using my father's blast cabinet, I found it easier to see if I turned off the garage lights. This reduced the glare, and made my pupils to dilate so that the light in the cabinet could be more effective.
 
Got my first welding experience yesterday on Bugsy. Not great results but since this is a patch panel, behind the A'Post, covered by A-post completely, and then covered by A-Post Skin no one will ever see it. Angle grinder covers a multitude of mistakes. Cogitation overnight allows insight into why certain parts of the weld were so crappy. Bad ground caused by weld contamination on the patch panel and the vice grip clamp the ground was attached to. All of a sudden I see a need to drag out the old set of jumper cables to make sure good ground on both pieces of metal that are being joined. Oh the things I learned yesterday.

Onward and upward. Test fitting of A-Post with Door attached commences today.
 
I often joke that may welding is only marginally improving, but my grinding skills are second to none.

Clean metal. Very important.
 
Trevor Jessie said:
I often joke that may welding is only marginally improving, but my grinding skills are second to none.

Clean metal. Very important.
Click to expand...

LOL! that's the same way I feel about my welding.

Just another thought on a MIG (with gas... which I highly recomend) is to check the want ads. It's common for guys to by a 110 unit then a few years later step up to a 220. 110 is perfectly fine for automotive body work. I picked up a good used Lincoln unit with gas set up for about $250. It's been great, as infinite heat and wire speed.

AND>>> Definitely get the autodarkening helmet. They are pretty cheap at HF and will help your welding skills tremendously.

AND>>> Another good book is "Welder's Handbook" by Richard Finch. I've seen it at Lowes near the machines. Great basic book for $10-12. Highly recommended.

good luck!
 
Jim_Gruber said:
Got my first welding experience yesterday on Bugsy. Not great results (...)
Click to expand...

Jim, feel free to post a few pix (pre-grinding)... I'm sure you may get some useful tips. Already a lot of good advice in this thread.
 
I finally bought a gasless MIG welder at Sears (Craftsman), it may not the best brand but it did come with a 3 year warranty and a one year return policy.
Sears mig welders
I'll show some pictures of the welds as soon as I can. Though my first few welds are quite embarrassing. :nonod:
 
Trevor Jessie said:
...When I left my midget at his shop I came in one day and found him measuring it to see how easy it would be to get a small block chevy into it...
Click to expand...

Interesting! When I was young and dumb (long time ago, thankfully!) I bought a poorly executed 300 hp 327 ci Chevy small block with a Bugeye wrapped around it! The thing sure would smoke some 14" rear tires though it couldn't find its own way around a corner! LOL!

Would I do it again? Yes, but I'd engineer and build it myself this time, and likely with a V6 instead of the V8.

'Ave a good day!

Tim
 
EastBoundJoe said:
I finally bought a gasless MIG welder (...) I'll show some pictures of the welds as soon as I can. Though my first few welds are quite embarrassing.
Click to expand...

Looks pretty good! You might try making a welding cart for it, as your first project! Lots of free plans on the internet, and it sure is easier than carrying it around by the handle! Just a suggestion, you might want to make allowances for a bottle, even if you're going to use it "gasless" initially. Eventually, an inexpensive regulator set and a rented bottle would allow you to use it with even more ease!
 
Or Tractor Supply Welding Cart I spotted down there yesterday $89.95, HF usually cheaper.

As far as welds, already downsized to 24 gauge wire instead of 30 gauge. One panel I was working on experienced burn through when I left the "torch" there too long. Hidden panel, never be seen, and it was really thin stuff I burned thru. Need to keep head close to work to benefit from gas shield. Any further away than 3/4" seems like losing gas shielding and spattering occurs.

Discovered also need for wire brush in making sure area to be welded stays clean as well as need for nmaking sure both pieces being welded get separate ground connections.

After a few hours at it things are getting better. Will be back to the "torch" this weekend, maybe even some time on Thursday. Did discover in fitting A-Post that there is no way to trial fit door gaps with windshield in place. Because of Vent windows I could not get the door to move forward far enough for rear gaps to be properly set. Windshield now loose on car and will have time on Thursday to play with A Post location on DS.
 
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